checking hubs is tipically done with the car off the ground, grab the wheel in the center line of the wheel then try to move a little back and forth (in and out) and see if you have movement in the bearing.. then hold at top and bottom and move in and out as well to see if you have play in the hub.

Definatly get the ride height up a little bit and have a good alignment done.. My car was a mess when turning, rear felt like it wanted to swing out on me. after the alignment the car was solid and felt glued to the road again.

Might consider ordering new OEM bolts or find some here that someone has replaced. Best to have the right bolts in there rather then using washers/spacers...

S

 

Thanks so much for the helpful info. The part where you talk about your car's rear coming out from underneath you is "dead on" what my car feels like. The car feels like there is another driver and steering wheel connected to the butt of the car and they are doing their own thing. I love the stance of the car lowered down, but I am tired of the headaches that follow it: crappy handling, ground pounding, and rear steering.
I really just want the car right and all the problems the previous owner created solved.
Again, I cannot thank all of the people of this thread enough for the great and very informative help you all have given

 

Here is something that you can do before your alignment.

Each wheel/suspension assy has a CAM that adjust the CASTER/CAMBER of that wheel. If you look under the car where the lower A Arms meet the chassis attachment point, you will see the adjustment cams on the front and rear of the A Arm attachment point.

Sometimes you will find them loose and that allows the suspension to changesalignment at each bump and turn.

Here is what I do before a MAJOR alignment.
Check EACH cam adjuster. Mark the current position of the cam with relation to the A arm bracket with a permanent marker.
With the correct size wrenches, loosen the adjuster bolt and cycle the cam thru its full range and then return it to the marked position. If its stiff, free it up with penetrating oil.

That will make sure that the adjustment cam and the bolt is easy for the alignment guy to adjust and can be re-tightened properly. Ive seen some that were VERY DIFFICULT to adjust and re-tighten properly


What ever you do, MARK the new alignment positions on each adjuster so, if you have an issue after the alignment, you can see if its because of the adjustment cam that maybe slipped.

Another NOTE. Make sure that the alignment guy gets the steering wheel DEAD NUTS CENTERED when the car is driving straight down a straight level road. If its off center, it can have a negative effect on your Active Handling (if you have it)

Bill

 

Thanks Bill. I tell you, this car never ceases to amaze me. I was a Mustang guy forever, so I never got this in depth with a cornering type suspension. I just dumped a set of adjustable shocks and struts and a set of drag springs on. This car has been far more challenging. With that said, you all have been great.

Thanks again and I will make sure and check the cams to get them marked.

 

Ha!!! When you get it all straightened out,,, Then tell us what you think about the car compared to the STANG.


Bill

 

Has anybody ordered gm parts direct c6 z06 sway bar package:pkc6z06stab? If so, is the diameter 31mm in the front and 28 in the back?
Last question. Since I have 325/30/19's in the back, will this sway bar kit work on my c5?