I purchased the EARTH X battery for the bike, 07 BMW K1200R. It was rated well above the OEM spec for the bikes needs and well above the cost of a standard flooded lead acid battery. It lasted a little over two years and the poor cold weather performance made me switch back to a standard lead acid battery. Been working fantastic for three years now (winter and summer)

Here are the specs for the Earth X battery - ETX 24C:

https://earthxbatteries.com/wp-conte...oduct-Spec.jpg

What is the Reserve Capacity of the battery that you offer for the C5 Corvette? The correct reserve capacity is a battery with 120 minutes. The Sleep or stand by current draw of the C5 is or should be 20-25 milliamps.

Thanks

Bill

 

Not only that, but we C-5 owners have to factor in the current age of our cars, and consider if we'd even own the cars, and that battery, long enough to reap the benefits of a $700 battery. Let's say that the battery would indeed guarantee us 10-12 years of trouble-free service. My car is now 18 years old, and I'm currently 67 years of age.

Will my car still be drivable, 10 years from now? I certainly don't abuse it, and at the rate I'm putting miles on it, it might have only 50,000 miles on the clock. But at the rate that electrical components are being obsoleted, it might become a piece of "garage art", due to a faulty component that is no longer available. And in 10 years, I'll be 77.....maybe. Therefore, for me, that battery would not be a wise investment. Believe me, I'm not knocking it as a product, it's that for a lot of people, it just is not budget friendly.

 

I’ve drained this battery time and time again listening to music for hours while work on her. I think in total with the old core it equates to roughly 25.00 lol.

 

We are the the SEMA show, so I have delayed responses....

I understand all the perspectives of Cost, I am not saying you should buy our battery necessarily... it is not the best for every application. In fact if you are driving your Vette in Snow and freezing weather, or don't care about built-in Jump Starting and lightweight then that is a great indication that it's on you radar. My point is just to bring it to your attention and let people know it exists, and answer any questions you might have about it. We do very well with this product in its niche, and we just won't 5 Global Media awards at SEMA for this battery. Its a big hit... but for sure not for everyone. But it is the future of what is going on. But it won't take the place of lead/Acid very soon.

As far as cost, other companies in our niche are not close to what we are offering in terms of technology and have much higher pricing than us... you can look at Braille, Lithium Pros or VoltPhreaks... they are hundreds of dallar more than our most expensive that us, yet don't have the built-in jump starting. So it all relative.

I will answer some of the other post above when I get back from SEMA.

 

With all it has to offer and if cold weather is less if an issue you would think that this would be the go to battery for most...perhaps if you go for market share you can have a better price point....

 

Advance Auto parts had a great sale going on last Fall plus I had a reward discount credit to use, so for my '99 FRC, I bought an Autocraft (Johnson Controls) group 78 AGM battery 740 CCA 115 min 60 Ahr It is 38.7 lbs with these dimensions; 10.81" x 7.18" x 7.31" Height.. Total cost was $160 out the door with the $22 core charge - which I though was a great deal.

 

Hey Bill the EarthX is a 8Ah Battery... and as you said that is fine for daily driving and if you going into the below freezing area for a bike you would want in the 12Ah range. As the bigger the battery is the more overhead in cranking it has. So if the cold weather resistance is taking effect and for example diminishes the initial start attempt by 30%.. you will still have the overhead on a 12Ah Battery to provide good starting. As I said the initial slower start attempt is due to the cold creating resistance in the Lithium Battery, but also if you do leave a headlight on or do a few bumps of the start button to force a little current out of the small battery then it self warms and the resistance goes away... but it does get stronger as it self warms so you do get the start with a lithium though yes on a smaller battery it might take 30 seconds to go through a warm up proces. Again talking a smaller bike battery in freezing weather.

As far as what I am promoting as the automotive battery.. the average size we sell is the 30ah and 40Ah models though we also offer a 60Ah version too. But most Sports Cars are doing 30/40Ah versions. So colder climates a 40Ah or 60Ah would be a better go to battery because the more Ah Capacity the more the power and the more the Capacity. The 40Ah does not suffer from the "lithium lag" down to about 10 degrees because it has so much power and overhead. I had a Toyota truck with a 30Ah version and we would go Snowboarding for a week in Mammoth in Temps going from 4 degrees to 20 degrees over the week and I did not suffer any ill starting whatsoever. But to also put this perspective we are not marketing this version of the battery to Truck and Passenger Cars that are left in 10 degree weather as daily drivers all season. I suggest a good ole Lead/Acid for that type of use. That version will be coming out soon. But we are mainly for those looking for a high-performance battery option with some great features that lead can't offer.

As far as Reserve Capacity... Lithium can deliver certain types of discharge much better in different areas than Lead/Acid. For example a 30Ah Lithium would start a car more times in a row, than a 70Ah Lead/Acid battery because it barely uses any of its capacity to deliver high current "pulse discharges" compared to Lead. But Lead can deliver more Reserve Capacity if it has more Amp Hours than Lithium.. such as comparing a 40Ah Lithium to an 80Ah Lead like we often replace in a Porsche for example. But is not super accurate because Lithium could power a few Amps and higher discharges much better than Lead, for example a 40 Amp Hour Lithium will power a set of lights on a Car better than a 60Ah Lead because it goes deeper into is state of charge and is more efficient with its energy.

So the Reserve test is not an really accurate test for a Passenger or Sports Car really. For example its a test that puts a 25 Amp Load on a battery and sees how long it takes to go down to 10.5v... a great test for if you have light bars on a 4X4 truck or if you have a large stereo which you crank the volume for a while when the car is not running, but not really a accurate real life test for a Passenger Car or Sport Car. It does not consider the longer TIME over which a standard Car actually discharges energy from the battery. For example a few weeks storage at a lower discharge. Also it does not consider that Lead/Acid also has an effect called a "self-discharge" that Lithium does not have. Lead looses it own energy and lithium does not... and that is without a load. So the reserve for energy test for a lead acid is a bit inaccurate because they put it on a fresh charged battery then don't consider the fact that Lead/Acid actually self- discharges a bit from the chemical reaction of Lead/Acid together and that reserve capacity is not really intended for LOW current draws like storing or not driving your Car. So it rare a person puts a 25Amp load on a passenger car or needs to. So my point is that telling you a reserve capacity is based on Amp Hour Capacity... and like kind Lead vs Lithium both being, for example, 40Ah... the lithium would do much better in a Reserve test, but we offer a lower Capacity Lithium to replace a higher capacity lead because they would both perform roughly the same. Yet if we did a starting test the Lithium would badly beat-up the Lead by probably 50% more starts. So finally if we are to talk a low load Parasitic drain on the vehicle ultimately ending in a discharged battery then our battery has a SLEEP mode that would actually prevent any further discharge and allow you to just press a keyfob to start your car and drive away, where as the Lead would potentially keep draining down to 6v and damage itself..... so then the Reserve Capacity does not even matter because the lead kept draining and ruined itself. hope that ramble makes sense. Again not saying this is for everyone... just explaining some facts.

 

@Bill Curlee and other knowledgeable members, I suspect my corvette to draw current higher than reasonable. in order to check this i just bought a meter (https://www.uni-trend.com/html/produ...es/UT210D.html). Do you think I will work? Any better procedure with the clamp? I was about to :
- park the car
- open the hood
- close all doors and lock the car
- measure on the negative cable to the battery
is this correct? Is there other things I need to do or could you refer me to a posti could find the information. I guess it has been discussed. By the way, not being sure of what to do, I bought an AGM spiral from Exide with 800CCA and 50Ah, given that I usually don't drive for long period at a time and can't have the car with a charger....expensive toy.
thank you in advance.
TCFS

 

Rather than writing a long paragraph... video and these guys explain it perfectly, and the easiest ways to do it.

 

AGM Interstate Battery Costco $77 42-month unconditional warranty- free replacement


thread/

 

The first thing I would suggest is to determine the actual current draw in "sleep mode". It should be between 20mA and 30mA, typically 25mA.


You don't need to lock the car, just wait for it to go into "sleep mode". I would also suggest to leave the doors open, so you could have access to the passenger's floor fusebox.

 

What’s the reserve capacity in yellow and red top 75 series? (No offense to gravity batteries, but I’m not spending $900 on a battery. Also, just fyi your website won’t pull up a battery for a c5 anyway.).

 

@Antigravity you should include the 15% off discount code of ngs15 in this thread.

 

What part of CA are you in?

I called 2 costco locations in Socal.. they dont have AGM. Regular Interstate with 800cca is $89.99

 

I just bought another battery at Costco for my suburban last week in northern Cal . It's AGM interstate price changed to $89 and the warranty is changed 36 months since original post but they still honor the original 42 month unconditional replacement no testing no hassle no prorate free replacement. It's still the best deal in town