SOS: 2 Mechanics cannot figure out what's wrong
08-22-2017, 05:24 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
SOS: 2 Mechanics cannot figure out what's wrong
Most recent episode: After driving my year 2000 C5 for 2 hours on a freeway at 70 mph I stopped somewhere and turned off the engine then 10 minutes later tried to restart and ZERO SOUND. Someone tried to jump start me several times and same thing: engine wouldn't even turn over however, windows, horn and lights worked. It was suggested by jumpstarter and by AAA tower that diagnosis could be: (1) BATTERY (No; have new battery); (2) ALTERNATOR (No; have new alternator); (3) STARTER (my mechanic says no); (4) VOLTAGE REGULATOR (as I recall mechanic checked that). My mechanic says for the last two weeks he's had it, it starts up perfectly every time. In addition to the dead engine problem I have others which I wonder are related or not. Before the aforementioned stallout I had taken my car for other problems to another mechanic FOUR TIMES and he can't fix the following. MOST OF THE TIME: (1) my horn doesn't work, (2) the emergency flashers don't work, (3) the turn signal doesn't work. This is not merely inconvenientbut very dangerous. Can someone please help me? Neither of the two mechanics are Corvette specialists but right now I cannot afford the Corvette mechanic. I have to go on an out-of-town job interview this week and I can't trust my 'Vette. Thank you very much!
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SunnyRainbowHeart (08-22-2017)
08-22-2017, 07:57 PM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Reply to 8VETTE7
Thank you, 8VETTE7. I'm sorry I forgot to post what type of transmission because I was so anxious. My year 2000 C5 is an automatic.
We need more info to diagnose the no crank condition correctly. Is the car a manual or automatic trans. Starter circuits are different depending on which it is. MOST likely it will be the starter solenoid but a correct diagnosis needs to know manual or auto trans.....
Lets take the other issues one at a time:
A) Horn does not work. Wiring circuit for the horn system is pretty simple.
Attachment 48199013
The horn switches in the drivers side air bag cover could be bad, relay #36 or fuse #11 (both in the under hood fuse box) might be bad, the horns themselves or the grounds for the horns (both are under the car behind a closeout cover on the passenger front side) might be bad. A mechanic that can't find which item(s) is the cause cannot be much of a mechanic. JMHO
B) Emergency flashers don't work. This has to be the hazard switch itself. Not that difficult to repair. Here is a link that can help with that:
http://www.kd5fx.com/HSwitch/HSwitch.htm
Part is around $50 as I recall and the time to replace it is around 1 hour.
C) Turn Signals don't work. Well since the turn signal flasher function is a part of the Hazard flasher switch and the hazard flasher doesn't work, most likely replacement of the flasher switch will fix the turn signals. There is a possibility that the turn signals do not work for other reasons such as the multi function stalk is bad but any further analysis of the turn signals needs to await replacement of the hazard switch since it is an integral component in the turn signals....
Lets take the other issues one at a time:
A) Horn does not work. Wiring circuit for the horn system is pretty simple.
Attachment 48199013
The horn switches in the drivers side air bag cover could be bad, relay #36 or fuse #11 (both in the under hood fuse box) might be bad, the horns themselves or the grounds for the horns (both are under the car behind a closeout cover on the passenger front side) might be bad. A mechanic that can't find which item(s) is the cause cannot be much of a mechanic. JMHO
B) Emergency flashers don't work. This has to be the hazard switch itself. Not that difficult to repair. Here is a link that can help with that:
http://www.kd5fx.com/HSwitch/HSwitch.htm
Part is around $50 as I recall and the time to replace it is around 1 hour.
C) Turn Signals don't work. Well since the turn signal flasher function is a part of the Hazard flasher switch and the hazard flasher doesn't work, most likely replacement of the flasher switch will fix the turn signals. There is a possibility that the turn signals do not work for other reasons such as the multi function stalk is bad but any further analysis of the turn signals needs to await replacement of the hazard switch since it is an integral component in the turn signals....
08-22-2017, 08:05 PM
#4
Drifting
This same thing happened to me nothing would work. Its most likely the starter solenoid. Check the wires and see if they are burned or charred. The solenoid bolt could come loose and short everything out. But that is the first place I would check.
Take a bright flashlight between the passenger headers and look where the starter is check to see if the wires are burned?
Take a bright flashlight between the passenger headers and look where the starter is check to see if the wires are burned?
Last edited by corvet786c; 08-22-2017 at 08:07 PM.
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SunnyRainbowHeart (08-22-2017)
08-22-2017, 08:10 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
WHAT ONE MECHANIC SAID re HAZARD FLASHER not working
To KOZ: LOL. 
You will never believe what one of the 2 mechanics said about my hazard flasher being inoperative most of the time. He said excitedly: "DON'T USE THE HAZARD FLASHER! IT INTERFERES WITH THE HEADLIGHTS!"
As soon as I get a job I will switch to the mechanic who exclusively works on Corvettes and has over 6 bays dedicated to Corvettes. He is almost legendary for his knowledge of Corvettes. (BTW, he's in Gaithersburg, Maryland and the name of his shop is TONY'S CORVETTE.)
BTW, the cars that go in and out of Tony's are scrumptious; I salivate while gaping at the many models and years and after-market modifications.
You will never believe what one of the 2 mechanics said about my hazard flasher being inoperative most of the time. He said excitedly: "DON'T USE THE HAZARD FLASHER! IT INTERFERES WITH THE HEADLIGHTS!"
As soon as I get a job I will switch to the mechanic who exclusively works on Corvettes and has over 6 bays dedicated to Corvettes. He is almost legendary for his knowledge of Corvettes. (BTW, he's in Gaithersburg, Maryland and the name of his shop is TONY'S CORVETTE.)
BTW, the cars that go in and out of Tony's are scrumptious; I salivate while gaping at the many models and years and after-market modifications.
08-22-2017, 09:59 PM
#6
Team Owner
Had this issue many years ago with another car. Started to suspect the usual culprits, turned out the shifter was ever so slightly out of position so that the ignition didn't think the car was in Park. Everything worked, but no start, completely dead. Check that, its quick and doesn't cost a dime. 
08-23-2017, 01:21 AM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
RE: year 2000 auto C5 problems mechanic said weren't reflected in CODES
Thank you again, 8VETTE7. I have saved all of your advice in a Microsoft Word document and printed it out for the mechanic (NOT the other of the two mechanics to whom I took it 5 times who couldn't fix it.) As soon as I resume working--haven't been able to for a few years since my car collision in which a texting, speeding driver doing double the speed limit ran red light and crashed into my standing, non-Corvette car--I will go to the exclusively Corvette mechanic. He costs $275.00 an hour for labor which I can't afford right now.
What happens with the SECURITY light on the dash when you put the key in the ON position (NOT the START position) and leave it there for half a minute or more??? Does the security light go OUT or does it stay ON??? If it stays ON then the small pellet in the shank of the key is NOT being read correctly. If this happens then one or more codes would be set indicating the problem.
The following applies if the SECURITY light goes OUT:
No Crank on an automatic can be caused by several things.
New battery or not I would insure the battery is FULLY charged and can pass a load test before going on to any of the following..............
Here is the start diagram for the C5:
Any one or more of the following fuses in the IP fuse box could be bad. 50, 52 or 14. The IP fuse box is in the passenger foot well behind the toe kick at the end of the foot well.
If the fuses are good then the Park/Neutral Position switch could be bad or mal-adjusted. That switch is on the drivers side of the transmission.
If the carpet in the passenger foot well is wet then the BCM may have also gotten wet and is not providing the ground link to the Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR).
A person that knows what they are doing (which leaves out the mechanic that says don't use the flashers) can:
1) measure the voltage at the purple wire in the diagram above while another person holds the key in the start position. If the voltage reads 12.5 volts or more then the issue is at the starter or starter solenoid.
2) jumper the red wire to the purple wire while the car is in park and see if the starter turns. If it turns then the TDR is bad. If the starter does not turn then the starter or starter solenoid are bad.
The following applies if the SECURITY light goes OUT:
No Crank on an automatic can be caused by several things.
New battery or not I would insure the battery is FULLY charged and can pass a load test before going on to any of the following..............
Here is the start diagram for the C5:
Any one or more of the following fuses in the IP fuse box could be bad. 50, 52 or 14. The IP fuse box is in the passenger foot well behind the toe kick at the end of the foot well.
If the fuses are good then the Park/Neutral Position switch could be bad or mal-adjusted. That switch is on the drivers side of the transmission.
If the carpet in the passenger foot well is wet then the BCM may have also gotten wet and is not providing the ground link to the Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR).
A person that knows what they are doing (which leaves out the mechanic that says don't use the flashers) can:
1) measure the voltage at the purple wire in the diagram above while another person holds the key in the start position. If the voltage reads 12.5 volts or more then the issue is at the starter or starter solenoid.
2) jumper the red wire to the purple wire while the car is in park and see if the starter turns. If it turns then the TDR is bad. If the starter does not turn then the starter or starter solenoid are bad.
08-23-2017, 02:00 AM
#8
Had this issue many years ago with another car. Started to suspect the usual culprits, turned out the shifter was ever so slightly out of position so that the ignition didn't think the car was in Park. Everything worked, but no start, completely dead. Check that, its quick and doesn't cost a dime.
We have had something similar with our Nissan Altima (or Maxima.. we had both cars). Absolutely freaky until you figure out to push against the stops when in doubt.
08-23-2017, 02:03 AM
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
RE: Getting DIC Codes for C5
What a wonderful video, 8VETTE7. I will certainly take notes on it then in addition take my laptop to my mechanic and have him watch this start to finish, also giving him the notes on it. Actually I'll write down the full transcription.
Thread Starter,
In your other thread about your C5 issues you mention that the people you had working on the car, I will not refer to them as mechanics, told you there were "NO CODES".
Since we do NOT know what they used to look at the codes, it is entirely possible that they could NOT see vehicle specific code but rather only saw that there were no emissions codes.
I suggest that you pull and post ALL the codes that are stored on your car. This is easily done and here is a video on how YOU can do that:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
Watch it carefully and if need be take notes before you go out to the car to pull your codes.
List ALL the codes stored including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes with the sensor they appear under. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM.... etc.... If NO COMM appears next to any of the sensors post that as well. The more factual information available the more easily the problems will be identified.
In your other thread about your C5 issues you mention that the people you had working on the car, I will not refer to them as mechanics, told you there were "NO CODES".
Since we do NOT know what they used to look at the codes, it is entirely possible that they could NOT see vehicle specific code but rather only saw that there were no emissions codes.
I suggest that you pull and post ALL the codes that are stored on your car. This is easily done and here is a video on how YOU can do that:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4
Watch it carefully and if need be take notes before you go out to the car to pull your codes.
List ALL the codes stored including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes with the sensor they appear under. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM.... etc.... If NO COMM appears next to any of the sensors post that as well. The more factual information available the more easily the problems will be identified.
08-23-2017, 01:42 PM
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
08-23-2017, 01:53 PM
#11
Race Director
i see you are in the DC area.....Joe Baird from Baird automotive, washington Blvd in Arlington by virginia square Metro is a top notch mechanic and personally owns corvettes. he is in the $95 an hour range and he is my go to guy for anything serious.
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SunnyRainbowHeart (08-23-2017)
08-23-2017, 02:02 PM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Re: DC area CORVETTE MECHANIC SOURCE
Thank you so much for this valuable information. I'd only known about Tony's Corvette in Gaithersburg.
08-23-2017, 02:17 PM
#14
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thank you again, 8VETTE7. I have saved all of your advice in a Microsoft Word document and printed it out for the mechanic (NOT the other of the two mechanics to whom I took it 5 times who couldn't fix it.) As soon as I resume working--haven't been able to for a few years since my car collision in which a texting, speeding driver doing double the speed limit ran red light and crashed into my standing, non-Corvette car--I will go to the exclusively Corvette mechanic. He costs $275.00 an hour for labor which I can't afford right now.
:crazy :HOLY CRAP! Tell Tony to go to LUNCH!
There are TOO MANY excellent Corvette Specialist in your area to even think about spending that much for LABOR!
Check out this shop.
I put my name on his reputation and service!
Call Rick and talk to him about the service that you need. He will make you HAPPY! Rick Kim
http://www.rktperformance.com/
RKT56
http://rktperformance.com
Phone number: 301-257-0930
5400 Yukon Court, # 400
Frederick, MD 21703
GOOGLE MAPS DIRECTION 52 Miles
Bill Curlee
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 08-23-2017 at 02:34 PM.
08-23-2017, 02:19 PM
#15
Safety Car
To KOZ: LOL.
You will never believe what one of the 2 mechanics said about my hazard flasher being inoperative most of the time. He said excitedly: "DON'T USE THE HAZARD FLASHER! IT INTERFERES WITH THE HEADLIGHTS!"
As soon as I get a job I will switch to the mechanic who exclusively works on Corvettes and has over 6 bays dedicated to Corvettes. He is almost legendary for his knowledge of Corvettes. (BTW, he's in Gaithersburg, Maryland and the name of his shop is TONY'S CORVETTE.)
BTW, the cars that go in and out of Tony's are scrumptious; I salivate while gaping at the many models and years and after-market modifications.
You will never believe what one of the 2 mechanics said about my hazard flasher being inoperative most of the time. He said excitedly: "DON'T USE THE HAZARD FLASHER! IT INTERFERES WITH THE HEADLIGHTS!"
As soon as I get a job I will switch to the mechanic who exclusively works on Corvettes and has over 6 bays dedicated to Corvettes. He is almost legendary for his knowledge of Corvettes. (BTW, he's in Gaithersburg, Maryland and the name of his shop is TONY'S CORVETTE.)
BTW, the cars that go in and out of Tony's are scrumptious; I salivate while gaping at the many models and years and after-market modifications.
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SunnyRainbowHeart (08-23-2017)
08-23-2017, 05:51 PM
#16
Just got to wondering. $275/hour mechanic? And other stuff.
Are we being pranked by the OP?
Are we being pranked by the OP?
08-23-2017, 05:55 PM
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Corvette mechanic
No. This is the truth.(That's how he sent--among other expenditures--his son to one of the most exclusive and expensive prep schools in the area, if not the country, which costs about $45,000.00 a year per kid.)
What's an OP?
What's an OP?
08-23-2017, 09:02 PM
#18
Race Director
PO previous owner
DPO dumb previous owner
08-26-2017, 10:47 AM
#20
Advanced
This happened to me once. The problem ended up being a loose cable at the battery. It didn't feel loose, but sure enough it was the problem. I tightened it just a little and never had a problem since. Hopefully your problem is just that simple.
i drove my car about 50 miles, stopped from dinner, and when I came out it was completely dead. Jumper cables had no effect. Got the car towed on a flat bed, when the flat bed stopped and we opened the door on the vette I noticed that the cabin light came on and so I tried starting the car and it started right up. I plaued around with the cables and found one ever so slightly not as tight as the rest.
Good luck.
i drove my car about 50 miles, stopped from dinner, and when I came out it was completely dead. Jumper cables had no effect. Got the car towed on a flat bed, when the flat bed stopped and we opened the door on the vette I noticed that the cabin light came on and so I tried starting the car and it started right up. I plaued around with the cables and found one ever so slightly not as tight as the rest.
Good luck.