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I’m at a loss on what I can do. My vette been intermittently dying while driving and having starting issues for the week and today it finally kicked the rock. I know that the alternator, battery, and starter along with all the fuses and relays. After trouble shooting the best I can with some help I came up with it being the TAC module. I’m throwing P1518 along with getting low voltage, reduced power, and service traction says on my DIC. I don’t really wanna start throwing money at expensive parts that won’t fix my problem. I haven't taken apart the ground connectors (car has never been up north and only has 50k on it) but i cleaned the lugs and added dielectric grease. Hopefully my insurance will pull through for me so I can get the car towed back on base for me. For the past 3 hours Ive had my head buried in the forums associated with P1518 and it seems the most common culprits are either the ignition switch or the TAC module, Ive heard a bad TAC module can fry other sensors and the PCM though, I'm really trying to avoid going to a shop, and would rather do the work myself, if i can. Tomorrow I am going to try and find a ride to the dealership tomorrow to get my hands on some wiring diagrams. What do you guys think my next course of action should be?
It’s most likely your ignition switch (99.9%) especially when it throws a P1518...the DTC is an “effect” of your problem and not the “cause” !! (Low voltage going to your TAC module) !!
The ignition switch contacts get corroded/burnt and the output voltage on the "HOT in RUN/START" buss is low. Modules do not function under low voltage so, you get what you are seeing. Very common problem on C5s. Well documented!
Start there. Measure the voltage on the TAC Module FUSE. There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Measure both test points (one at a time) to chassis ground. Measure with the key ON and when you attempt to crank the engine. See what the voltage reads. It should be exactly what the voltage on the battery terminals are. If it reads LOW, your ignition switch need to be replaced. You can service the contacts inside but, its not for the faint of heart.
The ignition switch contacts get corroded/burnt and the output voltage on the "HOT in RUN/START" buss is low. Modules do not function under low voltage so, you get what you are seeing. Very common problem on C5s. Well documented!
Start there. Measure the voltage on the TAC Module FUSE. There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Measure both test points (one at a time) to chassis ground. Measure with the key ON and when you attempt to crank the engine. See what the voltage reads. It should be exactly what the voltage on the battery terminals are. If it reads LOW, your ignition switch need to be replaced. You can service the contacts inside but, its not for the faint of heart.
Glad to help out any military member. Heck Call me if you need to... PM SENT!
NO SENIOR CHIEF....YOU watch this !!...you squids are gonna have to get outta your racks a little bit earlier to beat me !!...I was more accustomed to the 0 dark 30 get ups !!...LOL !!!
Luckily I got the car home, as C5 Diag suggested i cycled the key 20 or so times.. I got under the floor board and poked around with the two main ignition fuses and they are good. I cycled the key a few more times and replicated the no start 'low voltage' condition again, and just as Rob called it my DIC displayed 4.9 volts. Looks like ill be ordering a new switch :P
GREAT !!...at least you saved yourself a towing fee !!...4.9 volts ??...that's a 7 volt "voltage drop" !!...that circuit that feeds the IPC (and also the TAC Module) where you read that "voltage" comes from the ignition switch in ON or START...that PINK wire which GM has been using like....forever !!
Just happy we are both around to help the guy if he needs it! Glad to help him save a buck or two.
Bill
Now that was FUNNY !!...YES !!...any of our Military peeps get special treatment even if it meant flying down to Eglin AFB to lend a hand!!….Carry On !!
Now that was FUNNY !!...YES !!...any of our Military peeps get special treatment even if it meant flying down to Eglin AFB to lend a hand!!….Carry On !!
I appreciate both of you !! Saved me lots of money on labor time couldn't ask for better help. I need to get my hands on some wiring diagrams because I'm blind without them! lol
I appreciate both of you !! Saved me lots of money on labor time couldn't ask for better help. I need to get my hands on some wiring diagrams because I'm blind without them! lol
Check out this website. It gives Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and wire diagrams for almost any vehicle. Just make sure you select wiring diagrams before you search. It defaults to TSBs:
Check out this website. It gives Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and wire diagrams for almost any vehicle. Just make sure you select wiring diagrams before you search. It defaults to TSBs:
I appreciate both of you !! Saved me lots of money on labor time couldn't ask for better help. I need to get my hands on some wiring diagrams because I'm blind without them! lol
Along time ago Army Knowledge On Line AKO use to have a database that provided Automobile wiring diagrams that you could use. Don't know if that still exists I use the Navy On line data base for mando training a lot and have not pulled up Army in a while.
The ignition switch contacts get corroded/burnt and the output voltage on the "HOT in RUN/START" buss is low. Modules do not function under low voltage so, you get what you are seeing. Very common problem on C5s. Well documented!
Start there. Measure the voltage on the TAC Module FUSE. There are TWO small test points on top of each fuse. Measure both test points (one at a time) to chassis ground. Measure with the key ON and when you attempt to crank the engine. See what the voltage reads. It should be exactly what the voltage on the battery terminals are. If it reads LOW, your ignition switch need to be replaced. You can service the contacts inside but, its not for the faint of heart.