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If you decide to get another fuse box be AWARE, they are not all the same. There are variances that will NOT mate up with your connectors. You can repin connectors but you should not just try to plug and play unless you know they are the same.
Also I have found the GM numbering of where the connectors go is wrong. The connectors from the passenger fender towards the engine is C1, C2, and then C3. I did this by matching the connector views with wire colors and where they were placed. Also compared that with what Fuses and Relays that were above them and found a match.
Found the same thing in the I/P fuse box with the way GM numbered their locations.
If you need any help, I have the info for all the years I can compare for you.
and we we tracing by continuity and separating each connection from each other. via the wires themselves as I found even the owners manual with the car to be wrong on a bunch of the fuses.... have a lot of the car apart lol.
as for the fuse box, the car is an early 99 (older pcm, only 2 bar sd capable) so should I look for a 98 box just in case? and I am going to hunt some of the local junkyards to find a similar optioned car just in case. I was quickly looking them up yesterday and it seems to be the same part # from 97-04 from what I could find, but I trust you guys over what else I was able to find.
but at least we are starting to narrow down the problem, hopefully have this thing back to life in a week or two. just stinks the car is 100 miles away from me, hate waiting a week to work on it again.
Here is what the internals of the fuse box look like. You might want to look inside. There is a little trick to open it up. I don't have a link for that but will look.
I looed at 99 versus 98 and found some differences. Two of them may only be circuit numbering differences that don't matter.
99 has a Maxi Fuse 51 that 98 does not.
Maxi Fuse 52 in both years are the same except reversed circuit inputs which could be repinned.
Both 51 and 52 in 99 have the same circuits which is strange.
Will look at this closer later, not at home now.
I will figure it out and see if there really is a "true" problem. I want to redo everything I did later to verify no mistakes on my part.
It is possible the internals are the same ( see picture above)for all years and it is just a matter of making sure the pins on the connectors are moved to make the circuits correct. That is easy to do.
PS; Just looked at the 99 OM and Fuse 51 is for Selective Real Time Damping ---- Do you have that?
If you don't have SRTD then a 1998 fuse box will work in 1999.
I think it will work even if you do have SRTD but I can't prove it. I think that Spare fuse 51 1998 location still has terminals for the fuse and you would only need to wire terminals and insert them into the unused correct locations on the C3 connector.
I am now thinking that the difference between fuse boxes may not be the boxes but just how the connectors are wired.
I would still want to verify the year connectors against the actual fuse and relay locations on the boxes.
car doesn't have the active suspension thankfully.
and my friend took apart the rest of the fuse box yesterday (thankfully him not me lol) and sent me a pic but I think I can see where the short it. 2nd pin down from the center bolt where it crosses over to the other block side, looks to be pretty well toasted. so looks like I'll be looking for another fuse block once I can verify which one I need.
unfortunately can't test much past that with it, so hopefully get one before the weekend so I can swap it in and hope for the best.
Let me know and I can help if needed. If the fuses and relays are in the same positions you are good to go. Just make sure someone didn't change the fuse ratings.
Marc at VetteNuts.com is a good source for used parts.
thanks, going to hit him up today.
and yeah he didn't change anything in the boxes, hope this is where the short is terminated, and not in the harness that goes into the fender.
Let me know what the service number is on your fuse box, im sure we have that one in stock as we have parted 20 or more 99's out.
will do, should have that part number this afternoon at some point.
thank you guys for all your help on this, can't wait to get this thing out on the road. I have 2 cars dead in my own driveway I need to get on too once this is running lol.
Well traced it to the heavy purple wire coming out of the block towards the battery connection side. About to start stripping the harness and following. Anyone know where that wire goes too? It's in the harness with the braided covering on it. Pulled the battery tray out and it heads down towards the pcm then it splits 3 wayd. Rather not have to tear it all apart if there is just one circuit I need to check. Hopefully it didn't take out the pcm. Hate throwing money at stuff that doesn't fix the problem lol.
Good thing I got the new fuse box thougH. Original got destroyed when it was being taken apart
That is the power feed to the starter solenoid. Here is the schematic. I also verified it by the wire colors on the left and right. Here is the schematic. Let me know if you hve any questions.
PS: If the TDR relay is "clicking" it may be the contacts in the switch like I said before. I would check for continuity from the TDR Purple wire to the starter. If good, you might want to test for voltage out of the TDR purple wire when you turn the ignition to Start.
