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At minimum, I'd say you have 1 questionable plug wire...
Right,,,So I did the "spark show test" cause it is good and dark out but it seems that any issue that may be present will remain hidden LOL. I think I will change out the wires just to be safe and get the heat socks as well.
Sounds like a spiral core wire that got pulled on too hard by the wire, not the boot. Spiral cora are typical carbon core (high resistance) with a solid wire spiraly wrapped around it (low resistance). I had the same issue and the car would randomly show the missfire code. I couldn't buy one wire, so I bought a new set. Mine were mSd and were old and on the car when I bought it.
For piece of mind, replacing is a good idea.
Will be interesting if this fixes the issue. Mine never had the bog thing going on.
Sounds like a spiral core wire that got pulled on too hard by the wire, not the boot. Spiral cora are typical carbon core (high resistance) with a solid wire spiraly wrapped around it (low resistance). I had the same issue and the car would randomly show the missfire code. I couldn't buy one wire, so I bought a new set. Mine were mSd and were old and on the car when I bought it.
For piece of mind, replacing is a good idea.
Will be interesting if this fixes the issue. Mine never had the bog thing going on.
Ron
It is my next step. The bog happens at low RPM cruising, 1800 rpm and that area, but once I tap the gas pedal it goes away, and I have to clear the code . Now under a load she acts like the Nasty C5Z she is LOL.
Plugs, sox and die electric grease ordered...Hope this is the issue. I am fairly confident it is and whats the worst that happens,,,,I have a new set of plug wires.
So I pulled6 of the 8 plug wires and checked the OHM's. all but 1 read 34.00 the first one I pulled read 300.00. Any thoughts??
If you have Stock GM Plugwires,, they normally read 250 ohms - 750 Ohms... Are you sure that the reading was 34 ohms?? Stock GM LS1/LS6 wires are BLACK with black boots and 7mm wires.
The IGNITION SWITCH does not have a ground wire.. Its just SIX internal switches that supply battery voltage to specific circuits when the ignition key is switched ON... One of those circuits is the KEY "IN the Ignition switch or KEY OUT" of the Ignition switch circuit.\ so it just FIVE 12 VDC outputs.
If,, any of the five switch contacts are damaged, it can cause issues.
I will take the bad reading wire apart and show results once the hot wires come in. I double triple and quadrupal checked... The 1 read 300 the others read 34. ohms
I already ordered the hot wires some die electric grease and coolsox. They get here thursday. I drive to work again tomorrow so we will see if she is still being tempermental!
So It was raining today as I drove to work. She bogged a couple times and thres the same codes. I turned the defroster off and turned the traction contrlol off had no more issues till I was turning into the dentists office...On the way home it do not do it once (no rain)...Ugh
Same issue today I got a HVAC code and the 0300, I cleared the PCM first no change, Then I cleared the HVAC code, it turned the blower motor off and their was a noticable difference in the cars idle and drivability...................WT*, Wires come in today so I will change them out and repost. I hate having an electricle isse, I am sure it is a simple fix but finding it is the problem!!!
It's beginning to sound like you will need to be scanning the car when the problem occurs. With either a Tech 2 or something like HP Tuners, EFI Live etc.
Same issue today I got a HVAC code and the 0300, I cleared the PCM first no change, Then I cleared the HVAC code, it turned the blower motor off and their was a noticable difference in the cars idle and drivability...................WT*, Wires come in today so I will change them out and repost. I hate having an electricle isse, I am sure it is a simple fix but finding it is the problem!!!
The DIC only shows P0300 no matter what cylinder is having issues, you need either a cheapy Actron type code reader that will tell you the exact cylinder or go to Autozone and have them read it. It would be interesting if it corresponds to the cylinder with the different ohm reading.
It's beginning to sound like you will need to be scanning the car when the problem occurs. With either a Tech 2 or something like HP Tuners, EFI Live etc.
Ron
It is comming down to that. I am trying to be frugal but in the end I think this nickle and dime run down will cost the same.
I know these cars have an odd spot where the ECM rests behind the Passanger tire and that had some issues with battery acid dropping down on them. I wonder if water got on it and is causing a short in one of the wire connections. I have a busy weekend ahead of me. Wires, sox and dielectric grease tonight though.
It's easy to access the PCM, so you might have a look and see. You can also remove the battery, then the battery tray (4 bolts) and have a look at the wiring.
It's easy to access the PCM, so you might have a look and see. You can also remove the battery, then the battery tray (4 bolts) and have a look at the wiring.
Ron
Thanks Brother . I will be starting this project tomorrow.