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Hoping for some help here. Just replaced the front rotors for new two piece aluminum hat ones.
Ended up with air in the system that I can't get rid of. Have bled a quart of fluid thru the front system
and never let the master cylinder get less than half full. I have replaced the front rotors before with no problems.
Anyone here have any ideas? TIA
Very strange question but it has to be asked. Are your BLEED Fittings on the TOP or BOTTOM of the caliper??? They must be on the TOP. Is the left caliper on the right side???
Very strange question but it has to be asked. Are your BLEED Fittings on the TOP or BOTTOM of the caliper??? They must be on the TOP. Is the left caliper on the right side???
What you say???
This happen more often that you think!
Yes, they are on top. Same ones I put on a couple of years ago. Just upgraded the rotors to aluminum hats.
My dad had a car agency, so I grew working on autos.
This is something I have never ran across, air in brakes lines I can't bleed out.
What's your bleeding process? Tube (preferably clear) from the bleeder into a container (also preferably clear) with the end of the tube submerged in brake fluid? Pumping the pedal, or power bleeder?
Not if you only changed calipers - it bypasses the abs. You can change hoses atc on abs and bleed normally.
OP - did you push the pistons back or open the system?
Had to push the pistons back in to get the discs back in the calipers. Have had to do the same before w/o any problems.
I did not know this could cause problems, never has before.
[QUOTE=redzg;1599793963]What's your bleeding process? Tube (preferably clear) from the bleeder into a container (also preferably clear) with the end of the tube submerged in brake fluid? Pumping the pedal, or power bleeder?[/QUOTE
Everything as you described except pedal power was wifie.
I've seen pushing back pistons that weren't sufficiently clean destroy a seal before.
Pistons were cleaned before they were pushed back in and there are no leaks around them.
Pedal goes to the floor on first pump and will pump up in one or two pumps.
Last edited by tiojames; Jul 19, 2019 at 09:04 PM.
Reason: spelling
If you are completely stuck, I would gravity bleed, then normally bleed all 4 corners. Then I would use a brake hose clamp or a vise grip needle nose with rubber hose on it to block all 4 hoses - if using the latter DO NOT OVER CLAMP. That will tell you if it's a bad master. If the pedal is solid, undo each clamp one by one and check pedal.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Jul 19, 2019 at 09:52 PM.
Had to push the pistons back in to get the discs back in the calipers. Have had to do the same before w/o any problems.
I did not know this could cause problems, never has before.
I worded the question poorly - I meant did you open the system when you pushed them back, or just push them back.
Just to be clear as it is kind of hard to follow, you removed the calipers and blocked the lines so they didn't drain. Put the calipers on a bench and cleaned the pistons after which you pushed them back in. Installed new rotors and then reinstalled the calipers. Now bleeding you can't get out the air?
I have had the air get drawn around the bleeders so air appears in the bleed tube but it isn't actually coming from the caliper internals. Have you tried closing up both sides and then pumping until you get a good pedal?
Sounds like you have somehow gotten air in the MASTER CYL.. Have some one push the peddle and you crack the flare nut/s for each line one at time at the master cyl. Tighten and have the assistant release the peddle. Do that till you get good fluid on each stroke..
Then bleed the brakes all over again once you get the peddle back.
Ok - so the system was opened. I would then recommend what I posted a couple posts back.
Lines are upgraded SS and you cannot pinch them off. I have bleed one quart of fluid thru all four corner twice and results are the same.
I have been working on vehicles for over 40 years and know how to bleed brakes w/o getting air in the lines back thru the bleeders.
Sounds like you have somehow gotten air in the MASTER CYL.. Have some one push the peddle and you crack the flare nut/s for each line one at time at the master cyl. Tighten and have the assistant release the peddle. Do that till you get good fluid on each stroke..
Then bleed the brakes all over again once you get the peddle back.
Bill
Thanks, Bill. I will give it a go. I never let the fluid in the master cylinder get below half full during the times I was bleeding the brakes.
Only thing I haven't tried, and I will give that a try.
I’m wondering why did you remove the calipers in the first place? I realize you had to remove them from the caliper bracket , and remove caliper bracket to get the rotors off. I’m guessing you removed the brake hose from the caliper to either clean caliper or flush out old brake fluid. Regardless, you definitely have something very strange going on not being able to bleed out all the air. Last year I had a drivers side front brake caliper piston stick on me and burnt up my brake pads. I ordered and replaced both front calipers and had no issues at all bleeding the brakes.