my 02 5.3 has done it since it was brand new there is no fix
sometimes, not bad at all other times is sounds like its going to break.

Best thing you can do is run 10/30 dino oil and not use syn to quiet it down... or sell the car.

 

I thought running anything other than mobil 1 was a big no-no...

 

Mine hasn't seen Mobil-1 since it left the assembly line.

 

M1 works fine. So does Castrol, Pennzoil, Amsoil, Redline, Joe Gibbs etc etc. Your factory motor in your street car will never know the difference.

 

Try Mobil 1 high mileage. I noticed my valve train seems quieter with it than with regular Mobil 1.

 

run amsoil or redline 15/50 oil or... by a mustang lol

if you knew mechanics, you would know that lifter noise is a good thing

turning up the radio woks good too or get a louder exhaust Billy boats will work!

 

Its REALLY BAD for Mobil.... Your engine wont care one bit. The New PENZOIL Platinum is good stuff!!

 

The only reason I use mobile 1 is because I don't have any reason to change brands.
If I ever have problems I might consider something else.

 

Over the past year, my 2003 LS1 developed a more pronounced ticking at about 1800 RPM during light acceleration when cold and at idle. I have always been using mid grade gas with about 5% ethanol along with a K&N oil filter and Mobil or Castrol 5W30 synthetic. The car has never burned a drop of oil. I had a hunch that the noise may be attributed to carbon buildup on the valves.

On the last oil change, I switched over to conventional Valvoline 5W30 and noticed within 2000 km unusually blackened oil and slightly less noise. I then added a bottle of STP oil treatment and the noise has almost entirely been eliminated, it is back to the level at which I never had any issue with it. This fix actually had a negative cost as compared with using synthetic oil.

 

Your car will run better if you stop using midgrade, and run at least 91 octane premium, and preferably 93 octane. Midgrade is probably forcing the ECM to pull timing slightly.

 

I've run low grade for almost 80,000 miles and my car has always ran fine on it. I did a lot of data logging one summer and never captured a time it pulled timing. The weather here isn't particularly hot compared to the more southern USA states where a C5 probably does need higher grade fuel to run well where it actually is hot and humid.

Mobil gave GM a very good deal on the initial fill oil in exchange for putting their logo on the oil fill cap. It means nothing really, the oil specification in the manual is what was required in the engine. Now, you can't even get oil with that specification anymore.

 

I wouldn't run dyno oil , but certainly don't mind when others do. My reason is simple, the LS 1 engine is designed in such a way that it requires synthetic oil to run within design specifications. I know the proven design specs say this engine will go 200, 000 miles.

if one runs the lubrication system with parts outside of the design specification, one can't expect the system to preform as designed. Same thing with fuel selection. had I the engineering chops to modify this design for the better , things might be different. As it is, the stock design meets my needs pretty well.

if it helps, my LS 1, built in late 2002 as a 2003 model, is high milage and has no objectionable noise upon startup , but I do live in a temperate climate. I could hear the change in the idle when I set the spark plug gap to the new specs, sounded a little smoother, more uniform sounding, so my stock engine can't be that loud, but the radio is on, whenever a tire is turning.

Burns close to probably a pint of oil in about six thousand miles, I don't really track it once it showed so little oil consumption between changes. I select an oil that is as close as conveniently possible to the original specifications. Years ago the mobil help line said high milage 5 -30 was the call, but I haven't checked for updates, and formulations change with the market demands.

 

So did u change the dirty oil and put conviecal back in. If u have any concerns about using conventional oil don't be, these days the even the cheaper conventional oils are superior from the oil back in the days of changing oil every 3k.

Yes conventional oils break down around 260 270 ish and synthetic breacks down over 400 but when does ur oil go over 260. Only if u track it.

 

As for data logging, and seeing no KR, that's interesting. I did that also, when my original LS1 was totally stock, and under certain conditions I definitely saw timing being pulled, and that was while running 93 octane Premium. I know there are a lot of variables, but it's interesting you saw no timing being pulled running 87 octane fuel......

 

"Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 100-200 miles. The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 2000-3000 miles."

Cause:
"The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil."