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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #21  
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There's more than one way to fix it. I'm sure they're taking care of it since they know a diode on its own will pop quickly!
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Old Dec 5, 2017 | 09:17 AM
  #22  
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Rx7Rob, excellent install. Preparing to install mine the same way...one question I had, is there a reason you installed the direction you did? Air fittings on bottom and oil on top? My thought was to install the opposite but when I looked closer at the pictures I saw this and figured there may be a good reason. Thanks in advance!
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Old Dec 5, 2017 | 06:35 PM
  #23  
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Canton says it can be mounted in any direction but keeping the oil end slightly higher prevents air from collecting.
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 10:54 AM
  #24  
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I set up a 3 quart Accusump up a few years back on my base C6 and hooked it up to a ZO6 oil cooler that I installed in the front of the radiator. Works great. In addition I put in an oil filled pressure gauge that allows a person to view while driving how quickly the sump begins its dump. And lastly, attaching the relief valve to a couple foot flexible line releases the oil out of the way for keeping car things clean.

Last edited by Dirk Miller; Dec 6, 2017 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 01:59 PM
  #25  
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David Farmer recommended installing in the front oil galley port.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-accusump.html

pdf is no longer hosted but they discuss the location but the pdf states:

Use Parker part number 8M16C80MX from Fluidair

This is an m16x1.5 male to insert into the engine oil galley, and a –8 AN line

Last edited by 93Polo; Dec 6, 2017 at 02:06 PM.
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Old May 22, 2023 | 02:05 PM
  #26  
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@Rx7Rob Sorry to resurrect this post, you seem to be the only person who knows this secret "put a diode across the solenoid" trick to make the system last longer.

Can you explain that? What part would I need to do that? I've seen a lot of people complaining that the EPC pressure switches from Canton fail and I am assuming it is because of the inductive kickback (also, I don't know what that is!).

Thanks for the pictures and information, SUPER helpful!!
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Old May 22, 2023 | 04:13 PM
  #27  
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Here's how I wired it. 1N4007 on the relay and 10A10 on the solenoid valve. I chose those only because I had them on hand. Diodes are dirt cheap on ebay. You don't need the relay, I did it so you don't have the high current going through long wires to the toggle switch inside the car. If you don't have the relay, you don't need the 1N4007.


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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 10:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rx7Rob
Here's how I wired it. 1N4007 on the relay and 10A10 on the solenoid valve. I chose those only because I had them on hand. Diodes are dirt cheap on ebay. You don't need the relay, I did it so you don't have the high current going through long wires to the toggle switch inside the car. If you don't have the relay, you don't need the 1N4007.

Hi Rob, what is the best/easiest way to hook up an electric valve to the ignition so it acts as a pre-lube? Electronics are definitely not my strong suit. Thanks
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Old Jun 13, 2023 | 04:07 PM
  #29  
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Easiest way is to just use a toggle connected to switched power.
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Old Jun 17, 2023 | 07:24 PM
  #30  
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UPDATE: Added the resistors before the LED's and issue is solved!!! I had 2x 220 ohm from extra RC snubbers, I took them out and soldered them in-line w/ the wiring. All is good! Your diagram was the key!

Rob... I'm hoping you can shed some light here. I've diagrammed my setup below, I'm going absolutely F-ing nuts here.

EVERY time I start the car, my 12v LED indicator is burning out. I've used both commercial LED's (I work at a sign company so I have lots of these) and cheapy ebay ones (which do appear to have a wee diode in them).

Other than that, the warning light works correctly the first time - I turn ignition to "ON", light comes on as accusump switch sees low pressure and activates. Turn car on - boom. Light goes out (and is dead). Turning car off and on again confirms LED is dead, as it doesn't work anymore after that first engine start (and I've also bench tested them just to make sure I wasn't nuts).




Things I tried:

moving the ground of the LED away from the solenoid ground: It looked like the LED lasted slightly longer but then I watched it burn out right in front of me as t

Disconnecting the RC snubber thing: didn't make a difference

Putting volt-meter onto the leads as I started the car: I DID see a voltage spike, it happened so fast I wasn't sure of the number I think it might have been around 100 volts.

Last edited by monarch; Jun 17, 2023 at 09:10 PM. Reason: my pasted image came through as text
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Old Jun 18, 2023 | 11:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by monarch
UPDATE: Added the resistors before the LED's and issue is solved!!! I had 2x 220 ohm from extra RC snubbers, I took them out and soldered them in-line w/ the wiring. All is good! Your diagram was the key!

Rob... I'm hoping you can shed some light here. I've diagrammed my setup below, I'm going absolutely F-ing nuts here.

EVERY time I start the car, my 12v LED indicator is burning out. I've used both commercial LED's (I work at a sign company so I have lots of these) and cheapy ebay ones (which do appear to have a wee diode in them).

Other than that, the warning light works correctly the first time - I turn ignition to "ON", light comes on as accusump switch sees low pressure and activates. Turn car on - boom. Light goes out (and is dead). Turning car off and on again confirms LED is dead, as it doesn't work anymore after that first engine start (and I've also bench tested them just to make sure I wasn't nuts).




Things I tried:

moving the ground of the LED away from the solenoid ground: It looked like the LED lasted slightly longer but then I watched it burn out right in front of me as t

Disconnecting the RC snubber thing: didn't make a difference

Putting volt-meter onto the leads as I started the car: I DID see a voltage spike, it happened so fast I wasn't sure of the number I think it might have been around 100 volts.
That rc snubber device is polarity sensitive. It's not really meant for suppressing inductive voltage spikes from coils. You just need to place a diode across the solenoid coil. Any 1 amp diode like a 1N4000 series should be fine.
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Old Jun 20, 2023 | 02:33 PM
  #32  
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@C5MSG2004Vert thanks for the info... so, another update.

I took the car for its first test drive today, a couple things I noticed. First off, oil cooler and accusump appear to be working fine - oil pressure stayed normal (not really surprised here, would not have turned hard enough to pull G's) and temperatures looked lower. Only track time will tell.

Oddball thing #1: During idle with oil at operating temp (roughly 210 degrees) my oil pressure went to 31 PSI. I would have expected the accusump to activate, but I think my LED burned out... AGAIN.

FYI - I have 2x220ohm resistors in-line on the LED for a total of 440ohms. From RX7Robs post it looks like he used 560 ohms... Do I need the 560's on the LED's?

Oddball thing #2: When I got home, I turned car off and turned it back on (key to on, engine off). The accusump clicked multiple times, as if the solenoid was turning on/off (maybe about 1/2 second between). Could this be a symptom of that RC snubber thing I have on there? I did order the 1N4007 diodes as you suggested, they should be here saturday.

However, when I turned the car on later (key to on, engine note running - engine oil about 180) it appeared that the accusump activated "correctly" - opened up and stayed open.



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Old Feb 28, 2025 | 10:28 PM
  #33  
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I found this thread super helpful when I was researching an Accusump for my 02 Z06 but I still had questions. I made a video to hopefully help others in the future. It covers what parts you need and how you can install an Accusump in the driver side fender area of a C5.

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