I was asked to resubmit this as a new thread:

Just installed a Dual Cone Cold Air Intake System and immediately got an Engine check light on. Will the computer readjust itself to the new intake after a while or do I need to retune?

 

Recheck all your connections for any plugs you might have forgot to hook up. How did the car run when you started it?

 

READ & POST the DTCs

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

 

The car ran fine except for overheating but no engine check light for that, I changed the Thermostat for that and at the same time installed the intake system, that's when I got the check engine light. When I get home from work, I am going to use the trouble code procedure above and list my DTC's

 

Easy fix. Go to halltech site. Get the honeycomb air flow straightener.. or what ever they call it..40 or 50 bucks..goes before the maf and keeps the air turbulence to a straigh flow..i had same problems.. not a light since..i have the blackwing

 

Last week ordered the Halltech Honeycomb™1/8" Cell Laminar Flow Straightener, hope it doesn’t take too long to get here, they are hard to get a hold of. I had my codes read and it came up p0172 and p0175 lean readings twice on bank one and two, it also flagged the MAF. Hopefully this Straightener will straighten out the problem.

 

A leak in your pvc system can also set these codes. It it very common for the hoses to corrode and develop small holes or cracks. Much cheaper to fix and you won't need the "Honeycomb™1/8" Cell Laminar Flow Straightener".

 

You are from Bahama, NC; I know where that is, I live in Maryland now but originally from Durham. I already ordered the part, but I will check the pvc system also, thanks!

 

Let us know when you check the codes, it's most likely a lean code. Getting it retuned will fix that for you, as well as capitalize on your current mods to make it run as best as possible.

 

Already did, the Codes are p0172 and p0175 twice on banks one and two, it is also flagging the MAF.

 

I had light when i bought my car.took 2 months before someone on forum told me about the screen. No more engine light. Dealer wanted me to put stock box on before they would check it. Two more shops and no help..the screen poof it was all over

 

After having my codes read this morning the guy also reset them. I left to go out at lunch and no codes were showing up. I was keeping my fingers crossed that the PCM had worked out the mixture. After stopping by the carwash, I started my car back up again and the engine check light came back on. Decided to drop by Auto Zone to get a quick reading. Codes were: p0171 and p0177

Troubleshooting P0171:
(Fuel trim bank one condition) the powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Probable cause:
- If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (Mass Air flow) sensor
- Oxygen sensor
- Ignition misfire-repair
- fuel injector prolblem


Troubleshooting P0177:
- The PCM has determined that the imput from the fuel composition sensor is out of range. (Flex fuel Vehicle only)

 

04Blackice

You removed the screen in the MAF?

 

Didn't touch the maf. I just bought the halltech screen which goes just before the maf and it fixed my engine light problem..same thing as the light would go on then off then back on.

 

And he is gettinv the light after cai install. Mine had blckwing and engine light when i bought it. So by luck a forum member told me to install that haltech screen. And my light stoped coming on.

 

This is the same thing right, (Halltech Honeycomb™1/8" Cell Laminar Flow Straightener)

 

Sounds like it. About 50$ like a honeycomb made of aluminum

 

Just waiting for mine to come in

 

Cant go to there site right now.but it will say eliminates you check engine light do to the lean codes caused by air turbulence causeed by the after market cai. For the c5 some get engine lights some dont. But that thing does work.

 

Thats it, can't wait until it arrives, thanks