Accusump
Last edited by Dirk Miller; Dec 6, 2017 at 10:58 AM.





https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-accusump.html
pdf is no longer hosted but they discuss the location but the pdf states:
Use Parker part number 8M16C80MX from Fluidair
This is an m16x1.5 male to insert into the engine oil galley, and a –8 AN line
Last edited by 93Polo; Dec 6, 2017 at 02:06 PM.
Can you explain that? What part would I need to do that? I've seen a lot of people complaining that the EPC pressure switches from Canton fail and I am assuming it is because of the inductive kickback (also, I don't know what that is!).
Thanks for the pictures and information, SUPER helpful!!
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Rob... I'm hoping you can shed some light here. I've diagrammed my setup below, I'm going absolutely F-ing nuts here.
EVERY time I start the car, my 12v LED indicator is burning out. I've used both commercial LED's (I work at a sign company so I have lots of these) and cheapy ebay ones (which do appear to have a wee diode in them).
Other than that, the warning light works correctly the first time - I turn ignition to "ON", light comes on as accusump switch sees low pressure and activates. Turn car on - boom. Light goes out (and is dead). Turning car off and on again confirms LED is dead, as it doesn't work anymore after that first engine start (and I've also bench tested them just to make sure I wasn't nuts).
Things I tried:
moving the ground of the LED away from the solenoid ground: It looked like the LED lasted slightly longer but then I watched it burn out right in front of me as t
Disconnecting the RC snubber thing: didn't make a difference
Putting volt-meter onto the leads as I started the car: I DID see a voltage spike, it happened so fast I wasn't sure of the number I think it might have been around 100 volts.
Last edited by monarch; Jun 17, 2023 at 09:10 PM. Reason: my pasted image came through as text
Rob... I'm hoping you can shed some light here. I've diagrammed my setup below, I'm going absolutely F-ing nuts here.
EVERY time I start the car, my 12v LED indicator is burning out. I've used both commercial LED's (I work at a sign company so I have lots of these) and cheapy ebay ones (which do appear to have a wee diode in them).
Other than that, the warning light works correctly the first time - I turn ignition to "ON", light comes on as accusump switch sees low pressure and activates. Turn car on - boom. Light goes out (and is dead). Turning car off and on again confirms LED is dead, as it doesn't work anymore after that first engine start (and I've also bench tested them just to make sure I wasn't nuts).
Things I tried:
moving the ground of the LED away from the solenoid ground: It looked like the LED lasted slightly longer but then I watched it burn out right in front of me as t
Disconnecting the RC snubber thing: didn't make a difference
Putting volt-meter onto the leads as I started the car: I DID see a voltage spike, it happened so fast I wasn't sure of the number I think it might have been around 100 volts.
I took the car for its first test drive today, a couple things I noticed. First off, oil cooler and accusump appear to be working fine - oil pressure stayed normal (not really surprised here, would not have turned hard enough to pull G's) and temperatures looked lower. Only track time will tell.
Oddball thing #1: During idle with oil at operating temp (roughly 210 degrees) my oil pressure went to 31 PSI. I would have expected the accusump to activate, but I think my LED burned out... AGAIN.
FYI - I have 2x220ohm resistors in-line on the LED for a total of 440ohms. From RX7Robs post it looks like he used 560 ohms... Do I need the 560's on the LED's?
Oddball thing #2: When I got home, I turned car off and turned it back on (key to on, engine off). The accusump clicked multiple times, as if the solenoid was turning on/off (maybe about 1/2 second between). Could this be a symptom of that RC snubber thing I have on there? I did order the 1N4007 diodes as you suggested, they should be here saturday.
However, when I turned the car on later (key to on, engine note running - engine oil about 180) it appeared that the accusump activated "correctly" - opened up and stayed open.








