Long post!

Currently my LS1 is basically out of commission, I spun a main bearing AFAIK. Much sads. Fourth time I used a tow truck in a year on the vette

I have a new built T6060 / C6 Diff at my shop ready to be installed on my car, so now I am going to throw a new engine / clutch in at the same time...

My one goal.. Do it RIGHT the FIRST time. I appreciate and welcome all feedback that will align me with this.

I have coilovers and the shop will cut/extend the exhaust so there is nothing to be concerned with the T6060 swap.

My plan at the moment:
($11k max) LS3 from Texas Speed or Hinson
-Casper Knock Sensor & Cam Sensor Adapter Harness
-GM LS3 Timing Cover (Includes Cam Sensor, Bolts, Seals)
-GM LS3 Valley Cover
-GM LS3 Knock Sensor (2 Required)
-GM LS3 Crankshaft Position Sensor
(~$350) -ATI Standard Harmonic Balancers 917060 (Not sure how to choose a Harmonic Balancer)
-Will use my 90MM Fast Intake from my current LS1 if possible (yes/ no?)
-Will use my water pump from my LS1 (Less than 5k miles on it.)
-Spark Plugs (Will ask engine builder what I should use?)

*What else would I need for the engine swap to be complete?

Currently have a Textralia clutch in the car, but if I'm replacing everything, clutch is coming out as well.

(~$1500) Monster Clutch LT1-SC TWIN DISC C5 PACKAGE
-New Slave Cylinder
-18lb Steel Flywheel
-??Pilot Bearing/ Bushing? I see multiple kinds... trying to find a solid brass one as they are the most reliable?
(Already have a remote bleeder)

($200) Hinson Urethane Engine Mounts ( Should I go with the 3/8th shorter ones?)


My current Dynatech headers have a hole, will try and have them fixed while the car is apart. If not - I'll look into buy another set of LG or Kooks.


Thoughts...?? I believe I have done my research, but I am out of my comfort zone on this, and its a big undertaking (BANK IS CRYING)



PS: I would love to throw a supercharger / TT kit on the car at a later date, as the rear end was my first step to that goal. I am just pushed to make the engine / clutch change sooner than I thought.

Lets say the goal of this engine while NA would be 600HP @ CRANK


Last... but not least.. I have attached my current engine built.. is there anything salvageable that you notice?

Thanks again for your feedback!

 

After even more research, I am going with a 427 LS3 from Hinson Motorsports, I believe. Huge headache trying to figure out the intake manifold/ tb / MAF / fuel rails.. no idea where to go with those. I currently have a 90mm fast intake on my LS1 with FAST fuel rails.. unsure if they will swap over.
(Engine will have 24x reluctor / 265 cc trick flow)

Things to buy:
Caspers Knock Sensor & Cam Sensor Adapter Harness $54.95 109081
GM LS3 Timing Cover (Includes Cam Sensor, Bolts, Seals) $85.62 12600325
GM LS3 Valley Cover $89.87 12599296
>(Same as Casper?)Racetronix LS1-LS2 Knock Sensor Relocation kit $29.95 Lingenfelter
GM LS3 Crankshaft Position Sensor $37.73 12585546
LS1 MAP Extension 26' $33.95 Casper
Trick Flow EV6 to EV1 Fuel Injector Adapter kit (Need 8) $135.76
LS3 Starter - ACDELCO $128.00
ATI Super Damper - Harmonic balancer - $381
McLeod Twin disc Clutch -included with engine package
Dorman Pilot Bushing $7.99
Slave Cylinder & Throwout Bearing $142.99
Hinson Urthene Engine Mounts $199.00

>fuel pump from racetronix
C5 Fuel Pump Wiring harness $69.00
C5 Fuel Pump Assembly HP (RXP255J) $145.00
Pump booster interface connector set 8


Unsure:
LS3 Intake Manifold $250
LS3 Injectors
LS3 Coils
LS HI-FLOW FUEL RAILS - FITS LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6 & L99 FACTORY INTAKES $140.00
BRACKET KIT - Fuel Rails for EV1 Injectors $43.00
1 7/8th Kooks headers


Things to re-use?
- LS1 Throttle Body
- MAF
- water pump
- PS pump
-etc

 

I would talk to a few shops, where are you located?

If you want forced induction later, you of course want lower compression. You may want to run a smaller chamber head and a thin head gasket until you get the forced induction setup. Have you taken the motor apart to know what is damaged? I would also talk with Tick and SDPC.

 

LS3 heads have a rectangular intake port vs the cathedral intake port on the C5 LS early LS2 heads. It wont fit the LS3.

Hope you don't have any HOT BALANCE Drivetrain Vibration issues with your new engine /flywheel install. That gets IFFY when you start installing all new/different stuff.

IF,,,, It does have vibrations after the install contact me. I have recommendations for fixing it.

Bill

 

Polo,

Currently located in San Jose, CA - ( Bay Area) Any known engine shops around here?

I am having the engine built at 9:1 CR... Should work well for 5-7 psi of boost?

They suggested 265cc trick flow heads...?

I have not, but I will do this afterwards and try learn a bit... maybe take it apart and rebuild it myself if I can manage.

Will call up Ticks and SDPC to see what their inputs are.

Thanks!




So - Go with LS3 intake manifold / Current TB / Current MAF will go well? ( I don't believe my MAF/TF are stock.)


If I experience any issues with the install I'll send you a message, thanks for the offer... I've seen many of your informative posts.

Hopefully all goes smoothly.. but it's a lot of change for sure.

 

Here are the specs from Hinson I got... they will assemble basically everything on the engine and ship it to me.

They will balance the flywheel/crank etc.

Any thoughts / concerns??

 

nice build, no worries with that

 

Any tips on breaking in a new engine / clutch /transmission?

Can this be done on the dyno during tuning?

 

Does anyone know a good mail-in tuner I could use for my break in period?

I don't want to stick a brand new clutch on the dyno, but I also don't want to break the engine too easy.

I've read I don't need to bed in a ceramic clutch as much as an organic. Hopefully I can push the engine a little to get the rings to seal properly after a few heat cycles on the clutch, although I have no idea.

Any advice on tuners?

 

Things to re-use?
- LS1 Throttle Body - won't fit LS3 intake
- MAF - use Halltech CAI with LS7/LS3 MAF card
- water pump - new LS3/LS7, don't cheap on water pump
- PS pump - no worries to re-use

 

You live in the PRC, better check CARB rules before you spend money to see if any of this will pass inspection.

 

- LS1 Throttle Body - won't fit LS3 intake
> I have the 4 bolt to 3bolt adapter.
>Otherwise I would be looking at the LS2 TB w/ silver blade I believe.
>How about this?
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-217-1...t_dp_o_pC_S_nC

- MAF - use Halltech CAI with LS7/LS3 MAF card
This would work? It states I would need their LS2 adapter as well I believe.
http://www.halltechsystems.com/Hallt...-p/kbmf103.htm


- water pump - new LS3/LS7, don't cheap on water pump
>Mine is new
>Would this work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...Of0aAk038P8HAQ

- PS pump - no worries to re-use

 

Huh? Emissions? This car is registered in WA... They handed me the plates at the DMV counter. I would never pass emissions in CA.

I just happen to drive it here... i'm "borrowing" it.

 

Then you my friend are Good to GO! Let us know how it turns out, this is a great project!!

 

I bought an LS2 TB
Halltech CAI
LS7 Water pump pn19180610

Hopefully all will be good...

 

You didn't waste any time !

 

I'm already over my eye ***** in the build. Whats a little more on top? LOL

I also got the LS1>LS2 TB Adapter cables.

Heres to hoping everything goes together smoothly. :|

Still trying to figure out my tuning/dyno plan.

Dyno the new clutch and break-in the engine while tuning?

Should I worry about dynoing a fresh twin disc ceramic clutch? I'll reach out to McLeod

 

Dyno tune is for max horsepower only, get a good street tune with plenty of logging and fine tuning for drivability to break it in. Do the max power dyno tune later...no need to hurry and fxxk it up. Too many run straight to dyno for max number and spend so little time putting a genuine street tune on a new motor when 90% of your driving will be far less than full throttle.

 

I just want the car to run nice on the street, Where would I get my street tune? Could I ship my PCM to ECS and they flash it?

As I have a new MAF - that will need to be accounted for (supposedly LS7 MAF tables are a good starting point?)

Isn't a street tune derived from dyno pulls as well? The engine will have enough power for me so I am am focused on reliability and what not. 20~HP won't make too much of a difference to me as it should be over 600 at the crank.

What ever gets it done right...

 

You've spent too much on parts to go mail order tune. I'd find the best tuner in your area and have them spend time logging and adjusting until it is complete...no different than painting a portrait, it takes skill and time to do correctly. They can do your dyno tune after you've put some break in miles on your clutch and your rings seat properly.