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Doing a trans swap on my 2002 C5 Z06. It makes 440RWTQ so I wouldn't think I'm at the power limits of anything. It is a weekend toy and I occasionally do a driving event with it.
Which of these are the best to go with? I know to avoid any Chinese made ones. I'd like to go ahead and buy what I need so I can replace them.
If I don't drag race is there a point to upgrading the trans/diff mounts?
I have a 450 RWHP 02 ZO6 and when I was doing my head/cam swap along with the drive train mods ( New clutch, T-60/60 MN12 conversion and C6 ZO6 rear diff up-grades).
I removed and inspected the TT and couplers. (45K miles on the drivetrain) They looked like NEW so I didn't replace them. ZERO ISSUES!!
If you get the GM OEM couplers, you should be good to go..
I was always curious about the quality of the BMW units, so I replaced mine with BMW couplers last year. Put about 10,000 miles on them. Dropping the drivetrain now to do an engine swap, so I'll take a peek at the couplers to see how 10,000 miles of street driving and a half dozen track days (road course) treated them. They haven't made any noise or given me any trouble thus far.
Were factory ones not holding up very well for you or did you just want to see if the BMW ones were better?
I removed my OEM GM ones with 115K on the clock. They were quiet but when I inspected them in detail the rubber was minimally cracked in some places. I wanted to avoid a failure down the road so I replaced them. I don't doubt that the OEM GM ones are more than robust for my power levels (360whp), they're just so damn expensive.
The BMW coupler (made in Germany) is on the left, the OEM GM coupler is on the right (made in WEST! Germany)
There are tiny voids in the webbing between the bushings on the BMW model, probably to absorb vibration slightly better and provide more cushion.
Here's my 115K OEM GM couplers, you can see why I replaced them. However new ones are $180 EACH
I put a solid al set in mine. There are definitely more harmonics. It's a hot rod and a bit of a rattle trap anyway so meh. I wouldn't hate if it were quieter, but nothing I've done so far has been to make it slower or quieter so.....
DO NOT USE THE DORMAN REPLACEMENTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You will be doing the job over again in short order!!!
Bill
Yep, Dorman is crap.
As just one example, put a Dorman rebuilt front driveshaft in my daughter's Jeep. It failed one year and one day later. Dorman was useless. Found a USA made part that was a much better part. I won't go near any Dorman parts now.
The GM OEM parts may be more expensive up front, but I never hear of failures that happen quickly or due to lack of quality. Failures are typically from a lot of power being applied or age. With the difficulty to replace and the good service the GM parts provide, I would just go with the GM parts.
Last edited by vettenuts; Feb 21, 2018 at 07:56 AM.
As a funny aside I actually originally ordered replacement couplers from Zip Corvette thinking they had the best deal on OEM parts. When they arrived it was simply a Dorman part with a Dorman Label - they just applied the Zip Corvette label right over it. When I saw that it said "Made in China" on the box I sent it right back for a refund.
I just mentioned them, as a possible alternative. However, since that discussion is now several years old, has Prothane improved their product (or pulled it off the market)?
I just mentioned them, as a possible alternative. However, since that discussion is now several years old, has Prothane improved their product (or pulled it off the market)?
no worries... the Drive shaft shop had a set of polly that so far seem to be very reliable and happen to be 10 bucks cheaper...
Like you I'm a fan of the polys.... just not THOSES polys... LOL!