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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 05:58 PM
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Default Security light flashing

Hi all,

I am working on an ongoing issue not being able to get my 97 automatic to start.

I replaced the starter, batter, terminal leads and the ignition switch. The ignition switch was completre eith tumbler and the key to match. I am still getting the security light flashing and a lot of binging from other codes showing up.

my question. Can I bypass the security light by rewiring the TDR? I need to do this for test purposes to see if it's a programming issue with the ignition switch or somethijng else with the BCM

thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 07:23 PM
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The resistor in the key must match what the BCM wants to see. Hopefully you still have your old key, measure the resistance on the black pellet in it. Then take a resistor of the same valve and wire it across the VATS harness after disconnecting it from the ignition. That will bypass the VATS and allow you to continue to trouble shoot.
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 07:30 PM
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Hi K0z

Thanks for the information. Yes I still have my old key and ignition for that matter. How do I measure the resistance of it?

I'm sorry but I am not great with electrical stuff.
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperC
Hi K0z

Thanks for the information. Yes I still have my old key and ignition for that matter. How do I measure the resistance of it?

I'm sorry but I am not great with electrical stuff.
Here you go.
Attached Files
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rrwirsi
Here you go.


Thank you that was super helpful


Now it looks like I am having another fun issue. I disassembled my ignition switch from the tumbler setup and swapped them to see if I could use my old one and my old key and Unfornately now when I plug in the switch and turn the battery on, no matter which setting I move the key to (off, acc, on), the ignition is in setting on. when I move the key through the setting it has no reaction and I cant hear it clicking when I try and start. I guess I put something back together wrong???
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperC
Thank you that was super helpful


Now it looks like I am having another fun issue. I disassembled my ignition switch from the tumbler setup and swapped them to see if I could use my old one and my old key and Unfornately now when I plug in the switch and turn the battery on, no matter which setting I move the key to (off, acc, on), the ignition is in setting on. when I move the key through the setting it has no reaction and I cant hear it clicking when I try and start. I guess I put something back together wrong???


Pull the key tumbler back out of the ignition switch. Down inside the well where the tumbler cylinder lives , you will see a series of square holes. Use a screwdriver and turn that switch to the NO position.

When you reinsert the ignition tumbler, just make sure that it is in the ON position so that the drive on the tumbler matches and inserts into the drives on the switch.



BC
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Pull the key tumbler back out of the ignition switch. Down inside the well where the tumbler cylinder lives , you will see a series of square holes. Use a screwdriver and turn that switch to the NO position.

When you reinsert the ignition tumbler, just make sure that it is in the ON position so that the drive on the tumbler matches and inserts into the drives on the switch.



BC
thanks for the picture. I actually took it apart the other way leaving the black housing and tumbler together and disconnected the translucent switch housing from the black housing. I took it apart that way and put everythi by together and I can feel the switch toggling to the right place but even with the key out of the ignition completely, everything turns on as soon as y hr battery is connected. Did I break both switches? I tried both the one that came out of the car and the one I just bought(used)

justin
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperC
thanks for the picture. I actually took it apart the other way leaving the black housing and tumbler together and disconnected the translucent switch housing from the black housing. I took it apart that way and put everythi by together and I can feel the switch toggling to the right place but even with the key out of the ignition completely, everything turns on as soon as y hr battery is connected. Did I break both switches? I tried both the one that came out of the car and the one I just bought(used)

justin
You are destroying the switches!

Just get a NEW SWITCH and DO NOT disassemble it.

The entire LOCK TUMBLER can be removed from the electrical switch part. Put the key in the lock, turn it to ON and there is a small TAB on the side of the plastic housing. PRE IN on that TAB and the tumbler will slide out.

The VATS assembly sensor is part of the tumbler. If you have a bad VATS sensor, order a new tumble and just re pin the tumbler to your old key.

The OEM OLD KEY has the correct resistor value inside it to allow you to satisfy the BCM SECURITY Protocol.
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You are destroying the switches!

Just get a NEW SWITCH and DO NOT disassemble it.

The entire LOCK TUMBLER can be removed from the electrical switch part. Put the key in the lock, turn it to ON and there is a small TAB on the side of the plastic housing. PRE IN on that TAB and the tumbler will slide out.

The VATS assembly sensor is part of the tumbler. If you have a bad VATS sensor, order a new tumble and just re pin the tumbler to your old key.

The OEM OLD KEY has the correct resistor value inside it to allow you to satisfy the BCM SECURITY Protocol.
After seeing your attached picture I realized that. I think my lock cylinder and vats sensor are fine. I cleared the contacts on it and I am pickup up a brand new switch today.

as always, bill thank you for your help. Wiring and ignitions are not something I am great at and it really is nice to have yoiu and the others who have helped me on this site. I am learning a lot
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You are destroying the switches!

Just get a NEW SWITCH and DO NOT disassemble it.

The entire LOCK TUMBLER can be removed from the electrical switch part. Put the key in the lock, turn it to ON and there is a small TAB on the side of the plastic housing. PRE IN on that TAB and the tumbler will slide out.

The VATS assembly sensor is part of the tumbler. If you have a bad VATS sensor, order a new tumble and just re pin the tumbler to your old key.

The OEM OLD KEY has the correct resistor value inside it to allow you to satisfy the BCM SECURITY Protocol.


Got the brand new switch installed with my original tumbler and key and the vats switch from the 3rd used switch. The security light is finally off!! And it cranked reliably several time. Unfornately it still wont start and I get a ton of codes. FOr all the times I cranked it I cant smell any fuel near the engine so I think it is not getting fuel. Maybe a PCM problem since it has so many codes.
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 11:17 PM
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EXCELLENT PROGRESS!

Again,,, CLEAR all the DTCs and then attempt to CRANK & START the engine. Before you turn the key to OFF, read and post what DTCs you have.

Bill
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
EXCELLENT PROGRESS!

Again,,, CLEAR all the DTCs and then attempt to CRANK & START the engine. Before you turn the key to OFF, read and post what DTCs you have.

Bill

you got it.

codes:
pcm p0601HC. P01518HC
TCS c1241HC c1276HC
RTD no comm
HVAC no comm
A6SCM no comm
warning messages
reduced engine power
service traction
service AND
Brake before shift
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperC
you got it.

codes:
pcm p0601HC. P01518HC
TCS c1241HC c1276HC
RTD no comm
HVAC no comm
A6SCM no comm
warning messages
reduced engine power
service traction
service AND
Brake before shift


OK,,,, TRY THIS: To the left of the BCM, are two thin connectors. Find the connector with FOUR WIRES.

Pop the top off of that connector and see if you can clear the DTCs and see if the engine will run.
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
OK,,,, TRY THIS: To the left of the BCM, are two thin connectors. Find the connector with FOUR WIRES.

Pop the top off of that connector and see if you can clear the DTCs and see if the engine will run.
I did that. No change except a BCM code showed up 2722 c. I can clear the codes as many times as I want but the pcm 1518 comes back right away and the other one after I try to start It. All the tcs and abs codes show up again as soon as I turn the car off and on.

it dtill cranks and the motor turns over but no start and I doint smell any fuel.

Last edited by SuperC; Sep 8, 2017 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 05:26 PM
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There is NO WAY that pulling that SERIAL DATA CONNECTOR SHORTING BUSS off of the connector that I suggested, could cause that DTC...

B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit

You have more than one thing going on.

You MUST solve the B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit before you go ANY further.


The car will NOT crank/start or run with that DTC. Infact, if you keep truing to crank it the security system will LOCK YOU OUT for 12 mins each time.

Bill
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
There is NO WAY that pulling that SERIAL DATA CONNECTOR SHORTING BUSS off of the connector that I suggested, could cause that DTC...

B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit

You have more than one thing going on.

You MUST solve the B2722 PASS-Key Detection Circuit before you go ANY further.


The car will NOT crank/start or run with that DTC. Infact, if you keep truing to crank it the security system will LOCK YOU OUT for 12 mins each time.

Bill
well I just don't know what to do now. I really need to get this car running. Itd lookking like I am goijng to have to take it to.the stealership.
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Old Oct 1, 2017 | 08:59 PM
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Do the bypass and see what happens.
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