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TPS connector wiring takes a sharp bend. Is this factory length.?
Connectors on PCM clean. Housing corroded
Housing corroded.
2001 Automatic 65000 miles. Hard start and Reduced Power Mode. Code 1518. I'm checking what may be the cause and thought I'd post some pics and ask a few questions. The PCM connectors were taped with electrical tape and I doubt if they came that way. I unwrapped one and it was clean and still had di-elec grease on it. Will check the rest later. The TPS connector wiring is short and has to make a sharp bend. The harness is connected with snaps (factory) by the fuel rail so there isn't way to add length.?? Is this short harness factory or will the TPS attach in a different position? The PCM case is corroded but the connectors themselves are in good shape. The TC Module visibly looks okay. I checked the maintenance records from Chevy garage (previous owner) and the TPS was changed at 19000 + miles and again at 39000+ miles. I suspect this is the cause of the 1518 code and reduced power. I'll be changing the TPS in a few days and will let you know if it corrects the problem.
LOL!! You cant really go too much further till the 1518 code is resolved.
Once you get that resolved, let us know what you have.
Bill
Thanks for reply. Picking up TPS tomorrow so should have it in by early next week. Putting new window motor in my C-3 right now. Would rather do an engine swap.
Cleaned and reinstalled all the computer PCM/TCM and connectors and applied some di-elec grease. The connectors were pretty clean. There was a nut plate and screw missing on the access panel that left a hole where water and debris was coming through. Engine started right up and let it run for awhile while running RPM up. No reduce power. I have a TPS coming in Monday. I'll drive it and keep new TPS in the car in case the gremlin is hiding and waiting to strand me. Will post update.
Two TPS sensors in 39K miles and now you have the problem again. It seems kind of unusual to have that same part fail three times. If the problem comes back I would take a very close look at the wiring and connectors for that circuit. I don't recall reading reading that the TPS had a high failure rate like some other electrical components.
Two TPS sensors in 39K miles and now you have the problem again. It seems kind of unusual to have that same part fail three times. If the problem comes back I would take a very close look at the wiring and connectors for that circuit. I don't recall reading reading that the TPS had a high failure rate like some other electrical components.
I agree. That sharp bend in the TPS connector is worrisome. If it acts up again I'm going to remove the elec harness and get some slack in it. I'm not replacing the TPS until it's the last resort. It's fixed just upstream by the fuel rails and I'll remove it there. It has slack on the backside where it's fastened. I will check the other connectors that has all that black elec tape someone wrapped around it. Thanks for the reply. Just love driving this car..
Removed the tape covering these connectors. Did see some slight moisture inside. Only one had a tiny film of Di- Elec grease. Guessing it was grease. Question: Are the ends of these connectors open like this direct from factory? A few weeks ago we did run into some two hours of heavy rain coming out of Canada. Will put some grease on them but I'll let them dry out overnight. If there suppose to be a cover over them I'll have to come up with something besides tape. Any suggestions welcome.
Tracking down intermittent starts and no comm problems. Pulled ignition switch and found corrosion on F pin. Can't get one connector off switch. (See Pic) I can still clean connectors if I don't get it off. Will do follow up after I reassemble...
Corroded F connector
Corroded F pin
Connector only comes halfway off. Am I missing a clip?
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Disconnect the park/lock cable (A/T) from the ignition switch.
Insert the key into the ignition switch, then turn the ignition to ON.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver or other suitable tool, depress the park/lock cable retaining tab (located on the underside of the switch near the base of the cable).
Pull to remove the cable.
Disconnect the park/lock cable (A/T) from the ignition switch.
Insert the key into the ignition switch, then turn the ignition to ON.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver or other suitable tool, depress the park/lock cable retaining tab (located on the underside of the switch near the base of the cable).
Pull to remove the cable.
Final post. All codes, starting issues and reduce power seem to be solved by changing ignition switch. No other components changed. Pulled old switch and noticed connector had burnt pins. Ordered new switch and installed. Disassembled old switch and found several other contacts that had burn spots on them. Will clean old switch up and leave it lay on the work bench for twenty plus years with other stuff I never throw away, Thanks again for all you help...
LOL!! You cant really go too much further till the 1518 code is resolved.
Once you get that resolved, let us know what you have.
Bill
I changed the ignition switch (old one had burnt contacts) and it solved all of my original problems. It was the only component I changed. I put 400 miles on it today and probably another 400 tomorrow. Thanks again for your input and the rest of the guys.
REduce Power Mode
