s WD40 02 sensor safe?
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
On the threads, but a much better choice for loosening fasteners would be PB Blaster.
Dont let anything including water get into the O2 bulb/sensor area.
Dont let anything including water get into the O2 bulb/sensor area.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
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Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Those two valves have been subjected to 20 years of extreme heat cycles.
I wouldn't waste time with what is a bandaid at best. I’d replace both valves.
Better yet, I’d remove the entire smog system and tune that code completely out using hptuners (which is what I did).
Those valves are only there to allow air from a smog pump to enter the exhaust manifold when the coolant is below 130 degrees on a cold startup. It creates a lean condition and lights off the catalytic converters sooner. So in reality that entire system isn’t really needed for the overall function of the car, only to satisfy a government mandated “every little bit helps” stance on pollution.
I wouldn't waste time with what is a bandaid at best. I’d replace both valves.
Better yet, I’d remove the entire smog system and tune that code completely out using hptuners (which is what I did).
Those valves are only there to allow air from a smog pump to enter the exhaust manifold when the coolant is below 130 degrees on a cold startup. It creates a lean condition and lights off the catalytic converters sooner. So in reality that entire system isn’t really needed for the overall function of the car, only to satisfy a government mandated “every little bit helps” stance on pollution.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ozark Alabama
Not sure if it is O2 sensor safe but I used it on my stuck air valve several times and haven't had any problems. I was able to put off changing the air valves by a couple of years. I would definitely tune them out if I had access to HPtuners. The car will smoke some when you start it up after using the wd40.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
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[QUOTE=Simtech;1599858883]Not sure if it is O2 sensor safe but I used it on my stuck air valve several times and haven't had any problems. I was able to put off changing the air valves by a couple of years. I would definitely tune them out if I had access to HPtuners. The car will smoke some when you start it up after using the wd40.[/QUOT--------------------------------O I used about half a can--blew air thru--let it sit overnight --erased 1614 code--drove around started afew times when cold engine--No codes--must be 02 safe--
Last edited by royal flush; Jul 29, 2019 at 11:10 AM.
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Racer
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From: Las vegas Nevada
Code 1614
You’re doing it wrong. What you need to do is disconnect the A.I.R ports on the exhaust manifolds, both sides, this will prevent any solvents from contacting the O2 sensors. While the engine is still warm and the ports disconnected, plug up both sides of the air tube and spray a generous amount of cleaner like Barrymen B12 Chemtool, or any cleaner that will dissolve carbon build up, use some light compressed air to get the cleaner to soak the check valves and allow it to set over night. In the morning, unplug the passengers port and inject some compress air in the driver’s port to blow out all the crap. You will see the junk that has been built up over time on the other side of the tube. It did this from a write up from Bill curry did however I cannot find it.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
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Likes: 31
You’re doing it wrong. What you need to do is disconnect the A.I.R ports on the exhaust manifolds, both sides, this will prevent any solvents from contacting the O2 sensors. While the engine is still warm and the ports disconnected, plug up both sides of the air tube and spray a generous amount of cleaner like Barrymen B12 Chemtool, or any cleaner that will dissolve carbon build up, use some light compressed air to get the cleaner to soak the check valves and allow it to set over night. In the morning, unplug the passengers port and inject some compress air in the driver’s port to blow out all the crap. You will see the junk that has been built up over time on the other side of the tube. It did this from a write up from Bill curry did however I cannot find it.
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From: Anthony TX
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Answered another post similar to this one..
I started the WD-40 check valve referb procedure. Not knowing how GM designed the guts of that Check Valve, I figured that there was a sturdy disk valve with a seat that was just dirty and needed to be cleaned and lubricated.
SO,,,,,,,,,,,, Needing to know what was really happening, I dissected one.
NOTHING like I pictured in my technical brain! :-(
GM used a thick rubber disk to control A.I.R. Pump air flow. When the pump runs, it BENDS the rubber disk to allow the air to flow around it. The PCM needs to see a very specific change in O2 sensor readings when the pump is running. If it doesn't, the code is set.
The problem comes after the rubber disk is exposed to heat, carbon, AGE, and wear and tear. The rubber disk either doesn't bend enough to allow enough air around it to satisfy the test OR just no longer seals.
So, if the WD-40 treatment works, its only a temp Band-Aid.
If GM used a quality poppet style valve with a quality fiber disk and teflon seal, cleaning the valve would easily resolve the issues.
YES, this will provide you some time before you have to actually change the valve/s but like just like JOSH stated, it ONLY A BAND-AID solution. I have since, deleted my AIR system.
Bill
SO,,,,,,,,,,,, Needing to know what was really happening, I dissected one.
NOTHING like I pictured in my technical brain! :-(
GM used a thick rubber disk to control A.I.R. Pump air flow. When the pump runs, it BENDS the rubber disk to allow the air to flow around it. The PCM needs to see a very specific change in O2 sensor readings when the pump is running. If it doesn't, the code is set.
The problem comes after the rubber disk is exposed to heat, carbon, AGE, and wear and tear. The rubber disk either doesn't bend enough to allow enough air around it to satisfy the test OR just no longer seals.
So, if the WD-40 treatment works, its only a temp Band-Aid.
If GM used a quality poppet style valve with a quality fiber disk and teflon seal, cleaning the valve would easily resolve the issues.
YES, this will provide you some time before you have to actually change the valve/s but like just like JOSH stated, it ONLY A BAND-AID solution. I have since, deleted my AIR system.
Bill