Harmonic balancer question.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 117
Likes: 17
From: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Harmonic balancer question.
In the process of doing my harmonic balancer. Car is completely stock just want to replace with a good balancer stock size. Looking at powerbond but really don't know which one will be the right one. I know this subject is beat to death on the forum just looking for stock replacement so I don't have to do this again. Also should I take out the radiator to give me more room? And where do I get the pin kit to pin to the crank or should I even do it. Car will probably always be pretty much stock except for exhaust. 2004 base coup 6 speed. Thank you for your suggestions.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,735
Likes: 1,203
From: Wisconsin
i don't have a recommendation for the powerbond, lots of people on here use them thou. You do not need to pull the radiator and do not need to pin the balancer to the crank. Its overkill on a stock car and not needed for a properly installed balancer.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 456
From: USA
I used a PowerBond balancer on my c5. It was the stock replacement unit Powerbond-PB1117N. Been on over a year and still running true and quite.
I also used the ARP Bolt.
I also used the ARP Bolt.
Last edited by zachaeous; Aug 21, 2017 at 08:37 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Powerbond For The Win ~
There are 2 choices here, both are stock diameter:
PB1117N - Premium quality (compared to OE). Better quality than OE GM!
PB1117SS - "Race" series premium quality. Note: the "race" series all have retaining rings on the front and rear faces, to prevent the outer hub from ever walking forward or rearward if the rubber bond should ever separate. Mounts just like stock no special tools needed.
Use an ARP bolt (it is reusable) and do NOT try to use the old bolt (or the ARP bolt) to pull the new balancer onto the crank during installation. Buy, borrow, or make, an installation tool to install.
I chose the "race" series several years ago due to it's premium quality and construction. No issues.
HTH
http://www.daycoproducts.com/parts?c...cription=11581
Shop around. Prices vary a lot.
PB1117N - Premium quality (compared to OE). Better quality than OE GM!
PB1117SS - "Race" series premium quality. Note: the "race" series all have retaining rings on the front and rear faces, to prevent the outer hub from ever walking forward or rearward if the rubber bond should ever separate. Mounts just like stock no special tools needed.
Use an ARP bolt (it is reusable) and do NOT try to use the old bolt (or the ARP bolt) to pull the new balancer onto the crank during installation. Buy, borrow, or make, an installation tool to install.
I chose the "race" series several years ago due to it's premium quality and construction. No issues.
HTH
http://www.daycoproducts.com/parts?c...cription=11581
Shop around. Prices vary a lot.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 590
Likes: 134
From: Hanover Maryland
I have all the parts, haven't installed yet. Think the PB1117N balancer + ARP bolt + front crank seal was around $150 total. JEGs and Summit Racing is where I got them IIRC.
Last edited by ArtClassShank; Aug 22, 2017 at 09:23 AM.
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
I installed the PowerBond premium balancer. Very nice piece! I too used the ARP Bolt!
I also pinned it to the crank because I raised my RPM limits and have a few more power than OEM.
STRONGLY recommend replacing the old front cover damper seal with a new improved seal!! The old one will become HARD and wear out the dampener sealing surface and you will get a bad leak. Ask me how I know!
If you pull the front cover, you will see that the OEM timing chain will be VERY sloppy. Good time to up-grade to an LS2 chain. if, YOU PULL THE COVER, MAKE SURE that you purchase a front cover centering tool and properly center the cover over the crank snout.
PS.. The front cover gasket will fit on the block both ways.
There is only ONE correct way that it goes on the block or you will have an OIL LEAK on the drivers side of the block.
Don't mess up that 50/50 chance of getting it correct by not looking for the correct way to mount it.
Bill
I also pinned it to the crank because I raised my RPM limits and have a few more power than OEM.
STRONGLY recommend replacing the old front cover damper seal with a new improved seal!! The old one will become HARD and wear out the dampener sealing surface and you will get a bad leak. Ask me how I know!
If you pull the front cover, you will see that the OEM timing chain will be VERY sloppy. Good time to up-grade to an LS2 chain. if, YOU PULL THE COVER, MAKE SURE that you purchase a front cover centering tool and properly center the cover over the crank snout.
PS.. The front cover gasket will fit on the block both ways.
There is only ONE correct way that it goes on the block or you will have an OIL LEAK on the drivers side of the block.
Don't mess up that 50/50 chance of getting it correct by not looking for the correct way to mount it.
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 25,044
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From: Virginia
St. Jude Donor '11