Diff mount
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,807
Likes: 331
From: Ocala FL
Hmmm....the more I look at this and think about it all I need is a few hockey pucks and a piece of aluminum or metal bar stock. I already have a drill press and metal bits.... IF this works and eliminates wheel hop and does't cause anything else to break it's a bargain price win in my book.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 638
Likes: 70
Hmmm....the more I look at this and think about it all I need is a few hockey pucks and a piece of aluminum or metal bar stock. I already have a drill press and metal bits.... IF this works and eliminates wheel hop and does't cause anything else to break it's a bargain price win in my book.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,807
Likes: 331
From: Ocala FL
I was figuring the stock mount is directly in the middle. Not much to stop wheel hop other than a solid mount. Which I think would break things. So by putting 2 points of contact in hopefully supports it better and more even. It's basically like the Hoosier mount but doesn't have the bushing in the middle which I think could still contribute to the problem because it's a pivot point.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Hmmm....the more I look at this and think about it all I need is a few hockey pucks and a piece of aluminum or metal bar stock. I already have a drill press and metal bits.... IF this works and eliminates wheel hop and does't cause anything else to break it's a bargain price win in my book.
Just be aware that you will have a WHOLE new world of noises,& vibrations to deal with.
I agree that what ever you do to the rear mount, you should do to the front. On a scale of 1-10, a stock mount would probably be a 4-5. That hockey puck would be a 7-8 and a solid metal mount would be a 10..
Bill
.
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,026
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From: Oregon
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
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From: South Western Ontario
I missed this before but it's a cool DIY solution.
The change I would make is I'd put a bigger clearance hole in the bar and then put a puck or rubber washer on the top as well. Use a big fender type washer on the bolt. That way, it can move in both directions, and can be tuned by using different thicknesses or durometers of puck.
The change I would make is I'd put a bigger clearance hole in the bar and then put a puck or rubber washer on the top as well. Use a big fender type washer on the bolt. That way, it can move in both directions, and can be tuned by using different thicknesses or durometers of puck.
Last edited by lionelhutz; May 30, 2018 at 04:41 PM.
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Pro
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 740
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From: MN
Right, rubber on both sides of something, either the bar or the cradle, would be best for isolation. I would eliminate the rubber washers under the diff case and hard-bolt it to the bar, too. Nyloc nuts on the long bolts through the pucks should keep it together.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I didn't even notice those washers under the diff case. Yes, get rid of them too.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 638
Likes: 70
Well, I actually sold that car in February. Since have gotten another one. Going to be building the diff and clutch soon tho. So I will probably make another one. I did drive it a couple times before I sold it and it felt like the drivetrain was way more solid. I little vibration which was to be expected, but nothing harsh. Never got to launch it at the track.
