So I’m looking to replace the front and rear suspension on the vette. It has 120,000 miles on it and she’s feeling pretty sloppy. What specific components need to be replaced and is there a way to manage this on a tight budget?

For example, do the control arms need to be completely replaced or is it possible to simply swap out the bushings? Same with the ball joints….looks like they come as part of the knuckle?

I’m guessing this could get expensive fast at $250/part if there are easy fixes (like swapping out bushings).

What say you?

 

You can change the ball joints at about $50 a pop. The bushings can be replaced with poly or spherical joints, poly is about $400 for a kit but spherical will cost more than replacing the arms at about $2k for the kit. If you don't like or want poly bushings then you have to replace the arms.

 

Well,,,,,,,,,,,,, Theres GOOD news and BAD news.. First,,, the GOOD news.. There are aftermarket parts that are better and less money than OEM. For example:

Wheel Bearings. Most autoparts stores carry TIMKEN at reasonable prices.

Bushings- If you want rubber OEM,, ther are expensive and you get the entire arms. Check for aftermarket and look at using poly bushings. Companies like VETTE BRAKES,, ZIP Products etc.. I use ZIP and have bee very happy with their products.

Sway Bar end links- Look for replacement METAL end links if you still have the plastic end links.

Sway Bar bushings- Look for poly sway bar replacement bushings.


What suspension do you have??? FE1 Z51 ZO6 F-45 F-55 ????

You can save money by doing the repairs your self and even more if you source out the less expensive parts.

As for shocks,, if you close to stock ride height, upgrade to C6 ZO6 Shocks or bilstenes (SP??)

Bill

 

Hey guys! Thanks for the responses. I tried to post a response earlier but the forum (or my internet) was down. Regardless, I had the "front wheel speed sensor" problem that Bill detailed out a few years back. I "tweaked" the connectors when I did my last brake job and although they are much better, they arent 100%. So with that in mind looks like ill go after new wheel bearings.

All the work will be done in my garage. Are there any special tools needed? I would assume a ball joint separator? Anything else?

I have the F45 suspension but I have a buddy with a tech2 to turn it off. So im looking at C6 z51 sway bars and C6Z06 shocks.

Looks like i need
-front wheel speed sensors
-ball joints
-poly bushing kit
-C6Z51 swaybars and end links
-C6Z06 shocks
-rear knuckles (includes wheel speed sensors?)

This looks like about $2K...maybe slightly less.

Is there any benefit to redoing the steering rack?

Thanks again guys!

 

Bilstein HD's for stock height, Sports for lowered....so Ive heard...

 

OP, you should check out Pfadt racing's site. They sell a complete suspension rebuild kit, sleeves and all. This will replace everything and bring back more performance than you ever had.

 

The wheel bearings are a sealed unit very similar front and rear. They come with the wheel speed sensor built in.

You don't replace the uprights unless you want to buy new ones which come with the new upper ball joint installed. Ball park prices are as follows;
$400 - Pfadt poly bushing kit
$220 - Moog ball joints
$210 - C6Z51 sway bars & bushings
$300 - Bilstein Sport shocks
$110 - sway bar end link
$700 - 4 wheel bearings

Ya, I'm seeing $2k plus the tie rod ends. I have no idea what they're worth.

As a side note, I wouldn't just change bushings or ball joints unless they seem worn. Changing the shocks and sways will likely make a huge difference.

I drilled and tapped my ball joints for grease fittings a few years ago. I don't plan on changing them.

 

First thing, before you do anything else, is to upgrade the sway bar and replace the stock end links with metal ones.

This will make the biggest difference, is easy to do, and bang for the buck is great if you go with Hotchkis Sways or something comparable...bout $500 for bars and links and your car will feel night and day better

From there I chose to do the hard stuff first...like put poly bushings in the control arms...a big PITA DIY job...not technically hard to do, just very time consuming...which is the reason I did it first to get is out of the way. Costs anywhere from $100 to $400 depending on which poly bushings you go with. Some have the metal bits fitted to the bushings already, others you have to cut the old metal bots from your old rubber bushings and re-use them, after about two hours of that dirty job you will wish you got the more expensive bushings!

I also did an aluminum DRM bushing for the steering rack, is cheap, $40, but took a whole weekend...was worth it though as it will only ever have to be done once, now there is no slop in the steering...no 1 inch play in the center of the wheel turn.


after getting the harder to do DIY stuff outa the way, then look at some Bilstein Sport shocks, or if your budget allows, Coilovers.

Personally I like to get the cheaper but harder stuff outa the way first.

1. sway bars and metal end links (easy to do)
2. Poly control arm bushings. (cheap, not tech difficult but tedious)
3. Steering rack bushing (same as # 2)
4. Upgraded shocks (few hundred bucks and easy) or Coilovers ($$$ but easy)

Also, better brake pads...I got some really good advice early on...upgrade all the contact points...

Makes the car feel a lot better.

I drove my car and felt what felt the most sloppy and fixed that first.

I did the MGW short throw shifter because the stock one felt so sloppy

Got a thicker padded steering wheel deal (suprising how much of a difference that made for $20)

then did the stuff listed above but have not done coilovers yet

A good alignment is crucial, but stiffer sway bars will make the biggest immediate difference.




I just put in some Bimarco Futura racing seats and will do a write up very soon, another "contact point" improvement that made a big improvement.




In my own personal opinion, doing coilovers etc before changing the bushings and sway bars is like putting lipstick on a pig. Just my opinion.

 

DRM makes an aluminum steering rack bushing, you can just replace it and the rack will be fine...it only has the one rubber bushing on the passenger side.

I recommend it. For $40 and a few bruise knuckles, and a few curse words bandied about, its worth it.

let me know if you want to do that one, I can walk you through my mistakes and save ya a half day of cursing lol

(the bushing doesn't fit well but the right "massaging" in the right spots makes it go in better )

 

You need to add a CROWBAR to the list.. Its for prying the grin off your face the first time you drive it hard with a real suspension.

I had a F45 in my 98 coupe. TRUST ME,,,,,,,,, Your going to enjoy an entirely new ride!!!!

The front and rear hubs are a unit and contain the sensors:

FRONT:







REAR (center is open for the CV output shaft)

 

The car has had metal end links since 30K miles....so they are getting replaced regardless. Remember, Im trying to do this on a budget (AKA best bang for the buck). So things like C6Z51 sway bars seem like a good deal for the price.

As for the slop Im talking about....the slop has increased more and more as the car has gotten older. I mean...its literally 16 years old at this point so its expected. It didnt used ot feel as sloppy so if im going in and doing suspension work, i might as well go all the way and fix it so its good for another 100K miles.

Thanks for the info guys...i think I have a pretty good feel for what is needed and the cost....

Bill,
You never disappoint with high res pics...NICE! Those are the wireharness connectors i played with when i did my brake job....