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Steps/Process to replace pads and rotors

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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 02:14 AM
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Default Steps/Process to replace pads and rotors

What is a good source for this? Haynes or Chilton manual? Is there a popular thread on the forums? Youtube walkthrough?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 02:23 AM
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its just like any other car.....may be a thread somewhere...pretty sure torque specs are posted in the sticky threads at the top of the page

manuals? if you are gonna buy any buy the 3 volume set from one of the vendors...don't waste your money on Haynes/Chiltons....hell for that matter I will be selling my set for a 99 now that I have taken my entire car apart

Last edited by pewter99; Sep 7, 2017 at 02:25 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 08:25 AM
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If you're going to buy something, get the factory service manual. It is well worth the cost if you do work yourself.
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 12:57 PM
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This may help...quick google search....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-rotors.html
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jranaudo
What is a good source for this? Haynes or Chilton manual? Is there a popular thread on the forums? You tube walkthrough?

Thanks in advance!



You can YOU TUBE "SEARCH" this:

c5 corvette brake pad replacement Look at all the stuff that pops up. YOU TUBE is a little more hands on friendly.



The REAR rotors are a PAIN because of the E-brake!

Some STUFF that I have learned over the years:

The rotors are wheel/side specific!

The caliper actually SLIDES in and out on grease pins. The grease pins are protected by a rubber boot. You need to make SURE that the pins are free to move! The greased pins MUST be able to freely slide!

YOU need to replace or should replace the old grease with new grease. The grease MUST be synthetic grease made specifically for that purpose!!!

Open the caliper bleeder fitting before you depress the piston back into the caliper. That way you are not forcing NASTY dirty contaminated fluid back into your system. It squirts out of the bleeder vs back into your system..

Suck as much old fluid out of the master cylinder that you can. I actually take my reservoir off the master cylinder and flush it out with brake parts cleaner before I start and then refill it with good fresh DOT4.



MAKE SURE THAT THE MASTER CYLINDER DOES NOT GO DRY WHEN BLEEDING!!!

I use a very light coat of anti seize compound between the brake pad mounting tabs, the stainless steel anti rattle clips and the caliper slots.

BC
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee

I use a very light coat of anti seize compound between the brake pad mounting tabs, the stainless steel anti rattle clips and the caliper slots.

BC

Golden advice. Bought my car and couldn't believe how much the brakes squealed, after some research I learned many people considered it "normal" for a metallic type pad. Not willing to accept that answer, I took the pads off and applied small dabs of anti-seize on the "ears" of the pads and anti rattle clips. Squeal gone entirely, took me about 20 minutes.
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