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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 08:38 PM
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Default Head install question

I am helping a friend put new heads on his 02 Z06. They are PRC heads. The question is....he is putting ARP studs in. Do you use the ARP lube or can you just put oil on them.

2nd question. One side of his engine has studs, the other has bolts (evidently, a previous owner messed up something somewhere). How far do the studs thread into the block? Do they bottom out?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 01:47 AM
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1, I'd ask ARP, I'd think use their oil.
2, I'd ask ARP what they recommend.
3, Are you the same guy who was having a hard time removing the one head?
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 03:21 AM
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I agree with grantv, if you're not sure; contact the manufacturer. But IMHO, the ARP provided lube is probably just machine oil without any of the additives found in engine oil. Either will work fine just don't overdo it, you don't want an accumulation of oil in the bolt holes. The purpose of the lube is to reduce friction on the threads during torquing in order to get a more accurate result. I would just snug the studs onto the block, the torquing proccess will most likely bottom them out. Remember it's an aluminum block so the more thread inserted, the better the connection executed.

That's my 2 cents worth.
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LMB-Z
I am helping a friend put new heads on his 02 Z06. They are PRC heads. The question is....he is putting ARP studs in. Do you use the ARP lube or can you just put oil on them.

2nd question. One side of his engine has studs, the other has bolts (evidently, a previous owner messed up something somewhere). How far do the studs thread into the block? Do they bottom out?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

A few years back, ARP improved their lube. It provides pretty accurate preload values from torque and is very specific for this purpose. It is not lube oil. Torque is a very imprecise way to measure bolt preload, but they have done a lot of research and their lube is the only way to go. Don't use oil.

The studs are to be lubed and then screwed in until they bottom. I will usually screw in until bottomed and then back off 1/4 turn. Also, make sure the threads are clean (ARP makes a thread chaser for this, don't use a tap) and make absolutely sure there is no coolant in any of the bolt holes. That will result in a cracked block.
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
A few years back, ARP improved their lube. It provides pretty accurate preload values from torque and is very specific for this purpose. It is not lube oil. Torque is a very imprecise way to measure bolt preload, but they have done a lot of research and their lube is the only way to go. Don't use oil.

The studs are to be lubed and then screwed in until they bottom. I will usually screw in until bottomed and then back off 1/4 turn. Also, make sure the threads are clean (ARP makes a thread chaser for this, don't use a tap) and make absolutely sure there is no coolant in any of the bolt holes. That will result in a cracked block.
100% on the mark!!! The block bolt holes are blind holes and the studs should easily screw all the way in and bottom out.

As vettenuts stated,,, check, check and double check for dirt and moisture/coolant in the block bolt holes and use the correct ARP lube!

Bill
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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ARP lube.... bottom them out, hand-tight, nothing crazy. All of this info is in the instruction sheet...

Studs: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-4316.pdf

Bolts: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/134-3609.pdf
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 09:29 AM
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Don't forget the ARP Thread sealer for the studs going into the block so you don't want to wonder why antifreeze is leaking from the studs latter. The ARP lube is very different from oil, myself I would not second guess the manufacturer & go with their product's.

I've just had my heads off/on for the third time & the studs are very nice vs bolts. Just a torque spec, easy on & off
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CTD
Don't forget the ARP Thread sealer for the studs going into the block so you don't want to wonder why antifreeze is leaking from the studs latter. The ARP lube is very different from oil, myself I would not second guess the manufacturer & go with their product's.

I've just had my heads off/on for the third time & the studs are very nice vs bolts. Just a torque spec, easy on & off
CTD

ALL,, LS blocks have or are suppose to have BLIND HEAD BOLT HOLES. That is why it is CRITICAL to insure that the head bolt holes are clean and free of any liquids.

IF,, you were to attempt to TORQUE a GM OEM Head Bolt in the block and the bolt hole had LIQUID or dirt in the hole, 99% of the time, the block will fracture at the bottom of the head bolt hole.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 10, 2015 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
CTD

ALL,, LS blocks have or are suppose to have BLIND HEAD BOLT HOLES. Bill
Another learn something new everyday I've used the thread sealant on the studs & nice part is each time I've had the heads off hardly any studs come loose. A little more difficult cleaning up around the studs but it's minor not chasing each & every bolt hole
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