Head install question
2nd question. One side of his engine has studs, the other has bolts (evidently, a previous owner messed up something somewhere). How far do the studs thread into the block? Do they bottom out?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I agree with grantv, if you're not sure; contact the manufacturer. But IMHO, the ARP provided lube is probably just machine oil without any of the additives found in engine oil. Either will work fine just don't overdo it, you don't want an accumulation of oil in the bolt holes. The purpose of the lube is to reduce friction on the threads during torquing in order to get a more accurate result. I would just snug the studs onto the block, the torquing proccess will most likely bottom them out. Remember it's an aluminum block so the more thread inserted, the better the connection executed.
That's my 2 cents worth.
2nd question. One side of his engine has studs, the other has bolts (evidently, a previous owner messed up something somewhere). How far do the studs thread into the block? Do they bottom out?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
A few years back, ARP improved their lube. It provides pretty accurate preload values from torque and is very specific for this purpose. It is not lube oil. Torque is a very imprecise way to measure bolt preload, but they have done a lot of research and their lube is the only way to go. Don't use oil.
The studs are to be lubed and then screwed in until they bottom. I will usually screw in until bottomed and then back off 1/4 turn. Also, make sure the threads are clean (ARP makes a thread chaser for this, don't use a tap) and make absolutely sure there is no coolant in any of the bolt holes. That will result in a cracked block.





The studs are to be lubed and then screwed in until they bottom. I will usually screw in until bottomed and then back off 1/4 turn. Also, make sure the threads are clean (ARP makes a thread chaser for this, don't use a tap) and make absolutely sure there is no coolant in any of the bolt holes. That will result in a cracked block.
As vettenuts stated,,, check, check and double check for dirt and moisture/coolant in the block bolt holes and use the correct ARP lube!
Bill
Studs: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-4316.pdf
Bolts: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/134-3609.pdf
I've just had my heads off/on for the third time & the studs are very nice vs bolts. Just a torque spec, easy on & off





I've just had my heads off/on for the third time & the studs are very nice vs bolts. Just a torque spec, easy on & off

ALL,, LS blocks have or are suppose to have BLIND HEAD BOLT HOLES. That is why it is CRITICAL to insure that the head bolt holes are clean and free of any liquids.
IF,, you were to attempt to TORQUE a GM OEM Head Bolt in the block and the bolt hole had LIQUID or dirt in the hole, 99% of the time, the block will fracture at the bottom of the head bolt hole.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 10, 2015 at 08:45 PM.
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I've used the thread sealant on the studs & nice part is each time I've had the heads off hardly any studs come loose. A little more difficult cleaning up around the studs but it's minor not chasing each & every bolt hole












