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Rob,
I will check 87 & 30 grds tomorrow with power from battery, I physically pulled the fuse 17 and checked it with a meter and it was good. What can cause lost voltage at 86 & 85?
This might be the longest problem that was found in forum history but I chased this again after putting it on the shelf for years.
It turned out to be the fuse box, at one point before I took ownership, this fuse box was hit with some water.
The bottom part of the fuse box was corroded and a wire had broken lose.
I need a new fuse box and I am currently cleaning all the wiring.
The tonneau relay and the fuse was in the area that was corroded.
Thank you JD911 and C5Diag for inspiring me after 4 years??
I knew right away that this was my issue when I saw the black bottom cover, covered with rust and oxidation from copper wires.
The orange wire was totally lose and missing the terminal pin when I pulled this bottom connector, I ordered a used harness with connectors and pins complete and I will take out the same color wire and will re pin it, splice it in, solder & and heat shrink it.
Here is the fuse box and the damage that was done to the pins
You can see the pins clearly deteriorated, I could not use this box and purchased a used one, waiting for it to come in.
The pin that was in the worst condition was the one that was connected relay 41 (TONN REL)
This might be the longest problem that was found in forum history but I chased this again after putting it on the shelf for years.
It turned out to be the fuse box, at one point before I took ownership, this fuse box was hit with some water.
The bottom part of the fuse box was corroded and a wire had broken lose.
I need a new fuse box and I am currently cleaning all the wiring.
The tonneau relay and the fuse was in the area that was corroded.
Thank you JD911 and C5Diag for inspiring me after 4 years??
Glad you found it !!…better late than never…LOL
!!
Updated:
I installed a used fuse box that I obtained, I also repaired an orange wire that was broken loose and thought that this would be fixed.
The hatch button still does not work.
*I do have voltage now at the fuse #17 as well as the relay #41 that I did not have with the damaged fuse box. *No DIC codes with old or new fuse box
*Everything in the car works as it should except for this tonneau button and circuit.
The manual asks for scanner to diagnose switch signals, I don't have that scanner.
I am not getting voltage to the tonneau button nor the latch ajar connector.
I feel I am half way there but concerned that perhaps the water intrusion did more damage to perhaps the BCM??
Also, because of the damage to the fuse box, I am thinking my issues are by the IP area and not downstream by the latch and button.
I feel I am half way there but concerned that perhaps the water intrusion did more damage to perhaps the BCM??
Also, because of the damage to the fuse box, I am thinking my issues are by the IP area and not downstream by the latch and button.
Given the corrosion in the old fuse box have you checked under the battery tray to see if it maybe had one of those early batteries that cracked and leaked acid on the component under the tray?
How much of that corroded harness did you replace? Is it possible some corrosion wicked up the copper wire inside the insulation and is still there?
Given the corrosion in the old fuse box have you checked under the battery tray to see if it maybe had one of those early batteries that cracked and leaked acid on the component under the tray?
How much of that corroded harness did you replace? Is it possible some corrosion wicked up the copper wire inside the insulation and is still there?
Thanks for your reply
Yes the AGM battery was the first thing I did when I got the car. Everything below was good as well as the PCM and all the wires to it. I pulled the cover off the pass wheel-well years ago to clean the udders and I inspected all the wiring at the time.
I got this pretty clean with CRC QD contact cleaner, I hit it twice more after this photo and even used a Q-tip to get everything spotless, I pulled each wire to make sure they were good but did not do a continuity check on each wire.
The only wire that I repaired was the orange wire you see loose in the photo, the wire had nothing to do with the relay or the fuse.
Hi Rob,
The fuse 17 has voltage, the relay top right socket #86 has voltage
All relays should have 2 power sources...with a 12 volt test light do you see 2 ??...you said 86 which is the control side...87 is the power feed side...I don't remember if you swapped relays...the BCM grounds the control side ( see schematic) which closes the contact to allow power to the actuator...to see if the the control side is being grounded we can use the 12 volt test light.
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