Winter project has begun!
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Newberg Oregon
Well got everything back together after guibos replacement. Sometimes things go smooth and somedays not so much. I had 3 friends over to help reinstall and one must have been ford lover or something. Lol. Starting to bleed clutch and fluid was running out of bell hosing. Argh!. Yep " someone " forgot to tighten the lines going in slave. Nice. So yep everything came out again, or is it again x 3? . So now pretty savvy in vette undercarriage. Lol. All fixed and bled now . On to finish brakes tomorow.
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Newberg Oregon
Got front control arm bushings done today. Bottom front arms have to be torched out , once out the steel sleeve gets cut in half and pressed in both sides. Not a difficult procedure just time consuming. Rubber everywhere! Top arms were easier, heat the sleeve and it slides right out. Clean them up and press in with new bushings already in. Whole front bushings project took about 5 hrs. Reinstalled the swaybar and end links. Next up project is brakes.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Christiansburg Virginia
Nice!! Looks like the work of some of the "Certified" welders we had to train to build the freight cars where I worked... We had to start a school just to teach all the Cert'd guys to REALLY weld, LOL
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Newberg Oregon
Got calibers back from powder , I did victory red with hi temp powder. Will withstand up to 900 degrees. All 4 calibers came to 75 bucks to powder. Reassembled with new seals, put some hawk ceramic pads on for street. Saving the race pads for the track days. Same time installed some new braided brake lines as well. Got rear on today, front scheduled for tomorow .
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 114
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From: Newberg Oregon
Yes they are open end. Trying some of those anodized alum ones. Yes alum lugnuts still make me nervous but they worked great on my drag car. So trying them here on street/road course scene.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,590
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From: Nathalie VA
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
Did you put some Loctite on the slave cylinder side of the speed bleeder? Twisting on the other end can loosen it up at the slave causing the leak you were describing.
I had to take my driveline out 3 times too when I replaced my clutch the first time.
I had to take my driveline out 3 times too when I replaced my clutch the first time.
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Newberg Oregon
Funny you mention that cause this time that's exactly what we did, we used some blue Loctite on the lines where in went into the slave. lol. I think it got loose when we were trying to position up inside the tunnel. So many brake lines and fuel lines up there it probably hit something and got loose.
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Instructor
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From: Newberg Oregon
Got front brakes installed. The corvette letters of course came powdered over, had to sand off. Came out pretty nice. All the calibers now have new O rings and dust boots, braided lines, street pads are on. Bled the system, put Motul fluid in. This weekend tackling the LG header and exhaust install.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Newberg Oregon
Today was header and exhaust install. Driver side actually was easy, goes in from bottom. Couple wires in the way near back of motor but it slides by. Passenger side was the patient side. Valve cover comes off, and the starter got unbolted and just moved out of the way. It goes in from the top. Once both sides are in I put new GM gaskets in with ARP 12 points bolts. The exhaust was time consuming lining up everything but not hard. Overall took around 10 hrs to install the LG headers and full exhaust. Mine has the cat delete, we don't have DEQ out here. My Borla stingers bolted right up, perfect fit. Question I have tho is I used the adapter to plug my rear O2 sensors in the front location. So now I have the rear empty plug socket, do I leave like that or plug another sensor in there and just zip tie it?? Will it still work if nothing plugged in that socket?