I have a 98 Conv. I knew I had an ignition switch issue so for the last few months I just left the key in the car and it worked just fine. It never sat outside and was secure with the top up and doors locked when I had it out. Today I pulled the key out and when I replaced it back I got the "Service Column Lock message" and now it starts but will not move past a craw. It has had the recall years back. I just bought a replacement lock switch and key off of ebay. Are there good pictorial instructions about replacement and reprogramming available in here? I saw a few sets of instructions that seem above my head without pictures. Thanks for your help.. Rick

 

The IGNITION SWITCH and the KEY LOCK CYLINDER are one piece but TWO different repairs. You can remove the Key Cylinder from the switch. Why do you think you have an ignition switch issue and had to leave the key in the ignition?

The issue that your are having is a result of the COLUMN LOCK.

TRY THIS:

Recharge the battery. Pull up and CLEAR ALL THE DTCs!!!

Reinsert the key and turn the ignition ON and listen for the Column Lock Motor in the Steering Column to extract the bolt

See if the column is unlocked and you can turn the steering wheel

OR

See if you get the pull key message

Here is how you read the DTCs:

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.



Bill

 

Here is a post that explains the ignition switch:

-C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

 

Did all you said. Nothing seems to make a difference. I wish I had just left the key in it. All codes reset, strong battery, starts and runs great, just wont move. Service column lock message and pull key wait 10 seconds message.

 

Check the BCM Fuse that powers the and make sure that it is getting power and isnt blown or loose in the holder:

Here is the Late Model 03 Column Lock





Here is the early 97-98 Column Lock:

 

I checked the fuses numbered 9 143 19 22 23 25 29 47 was blank and 50. All working and tight. I pulled the column lock relay and will try to find one today. There are not five wires on mine? There are 4 one of which is purple one orange and a couple smaller yellow color wires? I have a 98 conv automatic. My relay has 4 prongs on the inside of the switch.. It is gray in color. made in Canada KC29 on the outside and some schematic with the numbers I cannot make out. The car only has 35K on the mileage. Thanks for your help.

 

Hi Bill, I rep[laced the column lock relay this morning but nothing changed

 

Rick

The relay that you replaced was the Theft Deterrent Relay!!

 

Please follow the DTC reading guide and post up all the DTCs that you have.
If there are a TON of DTCs, CLEAR THEM ALL and then try to start the engine. If it doesnt start, without turning off the ignition, immediately read the codes and post up what comes up.

 

I took my key to a Chevy dealer and they tested it in an ohm key reader. The key read fine when inserted but when you turned the key in the reader to simulate a start the key showed failure or error. I replaced the key with a #5 ohm key. Car did not read the key at first but after a few times putting it in and out of the switch it finally read it and I heard the lock disengage. I left the key in the car. I just do not trust it. Do I need to install a column by pass switch in your opinion. The recall was done a few years back. Thanks Bill. Rick

 

After MANY years and MANY miles on my 98 MN6 Coupe, I said to my self.. COLUMN LOCK BY PASS,,,,,,, Who needs a STINKING Bypass....:rock :

Went to Carlisle and getting ready to head back to CT and BLAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was stuck in the car wash area.. Lucky for me, I was able to beat, kick, twist and cuss it to work one more time..

So,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If you want to trust Mr Murphy ( and you KNOW he always wins when you least want him to) Its up to you!!

I would get one YESTERDAY!!!

 

Hi Bill...Sounds like a plan if I get the car back. Tonight while out at the local eating establishment the car let me down. I put the key in and nothing. I mean nothing worked. The only code I remember was BCM something that indicated no comm. I called a wrecker and had it towed to a dealer. Im kinda at a loss. It gave low fuel, service eng soon, low tire pressure etc. No power to windows but door locks worked. Its like the BCM loss communication with the rest of the car. When I parked it it was running perfectly.

 

Rick,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, before you get the word from the STEALEARSHIP that you need to pay 1000-1500 BUCKOS for a new BCM,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, call me.

I have the answer to your issue. Its a simple fix and its FREE!!

Sounds just like a door wiring harness connector issue. Thats FREE to fix!

Bill

 

How do I call you Bill? Number? Thank you for your offer to help..

 

I found the thread on the door connectors. I took loose the accordion and unplugged the two connectors. They looked fine. All the pins and females were straight and no corrosion. I looked for wear on the wires and found nothing. Just a lot of original orange covered tape I guess it is covering the wires. Looked all factory. I put it all back and nothing changed. Still dead. The gages work as do the door locks but nothing else. The door chime does not even work. Still have a lot of flashing messages like nothing is communicating. Oh, I CANCANCELLED THE WRECKER because the dealers gate was closed and locked. The car is still sitting.

 

Any luck???

 

The floor carpet seemed a hair damp but nothing real obvious. I did not see any issues with bad connectors. On a side note about 3 or 4 months ago I had to replace the heater motor. It locked up. Could that have been a result of the car not draining AC water? Is there a link for me to look at how to ck for ac condensation drainage. Thanks Bill.

 

If you had a rusty frozen blower motor, I can pretty much tell you that your BCM is having issues..

Recommend that you pull the board out and make sure that it doesnt have any corrosion deposits on it.

The drain is inside the eng compartment. Look on the passengers side fire wall directly rear of the cylinder head and you will see the 90 deg rubber drain fitting.

Pop off the fitting

 

Thank you Bill. I'm headed out of town in the morning. I wish I had more time to work on the car. Right now it is just annoying. I do appreciate your advise more than you know... Rick

 

I have the situation where the ignition key won't turn and I need to remove the ignition switch assm. Problem being that with the key not turning I can't get the transition out of park. I have the center stack cover loose and ready to come out, but it can't clear the shifter. Any way to get the shifter out of park?