I recently purchased a 99 c5 that has been a joy to drive. I'm happy with the way it is set up so I have been wanted to put some money into the general maintenance aspect of it. During the PPI, my mechanic told me it had a 'slight' wobble in it - at the time I wasn't aware of how common an issue this is - my questions are:

1. I don't really know what a 'bad' wobble vs a 'slight' wobble look like so I posted a video - if anyone could take a look and share an opinion that would be great.

2. This car is DD - is the powerbond pulley and ARP bolt the route to go?

3. I read a bit on people changing the underdrive pulley as well - is this needed or a performance mod

4. I would also change the A/C tensioner too (mechanic said it was 'slightly leaning') - is there anything else that I should change while I am at it? Gaskets/other pulleys etc?

Thanks!

CLIFFS: Posted a video, how bad is the wobble? Which kit is preferred and what else should I change while in there.

 

Don't see anything that would concern me on the balancer.

Here's the issue, to get to the balancer the steering rack, radiator, water pump, pullies, tensioners, alternator, power steering pump, fans, air intake (not manifold), throttle body, and host of other little things have to be removed.

My 99 has 110k on the clock. I had leaks at the A/C compressor, the crank seal, and 2 power steering hoses. I just finished this project which was started in January.

Here is a list of everything that was done:

1. Radiator, upper, lower, 2 heater hoses & Reservoir to block hose.
2. A/C compressor, dryer, condenser, orifice valve, suction filter, and Compressor hose.
3. Front inner and outer tie rod ends, rack bellows
4. Repair ERG line to solenoid
5. Adjustable Sway Bar Links – Ft & Rear
6. 180 degree thermostat
7. Accessory tensioner, belt, idler
8. A/C tensioner, belt, idler
9. Titanium exhaust & gaskets
10. Balancer – Powerbond PB1117-SS, Arp Crank Bolt & front cover seals
11. Cam chain & gears (Progear & Arp bolts)
12. Melling high volume oil pump - clearance is .002
13. Water pump gaskets
14. Coolant bypass
15. Power Steering hoses (3) & Royal Purple PS fluid
16. Repair passenger side PCV line
17. Victor Renz throttle body gasket
18. Polyurethane Motor Mounts – Level Zero Motorsports
19. Oil/Filter change
20. Dexcool/Distilled Water & Waterwetter
21. Corvette Mods Trunion upgrade & Valve cover gaskets
22. 4 wheel alignment
23. Check and gap spark plugs

I figured that since everything that I replaced either had to be removed or would require removing similar parts again, that doing this would keep me out of the front of the engine bay for a long time.

Marc

 

I disagree, somewhat. In the video posted, I think the balancer look OK....for the moment, of course.

With respect to swapping them out, I think you've overstated what needs to be removed, in order to swap balancers, as I did this job a couple of years ago. I'm one of those "while I'm in there" kind of people, so I figured I'd upgrade to an LS2 timing chain and the Trick Flow timing chain guide kits, while I was doing the balancer swap. Therefore, I did have to remove more items, since I had to remove the timing cover from the engine.

However, to replace just the balancer (and timing cover seal), I think all you'd need to remove is the steering rack, and as long as you got the car (safely!!) up off the ground about 18-22", you could R&R the balancer, by working from the underside of the car.

 

How many miles are on the car? If the car has 50k or so miles on it, you might want to consider replacing the water pump, hoses and radiator while you're in there. Both are cheap and the radiator will have to come out to replace the balancer anyway. Pulleys and belts are easy to change any time but it wouldn't hurt to change them now -you'll know they'll be OK for several more years.

 

You've posted this in Tech and General. In the future, just post in the appropriate section.

 

I assume that one would not replace the balancer without replacing the front cover gasket and the seal. You can not remove the timing cover without removing the water pump. The fans and radiator have to be removed to get the puller on the balancer.

The OP asked "is there anything else that I should change while I am at it?" I posted the information so that he could see a comprehensive list of items to consider. Of course he will decide based on mileage, condition, and budget what needs to be done.

Marc

 

If the timing cover is not being disturbed, which it doesn't have to be, just to remove the balancer, then there's no need to remove it and replace the gasket. The seal CAN be replaced with the cover still in place, on the engine. The ONLY reason I removed the timing cover, which then required the removal of the water pump, was because I decided to replace the timing chain.

As I stated in my post, I HAVE DONE THIS JOB, and I did NOT remove the radiator.....

 

My apologies, as I did not intend to offend. I realize that the seal can be replaced without removing the cover or water pump. My only point was why not replace the cover gasket if you are that far into the engine. Just a difference in opinion.

I defer to you on being able to remove the balancer without removing the radiator, with my tools, I could not.

Hope we are good.

Marc

 

IMHO. I don't see anything to be concerned about. HOWEVER, the OEM dampener is not very reliable and can get worse in a short time period.

YES, the Powerbond/ DAYCO dampener is a very good replacement dampener.

The OEM LS1/6 Timing chain is weak and IF, you ever do this job, I highly recommend removing the cover and replacing the chain with a LS2 or better chain. Your LS1 chain will have LOTS of slack in it.

 

Not a problem, but I was just attempting to pass on some information to anyone that might be contemplating this job, and then thinks, "Holy crap, look at all the stuff I have to pull off, just to replace the balancer", which in turn, turns them off to doing the job. I've been working on cars, as a hobby, for close to 50 years, and have found myself either removing too much stuff, or found what was to be a simple job, "flourish" into a major disassembly task.

If I can help anyone avoid the pitfalls, I try to do so.

 

Tech People at Texas Speed & Performance told me NOT to use a high volume pump with a batwing oil pan , said it can suck the relatively shallow sump dry under some conditions.....