02 ZO6 battery died. It was an age failure.

SO,,,,,,, In the everlasting search for the "BEST BATTERY", I came up with a compromised between Price, Performance and Reliability. I REFUSE to buy an Optima or any other battery that cost WAY more than a if should.

I looked at ALL the Group 75 batteries and NONE had the correct Reserve capacity (120 amp/hours), so,,, I decided to cram in a Group 78 battery. Hard part is finding one that will fit the C5 battery tray foot print without tray modifications.
I found an Advance Car Parts 78 FT-2 battery that would fit at 110 amp/hours. On the way to Advance Auto,, I saw an O Reilly's Auto Parts and found that they had a Group 78 that would fit without battery tray modifications. The ONLY mod that I had to do is grind the rear edge off the bolt in battery hold down shoe that holds the battery in the battery tray ( 2 min job) and that part is easily replaceable for all you 100% OEM fans.
The O Reilly's Group 78 battery is: SSB 78EXT and it cost $144.00 3 year warranty. It is a 115 amp/hr Reserve Capacity battery!!! Unless you go to AGM (at a much more substantial price) It doesn't get much better than that.
Upon battery installation, I went straight to the C5 Current Draw Test to INSURE that I wasn't going to kill a brand new battery. Connected the DC Amp Meter in series with the NEG terminal/battery cable and it drew 6 amps, then dropped down to 2 amps and the down to 200 milliamps. Stayed there for several mins and then settled out at 0.02 amps ( 20 milliamps) "JUST LIKE IT SHOULD" GOOD TO GO!

SO, I you want a battery with a little more grunt than the OEM Group 75 battery, Here are some options.

Hope this helps someone searching for an affordable battery that will work in Your C5 with a little more grunt that wont break the bank.

Bill C

 

I clipped and saved this one.
Thanks, Bill.
The only trouble with the amp meter test is that most inexpensive meters will blow the fuse if attached for anything longer than a quick reading.
A decent multimeter that can stay connected long enough to experience the descending readings will cost as much as that new battery. <g>
Maybe someone could point me toward an inexpensive choice?

dan kowall

 

If you just want to do a current draw test on the cheap you can buy a cheap shunt off ebay and connect that between your battery and batt cable. A shunt is basically a precise low value high wattage resistor. You measure the voltage drop across the shunt and calculate the current from the voltage drop. Here's one for under 5 bucks shipped from china, I would select the 20A : ebay

 

Dan

What meter do you have and what is the AMPs reading for that meter? Should say max amperage XX on the lead port.
Most meters have a 10 AMP dedicated lead port.
When you insert the meter into the circuit (between the NEG battery post and the NEG cable), you should only see 6 - 7 amps for a few seconds if nothing is turned on; Like ALL the Doors shut, Trunk shut, hood light connector disconnected.

Bill

 

Excellent post! Thank you sir

 

Group 78 is where it's at. I'll throw my experience in. I've run Optima Red Tops exclusively for years. No More. My latest one died at 6 years and I didn't feel like spending $225-250 on a battery that I MUST put on a trickle charger or it's dead in 5-7 days. Without fail, every time, never had any found indications of a power drain on the car otherwise.

Costco Interstate Group 78. $90 plus core. Fit perfectly, and I've had ZERO dead battery issues so far, leaving my car for 10+ days without starting it, and it's started every time. 110 RC. This seems to be the deal to beat for the price.

 

Here are the two meters that I bought that gave their lives in vain when trying to find a parasitic drain. Both had blown the internal fuse.
As you can see the one on the left says "max 30 sec. every 15 min." for the 10A plug.
After they had passed I found a similar warning in the instruction sheet about not using the meter at more than 2A for more than 2 minutes.
I have had previous experience with Chinese products that have had fuses that blew below their rating. Perhaps this was the case here?
I searched some online tutorials that searched for parasitic drains to see what specific multimeters they were using and most priced out at a minimum of $250. They were all rated for 20A and I assume were good for continuous use.
Everything was off during testing as you indicated in you reply but I don't know exactly at what point they blew as I wasn't watching the meters constantly.




dan kowall

 

You just have to open them and replace the fuse and you're back in business. If you use a shunt there is zero chance you will blow a fuse

 

I wounder if I am the only member that thinks this discussion is way overthinking the replacement of a battery. I have had my Delco OME battery for 4 years with zero problems. I will replace it next year. I never let a battery stay in a car for more than 5 years. Long story.

 

.check out a Duracell Ultra from batteries and bulbs. Its also a 110 reserve. About $110 bucks. I dont know who builds them, but all of my cars have them and I have had good luck with them. .....

 

I didn't know group 78 weren't supposed to fit. I dropped on in a while ago without any trouble besides getting it down into the hole.

As for the meter, put a jumper wire in place first then connect the meter separately in parallel. Then, pull the jumper wire off after a few minutes so the current has decayed.

About $40 on Amazon will get you a DC clamp on meter. Use it first on the jumper wire above to ensure the current is low enough for the sensitive meter. In other words, don't pull off the jumper wire unless the current is down in the 2A or less range.

Also, in the $10-$30 range there are all kinds of little power meters that measure voltage and current and either come with a shunt of a hall effect current sensor. Lots of choices in the 50A to 100A range. Rig one up with some leads for voltage and current and you've got a cheap current and voltage meter. These won't likely measure 20mA accurately, but will work to determine there is no higher current drain.

The meters in the picture should both have replaceable fuses. Open the back cover and look for the fuse.

 

I've used an Optima in my C-5, since the "scare" of leaking batteries arose in 2002. I've kept them in the car for about 5 years, then moved them "down" to my DD, for the next 5 years. With respect to charging, I store my C-5 in the winter, but presently have an attached garage, therefore I won't keep a charger on the car all the time. I'm in and out of the garage enough, during the winter, to simply put the charger on the car, for a couple of hours, every 7-10 days. The first 4-5 years I had the car it was stored at my mother's house, during the winter, and I was only there on the weekends, therefore it would only see a charger for brief periods, yet I never had any issues.

 

I am interested in this one:

 

Bill is there any chance you a confusing reserve capacity in MINUTES with reserve capacity in Amp-Hours???

https://sciencing.com/how-8681870-co...amp-hours.html

If you do the math on the OReilly's battery is comes out to about 48 Amp-hours.

 

In all of the battery threads I've looked at in the last 6 months I also ended up at O'reileys. This group 78 battery fits the space and has the 120 min reserve capacity. That 120RC spec was the hardest to find and was near impossible in the group 75 size. Also, it has the dual terminals which I like (my old optima had them too) because it makes it easier to hook up the battery tender for the winter to the top terminals.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../4742703?pos=0

 

Yea,, I saw that AGM battery but,, I didn't want the extra expense of the AGM Battery. I purchased an Autozone Group 78 AGM battery for our 11 Grand Sport Vert for a couple of reasons. The C6 seems to be hard on batteries for some reason. The R/C was excellent and it is a well reviewed battery. It was $205 bucks and its been working fantastic.

The Lead Acid Group 78 battery for the 02 Z fit really well, had a good R/C and the price was Ok.

NOTE.. Not all Group 78 batteries will fit the C5 battery tray foot print. I had to do some Height/Width and Length research but, ones that will fit are out there. The height of the battery is usually not a factor.
I got a massive AGM battery for the 11 Grand sport and had to do some battery tray modifications to get it to fit. I had to do some acrobatics to shoe horn that sucker in but it fits.

I too wanted the dual post battery for the C5 but, they didn't have any on the shelf.

NOTE! ALWAYS look at the battery manufacture date on the battery before you purchase the battery. I had to call two Advance Auto stores before I could find one that wasn't 8 months old. The one I purchased from O'Reileys was made in Sept. You DO NOT want a battery that been sitting around for a LONG TIME!

Bill

 

Don't know when GM switched from Group 78 to 75 batteries but my 98 vert has always used Group 78 batteries. Have used batteries from Sams Club and currently have a Duracell which goes for about $105 including giving them a core to avoid an $18 core charge. Last month they had a $20 off promotion on all Duracell batteries. Have had some last 6 or 7 years and some only 9 or 10 months. Currently you get a 3 year "free" replacement if it proves to be defective. The "free" replacement means they look up the current price and charge you the difference from the price you originally paid. They no longer pro-rate the batteries for 7 years. After 3 years you get no allowance if the battery fails. Until they fail they give good service in summer and winter, Use the C5 year round so it gets heat and cold.

 

To avoid that, you could use . The initial high current is safely bypassed through the switch and after waiting a few minutes, the switch can be opened. This just leaves the meter in series with the battery, but without disturbing the process of going to "sleep mode".




Note: As mentioned above, the protective fuse on those meters can be replaced.

 

Duracell is made by Deka battery in PA. yes good battery

 

I didn't know such a thing existed, GCG.
Much obliged for the heads up.
Fuses have been replaced.

dan kowall