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* Front Cover seal
* Melling Hi Vol Oil pump
* ARP Damper Bolt
* Crank Pin (may go FI in future)
* LS2 Chain
* After market Damper
* ??? anythingelse???
Bill: Do you have more infor on the steering rack bushing?
My balancer has been wobbling for a while now. Yeterday I changed the oil and noticed oil on the pan leading up to the harmonic balancer. I have concluded that the seal in leaking. I intend to replace the balancer but want to inquire if it makes any difference where I get the balancer - GM - Autozone or others. Any suggestions?
I recently did a timing cover and waterpump replacement due to leaks in both and I changed everything I could get my hands on while I was in there including belts, hoses, tensioners, timing cover and gasket, timing chain, front seal, crank pulley, crank bolt (w/ ARP bolt) and thermostat.
I recently did a timing cover and waterpump replacement due to leaks in both and I changed everything I could get my hands on while I was in there including belts, hoses, tensioners, timing cover and gasket, timing chain, front seal, crank pulley, crank bolt (w/ ARP bolt) and thermostat.
THIS!
Just made no sense to me to be that far into it and not change everything.
An internet search has Harmonic Balancers ranging from $100 to $450! This car is a daily driver with 160k+ miles on it. I intend to keep it for a while longer.
I want a pully that will keep me from having to replace it in the next year or two. So, is the Autozone part sufficient?
I'd think the Autozone one would be a generic OEM replacement, of uncertain origin/quality. I would go with a Powerbond. They're made in Australia, and are much better than OEM for a reasonable amount of Corvette tax.
Great advise as always. I have an appointment with my local corvette shop to have the pulley replaced with a Powerbond, along with the front seal and the steering rack bushing. They quote $700 labor and parts.
I noticed a sqeaking and an upon investigating the noise I noticed the pulley was visibly wobbling, maybe 3 or 4 mm. I have ~146K on the motor, so, no real surprise.
You can do a couple things to confirm pulley failure:
1. Place a mark on the pulley, outside edge toward center, across both pieces of the pulley. Then go drive the car hard. Then check to see if the mark is still a single unbroken line. If the pulley is slipping the line is no longer be a single line.
2. Visually inspect the rubber part of the pulley looking for surface cracks/deterioration.
You will not be able to feel any slop in the pulley, a failed pulley will be as solid to the hand as a non-failed pulley.