ATI damper torque problems
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 405
Likes: 5
ATI damper torque problems
I'm trying to install my new damper. I pinned the crank, got the damper on I think all the way. Now I am using the old bolt to torque it to 240ft lbs.
The problem is that to remove my starter I would need to cut the crossover/up pipe for my turbo(po ran it that way)
I tried using a nylon strap wrench on the hub and the helped some but I still can't get enough torque. I cut the old serpentine belt and tried using that but still not enough.
Would i be able to use the inspection cover on the bell housing and block the flex plate from spinning. I know the torque tube sees plenty of torque anyway, I just don't want to mess anything up
The problem is that to remove my starter I would need to cut the crossover/up pipe for my turbo(po ran it that way)
I tried using a nylon strap wrench on the hub and the helped some but I still can't get enough torque. I cut the old serpentine belt and tried using that but still not enough.
Would i be able to use the inspection cover on the bell housing and block the flex plate from spinning. I know the torque tube sees plenty of torque anyway, I just don't want to mess anything up
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
The tool that is used locks into the flex plate through the starter opening. I personally wouldn't jam a screwdriver or something in there.
Do you have the actual GM tool or something like that? You might be able to make a jig to hold the tool to the bell housing cover bolts to hold the tool.
Here is a tool available at Autozone, not sure if it can be rented but you might be able to adapt it: Flywheel Locking Tool
One other option, if you have some help, would be to use a flywheel turning tool and lock it on and against the ground or have a helper hold it. Just not sure that tool will take the torque applied as it is not real robust in its construction.
Do you have the actual GM tool or something like that? You might be able to make a jig to hold the tool to the bell housing cover bolts to hold the tool.
Here is a tool available at Autozone, not sure if it can be rented but you might be able to adapt it: Flywheel Locking Tool
One other option, if you have some help, would be to use a flywheel turning tool and lock it on and against the ground or have a helper hold it. Just not sure that tool will take the torque applied as it is not real robust in its construction.
Last edited by vettenuts; Jul 20, 2016 at 09:22 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 405
Likes: 5
I'm trying to avoid taking the starter out.all those tools from my understanding have to go in where the starter is. I didn't think you could get to the teeth of the flexplate from the inspection cover.
I am thinking about grabbing the slip joint connector with an adjustable or an open end wrench
I am thinking about grabbing the slip joint connector with an adjustable or an open end wrench
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
Remove the flywheel inspection cover and have a friend hold a large screw driver in the teeth. Worked great for me. Really any random piece of metal you can stick in there will work. the longer the better as it will give you more leverage, but you don't really need that much.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 478
From: OK
Last edited by 73Corvette; Jul 20, 2016 at 10:26 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I used a LARGE STRAP wrench and did the job my self. It held like a champ! See if you can find a better strap wrench.
Pictures to follow!
Look in Harbor FRIEIGHT
Pictures to follow!
Look in Harbor FRIEIGHT
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 20, 2016 at 10:38 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 405
Likes: 5
I have a good 12" strap wrench, but it wouldn't get a good enough grip on the hub of the ATI. I can try putting the other pulley on and putting the strap wrench on that.
I like that belt idea, that looks like it will grab really well.
Thanks for the help everyone
I like that belt idea, that looks like it will grab really well.
Thanks for the help everyone
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
If it is an aftermarket ARP bolt you are fine. They can be reused and a simple torque to value. (I went with an ARP bolt when I did mine)
Good luck.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You can use the old OEM bolt to properly SEAT the damper back onto the hub!
You should NEVER use the old or new OEM bolt to start the damper on to the hub!!! The OEM bolt is TOO SHORT and can RIP OUT or damage the first few threads in the crank snout!
NOTE. If you heat the damper HUB (the CENTER PART that slips onto the crank snout) up to approx. 150-200 deg, the damper will go on a whole lot easier.
Holding the damper to properly TORQUE the NEW One Time Use Torque to yield bolt OR torqueing the ARP Bolt can be an issue. Like I stated, my strap wrench worked fantastic!
BC
You should NEVER use the old or new OEM bolt to start the damper on to the hub!!! The OEM bolt is TOO SHORT and can RIP OUT or damage the first few threads in the crank snout!
NOTE. If you heat the damper HUB (the CENTER PART that slips onto the crank snout) up to approx. 150-200 deg, the damper will go on a whole lot easier.
Holding the damper to properly TORQUE the NEW One Time Use Torque to yield bolt OR torqueing the ARP Bolt can be an issue. Like I stated, my strap wrench worked fantastic!
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 20, 2016 at 05:10 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 398
From: Boise, ID
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
C5 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Flywheel holding tool was like 15$ on ebay but I did have to pull the starter. It's only 2 bolts and 2 nuts for the cables hooked to it, I believe you can pull it without removing the header.
Last edited by tommypenguin; Jul 20, 2016 at 05:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 456
From: USA
I changed my balancer and used the old belt (posted link above by 73Corvette) method to remove and install both. Worked great with no problems.
Good luck with your repair.
Good luck with your repair.
Last edited by zachaeous; Jul 20, 2016 at 06:08 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Doesn't the automatic also have the plastic fillers on each side of the engine at the front of the bellhousing? If so, take the one off the passenger side and use a pry bar against the flexplate teeth.
