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I just purchased a set of LS6 2002 Z06 heads with the sodium filled valves. I'm having them ported right now. I'm installing them on my 98 c5 with it's stock cam (for now). I know my cam has a larger base circle, and that the valves are a little longer. What length pushrods would I need with my stock ls1 (98) cam? Later, I will probably put in the stock Z cam (02-04) and have to change pushrod length again. But, for now, what length?
I just purchased a set of LS6 2002 Z06 heads with the sodium filled valves. I'm having them ported right now. I'm installing them on my 98 c5 with it's stock cam (for now). I know my cam has a larger base circle, and that the valves are a little longer. What length pushrods would I need with my stock ls1 (98) cam? Later, I will probably put in the stock Z cam (02-04) and have to change pushrod length again. But, for now, what length?
All that work for a ZO6 Cam???????
Please do some home work and get a better aftermarket cam if you are going to do a cam swap.
Even with the ZO6 cam, you should change the valve springs.
I'm sorry I thought I was clear. I wanted to know what pushrod length for use with my stock ls1 cam for now. The cam I go to later is not for sure. By the way, I am having the springs changed to be used for what ever cam I choose. Won't be over 575-580 lift. I just enjoy driving it not to race it.
Do you know for sure they have the sodium filled valves? The set I bought were said to have them but the scales told a different story. Its not that big a deal in my case. Will you replace lifters and buckets while the heads are off? Might want to consider it. As for the correct push rods, the only way to know for sure what you need is to get a adjustable Push rod and do the math.
Last edited by bracketshark; Jul 5, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
Thanks last c5. I'll try one and check the lash. That is, as soon as the heads are ready. Yes, I am changing the lifters also, plus valve job and maybe deck it. Everything on the heads is going to be fresh, except the valves. They stay.
Thanks last c5. I'll try one and check the lash. That is, as soon as the heads are ready. Yes, I am changing the lifters also, plus valve job and maybe deck it. Everything on the heads is going to be fresh, except the valves. They stay.
By the way, while I'm purging you guys for info. When I put the heads and everything on and cleaning the intake, I plan to install a catch can. However, they seem to come anywhere from $19.95 to $495.00 with some minor changes in looks. They all seem to hook up the same way with one person claiming to put one on the pvc and one on the tb. Does the price of one make it better or is it just the size? Recommendations?
comp cams sells a pushrod length checker..you can get them from Texas Speed. Best way to check your pushrod length. Other then that, your just guess or you have to buy multiple single pushrods til you find the right one.
I have decided to do the smart thing and put this in the lap of the friend of mine who owns a very reputable machine shop in the San Antonio area. And low and behold, his friend, who he works with often does nothing but check heads for their flow #'s and does custom cam grinds for whatever your goals are. He also is well known in the San Antonio area. They both told me what C5 said on my original question. The stock pushrods will be fine unless I let them talk me into going the whole head and cam route. And yes, they are the light weight valves. Thanks for everybody's input.
Possibly, but how do you know for sure if you don't check?
Originally Posted by Last C5
That's the length you check first. Its a starting point for your sample rod or your adjustable rod. I'm pretty sure the OP realizes this.
If you have a adjustable push rod why start in the middle? Why not start @ zero and add the preload you're looking for? Speaking of preload I did a search and noticed recommendations for from .040" all the way to .090", so there is a good chance a 7.4" push rod could fall in there somewhere. Good luck.
I don't agree with stock length of 7.385" (they are not 7.400"). If you are having a "valve job" then the valves will sit deeper in the head. As a result, the valve stems will be higher relative to the rocker pivot point and this will change the geometry. If the valves aren't done yet, I would only have them lapped unless there are issues that require more work. With all the work being done, I would spend $20 on an adjustable pushrod and verify the correct length only after checking the rocker wipe pattern (geometry) in case the rocker stand requires adjustment.
Well, they are perfect condition and they are light. They are for sale. I just need to find out what they are worth. My set up is not geared for every little bit of horsepower, just a nice strong dependable motor. If anybody is interested, I should know by next week, maybe sooner what they are worth.
My set up is not geared for every little bit of horsepower, just a nice strong dependable motor.
The exact reason to keep them. These valves allow a much lighter valve train, lower valve spring stiffness, lower rocker loads, less pushrod deflection, the list goes on.