Hello,

Newer owner to a 2004 Coupe Auto and looking to add some bolt-on performance parts. I've always considered the typical upgrade path to be intake and exhaust as first steps (beyond making sure the car is well-maintained of course).

I'm getting somewhat discouraged/confused around intakes though. Seems the more I read here on the forums the more I get confused.
The absolute best forum thread I have found thus far is here, specifically the 3rd post by Dave68.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ke-for-c5.html

When it comes to my car, I don't want to chop up the factory shroud and don't want to have to worry about sucking up water. I also don't want to incur additional costs to have the car tuned after installation. With that said, I've come to settle on the Halltech Venom II and the SLP Blackwing. Although there are still reasons for me to consider the Vararam VB-R2.

What I continue to get tripped up on though is if an intake is even worth buying? I drive my 'Vette daily in a very short 10 minute commute. All stop and go and never more than 50mph. Based on the forum link I posted above, I would never really get any benefit (and in fact lose HP) if I were to use the Halltech Venom II or Blackwing. But then I read about the Vararam and worry about water being sucked in. I'm not a fan of the mesh fog light screens either.

I'm about ready to say screw it and move on to an exhaust and never bother with an intake at all.

Not sure what I'm expecting as responses to all this, but I know I DON'T want people to simply say get 'X' intake without some sound reasoning as to why. Personal opinions are great, but I'm looking for more data driven responses.

 

Couple of additional thoughts/questions I came up with while doing more searching/reading of forum posts.

1. Is a MAF relocation beneficial for an otherwise stock vehicle? Both the Halltech and the Vararam w/powerduct offer this.
1a. Will this cause lean codes?

2. Assume I end up with a Vararam...does a screened MAF do the same as the Powerduct but cost me less?

3. Does the lower ambient air really matter on a daily driver that goes less than 7 miles back and forth to work and will never drag race? I should mention, that I was also looking to *possibly* remove the air dam since it scrapes my driveway every time I pull out/back in.

Boy, never thought I would have to think this much for a seemingly simple intake. Perhaps I am overthinking this whole thing, or I never thought about them enough on previous cars!

 

WELL<<<< Exhaust should only be changed for the sound value as the most you will see performance increase wise on a mostly stock engine is approx 5-10 HP.

You stated that you did not want to retune. Sad part about that statement is,, any mod that you add that doesn't affect the tune isn't going to net you much of an overall increase in performance.

A blackwing will get you approx 12 hp. Anything that you do to the MAF,, will cause you to need a retune. When you add nod that increase air flow thru the engine, You will see a pretty big hit in fuel efficiency/economy. Retuning can bring the loss back and in some cases gain fuel efficiency and more power.

What are your HP increase Desires/GOALS?? That will really determine what you need..

BC

 

Thanks for the reply. Understood on the exhaust. Sound value is what I'm willing to pay for, never questioned the HP increase on that.

I'm not really concerned with making gobs of HP. Per my original post, intake and exhaust (cat-back, maybe X-pipe) are about all I plan to do with this car. Just a little extra to wake the car up and give it a nice rumble. If all I make is 20-25 HP total, great. I mod for the personalization, not to make the most HP. If money was no object, it would be a different story.

I guess I understand that a tune is desirable to extract the maximum HP/fuel efficiency from a component, but rarely in my past have I heard a need to do a retune with simple intake and exhaust bolt-ons. I'd like to learn more about this for the C5. With one of my previous cars, I did have it tuned...but it was only after I installed a bigger turbo, larger injectors, larger fuel pump, big front mount intercooler, intake, downpipe, replaced catalytic with a straight pipe, and then full cat-back. But maybe I need to better understand how accessible it is to be done for these cars. I wouldn't be opposed to it if it were reasonably priced and was done one time after I'm done with my desired mods. So THANK YOU...the re-tune doesn't have to be a deal breaker anymore.

 

if I were you I would go with a "true" CAI system and a set of headers with a complete exhaust system then get a good mail order tune.

 

1st No matter what you read most all the CAI are about the same-- 8-12 RWHP--The rest is purely sales and myth---
Ram air is a hottly debated issue--but most all agree that below 100 MPH there is NO ram air affect---I would be most concerned whether or not your CAI needs to be CARB cerified to get past the smog poilce
questions:
1. Anytime you re-position the MAF it will read incorrectly and require a retune --No benefit to moving it closer or further away---just more tuning and work for your tuner
2. It's NOT a screen----It's a "stream straightener" Best advice--if it came with a screen--leave it in---Your MAF again will read incorrectly if you take it out--and will require a retune--AND most likely it will NOT make any more HP even if you retune it--
3. Any couplers that fit are OK--Just make sure they are not cheap or crumbly so they might pop off
4. You can't change the ambient temperature---What it is is what it is-- The issue is that the IAT sensor becomes heatsoaked from underhood temps and reads incorrectly--It may be only 60* outside and your IAT will read 115* in traffic because it is heatsoaked--and will take 5-7 miles of driving to cool down---
At say 115* the ECM may pull out 7* of timing---that's huge !! These cars only have 19-24* of total timing anyway so removing 7* is taking away 1/3 of your timing--Some people re-locate the IAT sensor to avoid heatsoak---However this isn't the best cure---The best way to fix it is to have your tuner de sensitize the IAT deduct tables
NO on the air dam removal--------The air dam helps scoop air into your radiator to cool the engine---I would never change anything that could cause it to overheat !!!!

 

tblu92: Thank you for all the explanations in response to my questions. You certainly helped clear up some thoughts/concerns.

First and foremost...I will NOT remove the front air dam. I'd rather deal with the scrape than an overheated engine.

Based on your explanations then, for my car and my needs, a Blackwing or Vararam w/o the powerduct are my best options. Not only do neither mess with the MAF positioning, but they are both on the less expensive end of the deal.

 

Tblu92 is correct. (Hey Tom)

I have a VaraRam (it was on the car when I bought it) and from data logs I take while driving, the IAT run at ambient as soon as the car is moving. Fortunately, I didn't have to install mine, I hear it is a bit of a pain.

Anyway, anytime you mess with the airflow into the MAF it needs to be recalibrated (Tune)

I also used a powerduct.....and I left the MAF in the stock position. Whatever air bridge was on my car was hacked and ruined by the previous owner, so I bought the 97-2000 version and some silicone tubing and made it all work. Your stock stuff will be perfect.



Too bad you don't live close to portland oR, i have 2 X-pipes I'd let you have your pick for free.....one works with the stock cats etc.

Ron

 

For what you describe as your use, why do anything?
Maybe throw a catback on for better sound seems like it would do ya.
Reconsider the tune though, I understand it'll do wonders for a stock auto....

 

My car came with a vararam. It was throwing CEL because of it.
Pretty common to need a tune after intakes

 

I also have an '04 Coupe with auto. I bought a Volant CAI with a carbon fiber air bridge/duct. My second purchase was a Corsa Extreme with an "X" pipe which almost completely eliminates the popping sound when I back off the gas peddle. The sound is fantastic and there is absolutely no drone in the cabin at any speed. Go to the Corsa site and watch the videos. Also, Corsa has excellent customer service and the reps will ask you questions and help you make the right decision on an exhaust. They will also explain the benefits of the "X" pipe. It was worth the extra money to me.

 

That is a lot of money for something as arbitrary as sound.

 

I have driven my car around in the rain with the Vararam system and have had no problems. Man up. Buy it. Make power. Be happy. Move on...

 

2 options,

1. Spend 700-1500 on a catback and CAI, gain 5-10whp

2. Spend 700-1200, swap the cam/valvesprings.........GAIN 35-55whp

Both above options are based on you doing the install and tuning.

As typical in life, the best results are from the higher effort actions taken.

 

Did you read how the OP uses his car? Based on that, he could throw on a catback exhaust for the "thrill of the sound" and a K&N or Green air filter in the stock box or a Z06 box for the "ability to say he increased air flow." Or nothing at all. Why bother with the rest unless his driving requirements change dramatically.

 

Thanks for all the responses and opinions. I'm leaning towards the Blackwing. Seems straightforward enough, not expensive on my wallet, and as others have posted--for my purposes it seems right. I agree with some of you as well, perhaps none at all is right for me. Save the money and put it towards something else altogether.

And I will heed the advice on the tuning. I think I was being a bit too closed minded with regards to this. Thank you for helping me see the light more.

 

Might be, but a lot of guys do it.....