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Ya had the car out on a drive to San Francisco! All was splendid until about my last 2 miles on the highway back home . Should be a easy fix just remove the side tabs off pop out the sensor and replace …think it’s 75.00 bucks for the part
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 25, 2021 at 12:44 AM.
Ya had the car out on a drive to San Francisco! All was splendid until about my last 2 miles on the highway back home . Should be a easy fix just remove the side tabs off pop out the sensor and replace …think it’s 75.00 bucks for the part
that would be a nice easy fix. but i think ur car going to end up at the bottom of a cliff.
check the pins on the connector, same crap happened to me when doing wot pulls and one of the pins in my connector was opened up and had a bad connection... tightened it up and all was well
Still getting a coolant temp of about 232-237- oil temps was cranked up to 268 getting worried was barley getting on it … Time for a new oil pump I think dam…
Might just go looking for the c8 to buy ! Bright orange for a change
Let’s see here pull out the steering rack once again , pull the aa again , might as well get a new ps pump as well , pull the cam , pull the timing , pull the oil pump , get a new radiator for the sake of it . And then giver hell right ? WTF
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 7, 2021 at 04:38 PM.
Yup got out the mpvi2 and ran test about a month or so back all was fine…I trimmed the fan tabs down a bit but I doubt it sitting slightly lower is having such great impact on things
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 7, 2021 at 11:57 PM.
If adding in a oil cooler what suggestions do you all have for a set up ? What needs to be done tap the pan or can something be rigged off the drain port ?
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 8, 2021 at 11:30 PM.
Been looking at my volt gauge and I’ve noticed some 11.9 - 13.1 nothing higher a lot in the 12.1 12.4 range thinking this is not normal and that the alternator is finally giving up? Maybe a poor battery already?
Start up today seems normal 14.1 to 13.7 throughout the cycle to cool down even running the boost gauge lights ,stereo system , and headlights …thinking possibly when July 4th week was here I had the trunk open nearly all week cause that’s where I stored all my fireworks …so it was recharging maybe hopefully….
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 13, 2021 at 03:15 PM.
Been looking at my volt gauge and I’ve noticed some 11.9 - 13.1 nothing higher a lot in the 12.1 12.4 range thinking this is not normal and that the alternator is finally giving up? Maybe a poor battery already?
Start up today seems normal 14.1 to 13.7 throughout the cycle to cool down even running the boost gauge lights ,stereo system , and headlights …thinking possibly when July 4th week was here I had the trunk open nearly all week cause that’s where I stored all my fireworks …so it was recharging maybe hopefully….
Hey, Speedy. Ive seen the voltage on the DIC read at least 1/2v less than at the battery. As for hooking up the oil cooler, look on the LPE website. They make a neat little oil cooler part that bolts on the drivers side of the block. Got mine from Lingenfelter (LPE), because it's made from 1 piece billet aluminum, then anodized. Mine is dark red. Anyway, the #10 AN ports/male fittings are actually CNC machined out of the billet aluminum, not drilled or tapped for NPT AN fittings. So you won't need to buy the fittings, either. All 1 piece for less potential leaks. Sure, nothing Lingenfelter sells is cheap, but they make good stuff
Last edited by grinder11; Jul 13, 2021 at 05:57 PM.
Well so I’m gotta pick up another tps sensor and harness , & every time I run the a/c the engine starts heating up to the 240’s …shut the a/c off and back down to 219 it goes …thinking the radiator needs to go …or the a/c pump itself is working improper 1st off since the radiator was and prob still is full of bullshit road debris that can go ….switch a dewitts post pictures up as it comes along …tire of that p1516 out of no where especially in the middle of traffic how embarrassing!!!!!
Well so I’m gotta pick up another tps sensor and harness , & every time I run the a/c the engine starts heating up to the 240’s …shut the a/c off and back down to 219 it goes …thinking the radiator needs to go …or the a/c pump itself is working improper 1st off since the radiator was and prob still is full of bullshit road debris that can go ….switch a dewitts post pictures up as it comes along …tire of that p1516 out of no where especially in the middle of traffic how embarrassing!!!!!
Good choice on DeWitts. Had one for 15 years now, never any trouble. With a 160° stat, car runs at 180°-185° in 85°-90° weather on highway, w/o A/C, 190°-195° in city. Runs 195°-200° with A/C in 90° temps on highway, 200°-205° MAX with A/C in City. But that's with an LS7, and a 25% UD HB. Also very rarely hits 205°. Usually 200°-202° in city, and that's in Florida with 90° temps.
Was switching to my stock tb forgot to put in the intake seal for the 102 lol high rev lol so I just said to hell with it put back on the 103 body and I guess I’ll just have to replace the sensor and harness couldn’t look at the car again with stock tb on anyhow ….what a day and it’s already 100 out here in the garage bs California weather make ya go nuts working on a car in this heat hahahha…might as well grab some new hoses with the radiator…last thing I want to do is shoot off a hose lol …
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 19, 2021 at 03:32 PM.
Good choice on DeWitts. Had one for 15 years now, never any trouble. With a 160° stat, car runs at 180°-185° in 85°-90° weather on highway, w/o A/C, 190°-195° in city. Runs 195°-200° with A/C in 90° temps on highway, 200°-205° MAX with A/C in City. But that's with an LS7, and a 25% UD HB. Also very rarely hits 205°. Usually 200°-202° in city, and that's in Florida with 90° temps.