2001 C5 Convertible 12k miles 6 Speed ECSNOVI 2000 Kit Dyno Tuned, Textralia Clutch, Borla Stinger Exhaust.

Codes set off after a lightening storm possibly from a surge thru trickle charger which was kicked off after storm (blew 2 TV's, 2 Transformers near the house and the Sat Box ). Car runs fine, drives fine other than the DIC saying Service ABS, Tract Control, Stability Control.... and Speedo will not go back to Zero after cutting car off and is jumping around if you are going under 30mph. HUD and Odometer working fine.

Codes
PCM No Code

TCS C1232 C H LF Wheel Sensor Open or Shorted
......C1233 C H RF Wheel Sensor
......C1248 C H DRP Disabled (Which Means)?
......C1283 H
BCM, SDM, IPC, Radio, HVAC, SCM, RFA all show no codes

LDCM B2282 H, B2284 H

RDCM B2283 H, B2285 H, U1064 H

Had to recalibrate the Tire TPMS they were reading Blank for each wheel, something went thru the system a surge or EMP...lol.
The car run great just the annoying DIC messages.

Any Thoughts from the Techs. Taking it to the Dealer Tuesday since Insurance is catching the bill, otherwise I would fix myself. What has me thinking is the Speedometer bit is the Wheel Sensors part of what sends the signal to the Speedo? Or Maybe Blew out the Speedo Module? Works great above 30mph matchs HUD Display. Thanks for the Help.

 

Work on the WSS codes for now.. There is a jumper harness that connects the Right and Left Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) to the EBTCM harness on the front K Member. The Female Pins in the jumper harness and in the connector on the K member are most likely BENT/ SPREAD APART/DAMAGED!! Use a pick and bend the tung back up so that it makes positive contact on the male pin in the other plugs. Clear the DTCs and see what comes back. we will go from there!

BC

 

Bill will get you fixed just do what he says.

 

Going in the shop in 3 days since insurance is paying... Will get back with you with results. Thanks for the info Bill. Also another question. The C (current) codes are the ones coming up at each new ignition cycle , if they were not happening at the next new ignition cycle would they flip over to a H (history) code? or would they continue to be listed as C (current code) until cleared?

 

Per the Dealership... Its The EBCM and its on National Backorder so when the part arrives (3days to who knows?) they will install and rob the insurance company of about $1900... that I could do for $300. Just playing their game... again the codes that are being thrown is for the Rt and Lt Front wheel speed sensor (Open or Short).

As far as the Speedometer not working til about 30mph and sticks at about 20mph when cutting car off ...Bill is this related to the EBCM too? or separate problem. To Refresh memories this occurred after lightening strike possibly going thru Trickle charger.

Car drives fine... The HUD and Odometer works fine, and above 30mph the Speedometer needle works great.... whatever happened knockwed all the TPS reading off and had to reset them and working fine. Thanks for the help and ideas

 

"As far as the Speedometer not working til about 30mph and sticks at about 20mph when cutting car off ...Bill is this related to the EBCM too? or separate problem. To Refresh memories this occurred after lightening strike possibly going thru Trickle charger. "

ABSOFRIGGENLOTULY NOT!

Dont even let them try to say that the issue..

Clear ALL the DTCs and see what comes back. You may have a damaged IPC!!

If they replace major modules, PLEASE ,,,, keep your OLD PARTS!

If you dont want them, i will take the!

When I get home I will see if I can get you a schematic for the speedo signal but, most of the circuit is in the IPC

Bill

 

No way lightening had anything to do with this. It could take months for the dealer to get a 2001 ebcm that probably will not fix the problems. Your speedometer does not use the ebcm for speed calculation. I would forget the insurance and find someone who can fix the car.

 

CLEAR all the DTCs and read them your self... Post what comes up

Heres how:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!