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00, 6 speed, 177k, all stock and kinda staying that way.
I'm putting on powerbond oe pb1117n
1) Can this be done from topside? I was planning removing radiator and water pump to clean up the grime build up. Something has been leaking.
2) Is the new stock bolt ok since arp is 5 times proud of thiers?
3) What gaskets and seals do I need knowing what I'm removing?
4) With the front opened up for cleaning, is there any thing else I might change while I'm at it? I'm not looking to beef up here just clean up and get it running like a top.
5) about the only thing I may change is the entire exhaust system, headers to tail pipes. Is the powerbond oe balancer ok for very minor mods?
I don't have a clue what I'm reading about when I see 10% or 25% overdive or underdrive. I've even seen a 5% balancer for sale on rockauto.
thanks for the help folks
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
1) Can this be done from topside?
The P/s rack has to be moved
2) Is the new stock bolt ok
Sure as long as you know how to use the TTY specs to get tightened right
3) What gaskets and seals do I need knowing what I'm removing?
Water pump and front crank seals
4) With the front opened up for cleaning, is there any thing else I might change while I'm at it?
That question opens up more parts ans seals to be replaced
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
1- it can be done from up top however it is very uncomfortable for me personally because of the way the hood opens... if you remove the hood it will be easier in my opinion but again I wouldn't want to mess with realigning the hood afterwards and I work alone most of the time so it's easier for me to just get under the car
2- a NEW oem bolt is fine but the arp is worth the money in my opinion since it is reusable and is easier to torque
3 & 4- at a minimum I would replace the front cover gasket and main seal since you are there, waterpump gaskets if you end up removing that... if you see anything along the way that needs attention then take care of it accordingly
5- that balancer will work fine, overdrive balancers are most common on supercharged cars and underdrive balancers have their own issues so personally I would stick with the stock diameter
I doubt the job can be done totally from the top side. Removing the steering rack pretty much requires getting under the car. I can't see how else to do it. Once the car is up on jack stands, radiator and fans are out of the way, it's easy to sit under the car, remove and replace the balancer.
Nothing wrong with the stock bolt. ARP bolt is only worthwhile if you plan on doing this often, which is probably not the case.
Gaskets are mentioned above and don't need to be restated. You might want to consider replacing the water pump, radiator and hoses since you're in there. All are relative cheap and prone to failure after so many miles and so much time.
PowerBond balancer is a good choice. They have proven to be very reliable.
From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
Here are the notes I have based on a ton of research I did on this recently, from this forum:
"Guidance is to replace steering rack bushings while at it, since steering rack needs to be dropped. Also to possibly pin the balancer to the crank, and use a bolt with red loctite. Also replace front crankshaft seal as part of job. And possibly the ball joint boots."
Those extra parts are very inexpensive, might as well replace them while you're in there.
Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; May 18, 2017 at 01:13 PM.
What are decent brand timing chain and gears? I shop rockauto and advanced a lot but their are some times when it's needed to purchase the auto maker product
What are decent brand timing chain and gears? I shop rockauto and advanced a lot but their are some times when it's needed to purchase the auto maker product
After a lot of research I chose the Progear LS1 set:
I wanted a chain that was matched to the gears. The chain is noticeably thicker and the link pins are larger as well. The gears are billet and fit perfectly. About $120.
I wanted a chain that was matched to the gears. The chain is noticeably thicker and the link pins are larger as well. The gears are billet and fit perfectly. About $120.
Well now I have to know why would I think about changing the cam. I don't want to build a faster machine cause it's fast enough for me. I want more efficiency and reliability/longevity to avoid repairs and reduce operating cost. This is weekend car.
As has already been mentioned, you have to remove the steering rack, therefore the car will have to be off the ground (and properly supported) to remove the front tires, to be able to remove the rack. At that point, doing it from the top or bottom, is a "toss-up". When I did mine, I worked primarily from underneath, but since I changed the timing chain (to an LS2 piece), I had to remove the water pump and timing cover, so in reality, I was working from both the top and bottom.
"allrighty then" I'll be lifting the car up to do the work from below. Please keep the info coming as i build up confidence to some of these things. I do have buddy that's a master gm tech to lean on so that helps.
I read some info on lifting the car and watched some video as well but it's mostly about the owners manual lifting points. I built pucks and ramps to work when I don't need to remove the tires and want to know if that's the frame rail directly under the doors and if protected (24"x 2"x4") can I set my jacks there. The frame appears to go upward as it approches the engine area. I'm guessing I need to lift it about 20" or so.
"allrighty then" I'll be lifting the car up to do the work from below. Please keep the info coming as i build up confidence to some of these things. I do have buddy that's a master gm tech to lean on so that helps.
I read some info on lifting the car and watched some video as well but it's mostly about the owners manual lifting points. I built pucks and ramps to work when I don't need to remove the tires and want to know if that's the frame rail directly under the doors and if protected (24"x 2"x4") can I set my jacks there. The frame appears to go upward as it approches the engine area. I'm guessing I need to lift it about 20" or so.
The 4 puck points are ok for jacking, as long as you go slow and check clearance with the fender. I DO NOT think they're good jackstand points tho, maybe a flat top jackstand would work, but it still seems a bit sketchy. There are 2 circular "nipple" looking dimple points on the back of the front subframe, pretty sure those are GM recommended points for jackstands. A flat topped stand or a pinch type stand seats nicely on those things.
Check them out.
Last edited by ArtClassShank; May 19, 2017 at 01:35 PM.
The FRONT COVER GASKET can fit onto the block in either direction. HOWEVER,,, ,,,, There is only ONE correct orientation. If you accidently install it 180 out, you will have a big oil leak!!!
I put some heat on the damper hub to make it come off and reinstall a LOT easier.
150-180 deg is all you need. You will be amazed at how much easier it is if you heat it with a heat gun or small Propane torch.
I'm a bit lucky, in a sense, because my late father was a district manager for the Toledo Scale Company, and he was able to obtain 4 of these scale "test weights". They weigh 50 pounds each, and are quite stable. He originally used them for "winter ballast", in the trunk of his cars. I now use them, set up on end, along with a short piece of 2x4 (or two) under the "jacking pucks".
Harmonic Balancer change out
,,,, There is only ONE correct orientation. If you accidently install it 180 out, you will have a big oil leak!!!
