Best cam for torque
auto conversion done I had a 228/232 on a 110 and could never get
it tuned where it didn't stall at stoplights or rpm's jump up and down.
It was tuned at a very popular shop down in Georgia, twice.
Got to where I didn't even like driving it. With this cam and the auto
now anything below 35 or 40 the tires will lose traction when I stomp
it with the 3:42's I had put in it. Haven't had it on a dyno since but it's
got all the power I want.




LG's X1-E cam (590 ish, 230 ish, 114 LSA).
Dyno'd 471/441
I left some HP on the table and tuned for a SAFE 12.6 AFR.
I did my build with the goal built mine with the goal for MAX Torque, and reliable.
Stock like driving manors. No surging, no bucking, no issues.
I can start it up and drive away. I don't have to let it warm up.
Good for a blower too I'm told... (if I ever choose to).
I routinely get 18 mpg hot ******* it around Dallas.
I did a highway run once and car said I got 29 MPG.
My next fill up said 28 (manual calculation).
Not that I'm worried about gas mileage, but im happy.
I also agree with others... are you sure you have a GOOD tune ?
Your cam is really not that larger than mine.
Where do you have your idle set at ?
Mine is at 925 rpm, and its perfect.
Toque
Last edited by Toque; Jul 1, 2013 at 04:05 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2003 Coupe, H/C, Yank 2800 stall, 3:42 gears.
I have a CompCam 224/230 .581/.588 113 LSA.
This cam is considered a "mild" cam. All of the hp/tq is in the "mid-range". The 113 LSA makes for a lumpy idle. (FYI, I know someone with the exact same cam I have except he has a 114 LSA and the idle sounds stock.)
My car came with the LS6 intake. I used new stock Z06 (243) heads.
I ended up with 420 rwhp/ 392 rwtq.
Hope that helps.

BTW, I changed my gears from 2:73 -> 3:42 before the cam install. That alone made it "feel" like I added 50 hp.
Whenever you do the gears, do the stall at the same time. It will save you 8 hours or $800.00 if someone else does it.
As far as mpg, on flat road at 65 DIC says 26. Add a hill or two, less.
City, I do a lot of rush hour, 45minute trips all stop and go. MPG will drop to 13.
Economy is interesting, but not at all why I built the car.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jul 1, 2013 at 08:13 PM.
LG's X1-E cam (590 ish, 230 ish, 114 LSA).
Dyno'd 471/441
I left some HP on the table and tuned for a SAFE 12.6 AFR.
I did my build with the goal built mine with the goal for MAX Torque, and reliable.
Stock like driving manors. No surging, no bucking, no issues.
I can start it up and drive away. I don't have to let it warm up.
Good for a blower too I'm told... (if I ever choose to).
I routinely get 18 mpg hot ******* it around Dallas.
I did a highway run once and car said I got 29 MPG.
My next fill up said 28 (manual calculation).
Not that I'm worried about gas mileage, but im happy.
I also agree with others... are you sure you have a GOOD tune ?
Your cam is really not that larger than mine.
Where do you have your idle set at ?
Mine is at 925 rpm, and its perfect.
Toque

The idle is set at about 8502003 Coupe, H/C, Yank 2800 stall, 3:42 gears.
I have a CompCam 224/230 .581/.588 113 LSA.
This cam is considered a "mild" cam. All of the hp/tq is in the "mid-range". The 113 LSA makes for a lumpy idle. (FYI, I know someone with the exact same cam I have except he has a 114 LSA and the idle sounds stock.)
My car came with the LS6 intake. I used new stock Z06 (243) heads.
I ended up with 420 rwhp/ 392 rwtq.
Hope that helps.

BTW, I changed my gears from 2:73 -> 3:42 before the cam install. That alone made it "feel" like I added 50 hp.
Whenever you do the gears, do the stall at the same time. It will save you 8 hours or $800.00 if someone else does it.

Getting a quote on stall now. If I do gears, I am going with 3.73's to make it worth the hassle.
As far as mpg, on flat road at 65 DIC says 26. Add a hill or two, less.
City, I do a lot of rush hour, 45minute trips all stop and go. MPG will drop to 13.
Economy is interesting, but not at all why I built the car.
Ron
After living with my first "cam from hell" I cannot tell you how I have enjoyed the stock like drivability with this one. Find a GOOD tuner willing to spend the time and I bet your problems will go away.
After living with my first "cam from hell" I cannot tell you how I have enjoyed the stock like drivability with this one. Find a GOOD tuner willing to spend the time and I bet your problems will go away.

After living with my first "cam from hell" I cannot tell you how I have enjoyed the stock like drivability with this one. Find a GOOD tuner willing to spend the time and I bet your problems will go away.

2002 A4; 228r@114 lsa; ported 243's; long tubes etc.etc.
My tune ruined my cam experience.
Now I gotta go $600 HP tuners (Im an ASE Master but NOT a tuner)
Or go pay some other shop 4-600$ for another tune.
Funny thing Cam, tune, then heads. He had the thing so da*& rich the increased airflow actually improved his lousy tune. Even at idle; cold/warm starts; etc. From 4-6k rpm she is a Goddess though.....
Matt
Put your car in instantaneous fuel economy read out and watch how bad it gets when the converter is stalling. It will surprise you even at light throttle. I bet it costs 3mpg easy.

















