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Right after I got my C5, I got under it and reached up to the top of the radiator and pulled all kinds of crap out of it. Leaves, pine needles, little sticks & twigs. The car works like a vacuum cleaner sucking up all kinds of things. After I cleaned it the best I could by hand, I removed the upper shroud and blew it out.
I didn't read all of the replies, so this may have been covered.
Mine was doing the same thing. I bought a DeWitt's radiator. It's a work of art, absolutely beautiful! And, you can't see it at all when it's installed.
The moment I removed my radiator, I saw the problem. I literally could not see light through the radiator. You would not believe the pile of dirt that I shot out of it with compressed air.
These cars are tested at the proving grounds in Mesa, AZ and in Saudi Arabia. They won't overheat if air is allowed to flow through the radiator.
Save your money and buy a factory radiator. Hell, I have my old one in the DeWitt's box. Pay for shipping and you can have it.
Edit- Also, I "cleaned" my radiator on a regular basis. Removing the stuff on the external surface of the radiator doesn't do a thing for the stuff packed into the fins.
Last edited by TorqueWinsRaces; May 6, 2018 at 02:26 PM.
Did you remove the radiator 'support' held on by two 10mm bolts on each side, remove the air bridge and look down between the radiator and the AC condensor? That is the only way to see how much junk is collected in front of the radiator and Condensor. I use a soft bristle brush taped to a yard stick to clean the front of the rad and condesor. Than some compressed air or a garden hose from back to front to finish up. I'm not a betting man, but I have a dollar that this is your problem.
So it hasn't been getting real hot until yesterday. It was running at 235-240 then drop to 190. I am chasing a MAF issue right now, so I haven't messed with it. But now I am not comfortable with it, so I ordered a water pump from NAPA and will take my radiator in to be cleaned and checked. Part of me thinks I should get a new blancer and pin it while I have the water pump off.
Having the water pump off has little to do with replacing a balancer. That's a whole new project. Is the balancer wobbling? Make sure you replace the T stat while you have the coolant drained to do the water pump. Did you clean the outside of the radiator yet?
ECP Engineered Cooling Products 2" aluminum rad is only 250.00 and other than having to bend a few tabs away and back to get the shroud on it fits.
I haven't had any problems for 4 years since I put it in due to an A&A SC
ECP Engineered Cooling Products 2" aluminum rad is only 250.00 and other than having to bend a few tabs away and back to get the shroud on it fits.
I haven't had any problems for 4 years since I put it in due to an A&A SC
Do you have anymore pics of the installed radiator? Did you have to dremmel off the top ridges to clear the intake piping for the SC?
Another major possibility is your water pump. It may not have failed entirely; just not pushing the water so well.
I think the DeWitts is one of the best upgrades you can do to the Corvette, even if you are stock. It has twice the cooling capacity. The main benefit I find from it is that my coolant temps are very even and stable. With the stock radiator, if I was in traffic in the summer, temps could get up to 225 then they would drop back down once I got moving.
With the DeWitts, it doesn't matter if it is summer at 95F, in traffic, winter, etc. The temp stays at about 190 and doesn't move.
Even better if your car is an automatic as the DeWitts will definitely keep your trans fluid much cooler which is really good for an automatic.
Do you have anymore pics of the installed radiator? Did you have to dremmel off the top ridges to clear the intake piping for the SC?
I didn't dremel anything.
I did the cradle lowered perches mod to move the rad cradle back to the stock location
while keeping the lowered rad location.
Didn't like the A&A kit lower ground clearance.
There's just enough room for the SC Hose going into the intercooler.
I also recirculated my Tiel BOV back into the intake to silence the constant M6 tshing noise
I can't stand.
Now all you hear is a little chirp from the air hitting the turbine.
I cut the "cameltoe" out of the hood and made it flat to fit my SC pipe.
Box to slow and lengthen path from BOV
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; Jun 12, 2018 at 06:17 PM.
So after sorting my issues with the MAF, I noticed a lot of oily coolant leaking behind the water pump. Looks like $150 for water pump, belts, hoses, and 160 thermostat. Next weekend is stacked, so I hope it holds another week.
I noticed a spot in the driveway, but it evaporated, so I hope it's just coolant.
Minor update. After the water pump shat the bed and dumped coolant in my driveway, I replaced it and still noticed coolant in the driveway. I noticed a pool under the coolant tank and saw a few posts on them leaking. $75 at O'REILLY'S and no more leakage.
I am running 235ish in traffic. When stopped, it fluctuates between 225 and 235, but I am at 220 or Bellow when 45+ in 4th. Not sure the 160 thermostat has done a damn thing.
A side note, I met Dylan who at the age of 20 purchased a yellow one owner '04 coupe fully loaded with a 6 speed and 32k miles for a modest $14k. He got hit 2 weeks later and it was being painted when I got my tank. He was giddy when he saw me pull in.and still has a lot to learn. But he is a good kid and I welcome the next generation of Corvette lovers.
His dad bought an '08 the week after he got hit. Dylan sold his Honda S2000 and paid cash for his Vette.
A 160 thermostat won't make the car run any cooler in slow or not moving traffic; you need airflow over the radiator to cool the coolant. The 235 temps you are seeing are normal as that is the temp that both coolant fans will turn on.
My 02 Z06 would run hot also which is normal but I was never comfortable with the coolant getting up to 235. That is why I love my DeWitts radiator. I have not seen temps in any condition go over 205 and even that is rare.