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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 08:48 AM
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Millhousemx
I can hear the sound you're referring to, and I'm quite familiar with it.

My cammed '99 FRC with long tubes sounds like this all the time. I took it to a local specialty Corvette shop and was told it sounded quite normal. Don't know if I was given bad intel or if it's true. Either way, it drives me nuts. Especially when there's a building, curb or wall next to the car. It really amplifies the clattery ticking chattering sound. I'll try and post up a video when I get home from work.

I did some research and found that some people are able to quiet the noise by tightening a loose spark plug. Hasn't worked for me.

I haven't noticed any performance issues. The car pulls hard throughout the rev range. I don't hear it much at idle (850rpms), but anything over 1,000rpms it really starts going. Hot or cold, doesn't matter.

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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:19 AM
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I'm pretty sure mine is a noisey lifter. The noise comes from under the intake manifold and is way worse cold than hot. I just cant believe replacing 2 bent pushrods did basically nothing to help my noise. This winter ill buy some heads and replace the cam and lifters.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Millhousemx
Oil pressure is in the 40s at idle cold, at full temp it sits around 30 at idle. When i blip the throttle it rattles a bit when cold. Doesn't make any squeaks though must be your phone speakers. Once the engine reaches full temp the rattle goes away fkr the most part. I figure I'll tear it down this winter and do some upgrades. With my luck I'll do heads cam and lifters and it will sound exactly the same haha.
so your ticking goes away now when hot?
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:34 AM
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If you watch my video up top I have a very aggressive cam and it’s not really. Noisy at all in engine bay
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt1slowerbird

so your ticking goes away now when hot?
It has always gotten quieter as the engine warms up. Even with the bent pushrods in there. Never completely goes away but gets alot quieter.

Last edited by Millhousemx; Aug 21, 2018 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:49 AM
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Also my oil with 5-30 synthetic is 65 cold 40 hot. I will be switching back to 0-40 next oil change though. If you do the heads cam I would Invest in ls2 timing chain and lifter trays arleast. Also ARP head bolts are so much easier than oem torque to yield and with the ARPs the arp thread cleaner taps are a must from my experience sadly lol. I’m driving while typing I’ll check out your video when I get time tonight
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Millhousemx
I'm pretty sure mine is a noisey lifter. The noise comes from under the intake manifold and is way worse cold than hot. I just cant believe replacing 2 bent pushrods did basically nothing to help my noise. This winter ill buy some heads and replace the cam and lifters.
Glad you appear to have found the cause (or at least the effect) of your problem. Yes if you need to replace the lifters, then also upgraded to the LS2 trays #12595365. I used the GM LS3/7 lifters #12499225. Not sure if you want to need to open up the front of the engine, but yes as mentioned above the LS2 timing chain #12586482 is a nice upgrade over the LS1 unit.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Millhousemx
In your video I hear a hollow knocking sound that sounds similar to piston slap ( but prob isn't) and I also hear a higher pitched metal to metal tapping sound. Which sound is specifically are you referring to that you're concerned about?
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bwill03z


In your video I hear a hollow knocking sound that sounds similar to piston slap ( but prob isn't) and I also hear a higher pitched metal to metal tapping sound. Which sound is specifically are you referring to that you're concerned about?
The higher pitched metal to metal tick is what bothers me. Ive noticed it starts quieting down once the oil reaches 150* or so. It gets alot better when the oil is 190* but i can still hear it a little.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 06:49 PM
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Did you visually inspect the pushrods or roll them on a nice flat surface like a glass table? I’m sure you’ve done all the other things like check for exhaust leaks and loose plugs but It sounds top end related to me. If not pushrods I’d bet money on lifters
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 06:51 PM
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Yes i removed and rolled all of them. Had to bent ones. One was a slight bend the other was the really bent one in the pic.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Millhousemx
The higher pitched metal to metal tick is what bothers me. Ive noticed it starts quieting down once the oil reaches 150* or so. It gets alot better when the oil is 190* but i can still hear it a little.
Same issue with mine. It started after I had it dyno tuned. If i can get this thing to post my video correctly I will show you.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JHrinsin
Glad you appear to have found the cause (or at least the effect) of your problem. Yes if you need to replace the lifters, then also upgraded to the LS2 trays #12595365. I used the GM LS3/7 lifters #12499225. Not sure if you want to need to open up the front of the engine, but yes as mentioned above the LS2 timing chain #12586482 is a nice upgrade over the LS1 unit.
Also now would be the time to replace for ls6 oil pump or a mellings if you ever had the desire for it. Hopefully your lifters will slide right out the bore but in my case I had to dangerously fish it out through the cam hole so have some good strong pen magnets on hand just incase. I used a pen magnet and one of those stronger welder style ones

Last edited by Lt1slowerbird; Aug 21, 2018 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 09:48 AM
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Does your sound like this?? I had long tubes put on and then a Dyno tune shortly after that and it wasn't until then that I noticed the noise I believe I may have damaged a lifter while on the dyno. After a cold start it takes a min or two and it sounds like this until reach op temp then will slowly go away at idle. Between 1k-1500k rpms you can still hear it.

Last edited by bwill03z; Aug 22, 2018 at 09:51 AM. Reason: Added comment
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt1slowerbird

Also now would be the time to replace for ls6 oil pump or a mellings if you ever had the desire for it. Hopefully your lifters will slide right out the bore but in my case I had to dangerously fish it out through the cam hole so have some good strong pen magnets on hand just incase. I used a pen magnet and one of those stronger welder style ones
You know I was thinking of mentioning the oil pumps as well, but decided not too. Lots of details here that can confuse some folks, but here we go;

If you are running a HD single roller chain like the LS2 or C5R unit then you can run the Mellings #10295 high pressure (+10%), stock volume or the Melling #10296 stock pressure, higher volume (+18%) pumps without any clearance issues. BTW, if you would like you can run the Melling higher pressure Red relief spring (not the crazy COPO Camaro spring) in the Melling #10296, you would then have a higher pressure, higher flow rated pump which would be handy if what you had was a race engine with wider bearing clearances and/or say the LSA/LS9 or Kaytech oil squirters.

If you are running a double roller chain, you may have clearance issues with the Mellings pumps, but you shouldn't have clearance issue with the factory oil pumps. If you like factory oil pumps then the LS6 pump #12586665 has a 32 pcs relief spring. You can also buy the LS6 pump ported for additional flow from some aftermarket sources, but for a street motor that may not be 100% needed.

GM also has the +30% higher flow pumps from the LS4 engines ('05-06 #12571885 with the 52 psi relief spring and '07 #12612289 with the 42 psi relief spring), or the Mellings LS4/L92 pump #10355 with +33% higher flow, but those are not needed nor should they be used in a non DOD engine unless you have a really crazy road race car setup with say a massive coil cooler, a remount mount dual oil filter setup and lots of long external larger diameter oil lines.

Keep in mind with the +30-33% higher flow rated oil pumps it may be smart/necessary to also have the oil return ports in the heads chamfered, opened and/or cleaned up to help promote oil return flow and to keep the oil from pooling up in the top end of the motor during sustained high RPM events.

Please consult with you engine builder on your specific requirements.

Last edited by JHrinsin; Aug 22, 2018 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bwill03z
https://youtu.be/hGEhxAiK0S0

Does your sound like this?? I had long tubes put on and then a Dyno tune shortly after that and it wasn't until then that I noticed the noise I believe I may have damaged a lifter while on the dyno. After a cold start it takes a min or two and it sounds like this until reach op temp then will slowly go away at idle. Between 1k-1500k rpms you can still hear it.
This is the exact same sound my car '99 FRC makes with long tubes and a cam. At idle, 850rpms, you can't hear it. But as soon as it gets up to 1000rpms or more, its there. I was told by a local Corvette specialty shop that it was normal. I dunno. Been trying to track this down for a couple of months to no avail. The car performs and drives well, pulls hard through the entire rev range, but something just doesn't sound "right."

Last edited by FR-CYA; Aug 22, 2018 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 11:25 AM
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I pulled a low mileage mellings off my car to then replace it with an ls6 pump. Still sitting in the garage with my old parts. Not sure what to do with them. But mellings to ls6 haven’t noticed a difference at all, can’t remember the part no. The ls6 style is a popular option for us ls1 guys and is more than sufficient. For a street car. Same goes with timing chains. Ls2 chain is fine. If you wanna spend more coin I think Katech makes a pricey one. My stock chain was still good but for the time and disaster it can cause if broke I wasn’t taking a chance

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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FR-CYA
This is the exact same sound my car '99 FRC makes with long tubes and a cam. At idle, 850rpms, you can't hear it. But as soon as it gets up to 1000rpms or more, its there. I was told by a local Corvette specialty shop that it was normal. I dunno. Been trying to track this down for a couple of months to no avail. The car performs and drives well, pulls hard through the entire rev range, but something just doesn't sound "right."
My car did not used to make this noise even with aftermarket shorty headers. It sounds like one lifter to me. It's strange because standing at the motor listening it is obviously comibg from the passenger side front of the motor but when I use a stethoscope on the header primaries I hear a tapping coming from the drivers side on cyl 3 that is much louder than the rest. I am confused
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 01:33 PM
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Cyl 3 intake was ironically the lifter that failed on me
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