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ive been having an issue with my alternator not kicking on when i start my car. if i rev the rpm's up to 2000 the volt gauge will go up to 14volts. i have also confirmed this with a meter. i bought a new alternator from Autozone and have the same issue with it. i unplugged the connector from the alternator and i have 10 volts on one red wire, 12 volts on the other red wire, and nothing on the grey colored one. once i unplug the connector and plug it back in the alternator will kick on then. im stumped. does it take a full 12 volts from the pcm to kick the alternator on? is the 10 volts not enough?
as many here have found out it's a bad idea to replace the alt with a rebuild,these cars are very fussy about the right alt, and did you turn your old one in for a core ????
ive been having an issue with my alternator not kicking on when i start my car. if i rev the rpm's up to 2000 the volt gauge will go up to 14volts. i have also confirmed this with a meter...
Is this your original, OEM Valeo alternator? Was it fine before and this just began happening? This is typical behavior of a non OEM-equivalent replacement.
EDIT: trying to better help you, I searched your previous posts and found out your C5 is a relatively new-to-you, 6-speed 2002 with 80K miles, bought from a dealer, so it is possible your "original" alternator is not the EOM Valeo and it might not be an exact replacement either... Could you please verify that?
Originally Posted by slider_buck
...i bought a new alternator from Autozone and have the same issue with it...
As Akapounder just mentioned, the replacement you bought is not really OEM-equivalent. If your alternator was the original OEM Valeo, don't turn it in as core. It would probably be better to try to rebuild it. Check this post for more info.
Is this your original, OEM Valeo alternator? Was it fine before and this just began happening? This is typical behavior of a non OEM-equivalent replacement.
EDIT: trying to better help you, I searched your previous posts and found out your C5 is a relatively new-to-you, 6-speed 2002 with 80K miles, bought from a dealer, so it is possible your "original" alternator is not the EOM Valeo and it might not be an exact replacement either... Could you please verify that?
As Akapounder just mentioned, the replacement you bought is not really OEM-equivalent. If your alternator was the original OEM Valeo, don't turn it in as core. It would probably be better to try to rebuild it. Check this post for more info.
the alternator that i just took off of it came from Oreileys Auto parts. I kept it because its farely new. I put it on the car just as soon as i bought it because that one wasnt wanting to put out 14 volts when it got a load put on it. Ive never had an OEM one on it.
currently no codes with it doing this. with the old alternator every now and then i would get a bunch of codes to come up. codes saying something about a short to some saying low voltage.
Replacement alternators and C5s are never a "sure thing". As mentioned above, this is well documented here... just search on the subject and you'll have a better idea of what you're dealing with.
Since you purchased your car without the original OEM Valeo alternator, you don't have its part number. It might be a good idea to look for it and use it as a double-check tool when searching for replacements. Be prepared for a trial-and-error process.
Perhaps you may want to explore the possibility of just replacing the voltage regulator with the right one and see if that does it (for 30 bucks). Check this post for more info.
ive tried searching but never have much luck with the search feature on here. i never found that link you just gave me when searching for "alternator". thanks though. im going to buy a regulator and see if that will fix it.
UNTIL you MEASURE the voltages on all the areas that you can prove the voltages are what they are suppose to be, its going to be a LONG EXPENSIVE JOURNY!
UNTIL you MEASURE the voltages on all the areas that you can prove the voltages are what they are suppose to be, its going to be a LONG EXPENSIVE JOURNY!
i did measure different points. i put that in my first message. when i start the car up im getting around 12 volts at the alternator lug, 12 volts on one of the red wires at the connector for the regulator, nothing on the tan colored wire, and 10 volts on the other red wire on the connector. the gauge inside also reflects this. when i rev it up to 2000 rpms i get 14.7 out of the alternator, 14.7 on the one red wire, not sure on the tan with it running, and still had 10 on the other red wire