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I am sure this has been asked before but i am not very good at searching for stuff. To replace the clutch would it be easier and quicker to pull the motor, or at least pull the radiator out and slide the motor forward and leave the rear cradle alone? I am getting ready to have to do this and dont really want to have to pull the rear end out. Also what is the damage that could happen if i let the motor rest against the firewall?
I have done my clutch a few times and you will NOT hit the firewall when you drop the rear cradle. The rear end is very easy to pull out and I mean easy..I think I can do my clutch in a few here is the how to just download it ..
also the car is pretty well stock, may see a few runs at the track just to see what it will do, i dont plan on doing any mods for a few years and kinda on a tight budget right now
I have a Mcleod twin disk I love mine..Not cheap.. you are going to get all types of options but for a few bolt on seems like the ls7 is the way to go and its cheap.
I have a Mcleod twin disk I love mine..Not cheap.. you are going to get all types of options but for a few bolt on seems like the ls7 is the way to go and its cheap.
And what about the flywheel, I have never worried about balancing clutch assemblies in the past. I just put a new one in my cobra about a month ago, just had the flywheel turned and went with it. 0 vibrations or anything like that, and ill spin it up to 7100 no problems what so ever.
Tha balance issue was more predomint in the Z06, however mark the existing clutch up good relative to the crank, flywheel and pressure plate as if you needed to reinstall it after removal. This at least preserves the orientation should it be needed. I would also read the balance threads so you are aware of the issues some have had.
Not sure of the year/model of your car but the torque tube bushings and bearings may need attention while its apart. If you don't have the cash and are not having an issue, you can leave it alone if you are comfortable having to take it apart again later. Just something to consider.
If you are going to leave it stock or just bolt on mods, then the Z06 clutch, flywheel and Slave cylinder are the best way to go. The LS7 wheel is 10 lbs heavier and of no benefit on a stock engine. While the clutch is out also install a remote bleeder and new pilot bearing and as suggested above, new torque tube bearings.
On the balancing of the clutch assembly, I have read that you can do it with a tire balancer, if this is true shouldn't I just pull the old clutch assembly with marking how everything came out, throw it on the balancer ( I have a friend that has a computer balancer) and match the new setup to where the old balances at? If so what do you use for weights? Do you add weights or drill the flywheel to achieve the desired balance?
On the balancing of the clutch assembly, I have read that you can do it with a tire balancer, if this is true shouldn't I just pull the old clutch assembly with marking how everything came out, throw it on the balancer ( I have a friend that has a computer balancer) and match the new setup to where the old balances at? If so what do you use for weights? Do you add weights or drill the flywheel to achieve the desired balance?
NO! A tire balancer WILL NOT work!
Here are some post for you to BONE UP ON before you do you clutch. If you install a new OEM clutch, you should NOT have any shimming issues to worry about. That comes into play when you install aftermarket parts. You need to be concerned with HOT BALANCE of the old flywheel/pressure plate and then have the new stuff MATCHED BALANCED to the old stuff.
- - C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971 <http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3403737-vibration-after-new-clutch-install.html#post1585950971> C5, C6, C7 HOT BALANCE See time stamp at approx 8
Ok I finally got my clutch in and everything back together now the car just starts up and dies. Has anybody ran into this after replacing clutch? It seems like there is no fuel pressure if that helps at all.
WELL.......... Thats a broad issue. Lets try this:
Read and post the DTCs using the DIC and post the results. I recommend CLEARING ALL the DTCs and then see what comes back and report that.
What is the status of your SECURITY LIGHT when the key is ON???
Just something that USUALLY happens when this type of work is accomplished is the GROUND G-106 is not reconnected. Not saying thats your issue but, it may be. Seen the exact same thing tooooo many times.
The security light flashes a few times and then goes off, I didn't disconnect any wires from the engine side of Things other then the o2 sensors, I didn't take off the starter or even the bell housing. It's not showing a check engine light on anything either when t does run