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Progress made lol I’m lazy but it’s hot like 104 out and no a/c in my work spot . Gathered supplies to make my job more relax. Remove upper lower A arm bolts , brake caliper bolts. Removed connectors. Remove e brake cable slotted foot. Removed exhaust ,torque bolts, disconnected shifter inside.Shock bolts 2 top only each side . Hmm seems it’s almost ready to drop with a few more connectors and undo the torque tube . Remove 2 rear brake lines at the rear connection. Pull the last 4 bolts . lol drop it down a 1 cross beam and jack on the torque tube simple .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 23, 2020 at 06:46 PM.
Got the maf hooked up and car is running . Although this adapter was to delete the iat sensor that’s wasn’t that case as the car threw p113 and p1111 . High and low voltage as they weren’t hooked up. So I drilled the bung 5/8 worked idles fine no major adjustments really needed as of yet. Next off with the 78mm and in with the 103 big throttle body silver plate by the way . It’s a perfect image of the one I saw sitting on a ls3 over at the dealer but in anodized black . I was told that’s definitely not for your car well it is now thanks to people at nick Williams it’s a fine piece I must say . Trying not to put a scratch on the install is gonna be challenging but should be ok as long as the power steering bracket is pushed back with some lock washers .
Now that I think of it I bet my knock sensors are back working after the dealer grounded the wires haven’t saw the codes pop up .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 30, 2020 at 12:32 AM.
Had to order a new clutch kit . The old one is being boxed sent back as it had a 2 year manufacture warranty. This time I have a new gm slave cylinder , and a South Bend twin organic clutch kit rated for 900 hp . This one shouldn’t give so easily as the Oem pro gold rated for 650. As to why or how it all broke is beyond me faulty hardware I guess . I was considering a new torque tube rated for 1k as well it’s a decent deal for 850 I just don’t wan to really pass up.
I hadn’t either but the product looked well developed online plus the clutch place / guy doing the job have have 50+ years experience bxt the two of them left the computer open I got the hint this is prob the one I should use . After looking into South Bend they have also been around over 50 years . Anyways I got a good response from them on numbers for clutch rating label. 900 is at the crank hp for this clutch. The clutch looked badass assembled . Had to bring down yet another slave cylinder as the brand new gm part wasn’t closing all they way some lock out issue luckily I had ordered a spare and had it in hand .
It’s almost finished I can feel it . Fingers are still cross I can go on this long trip 311 miles to go fishing!
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 10, 2020 at 03:34 PM.
I hadn’t either but the product looked well developed online plus the clutch place / guy doing the job have have 50+ years experience bxt the two of them left the computer open I got the hint this is prob the one I should use . After looking into South Bend they have also been around over 50 years . Anyways I got a good response from them on numbers for clutch rating label. 900 is at the crank hp for this clutch. The clutch looked badass assembled . Had to bring down yet another slave cylinder as the brand new gm part wasn’t closing all they way some lock out issue luckily I had ordered a spare and had it in hand .
It’s almost finished I can feel it . Fingers are still cross I can go on this long trip 311 miles to go fishing!
My god, slave cylinders don't like you. What a mess getting this clutch done. Hope it all works out.
Worked out got the car back . Still had a vacuum leak . Went out after it cooled down discovered the air injection pump tube wasn’t clamped I must of not put it back . Noticed air pissing out the back of the boost block so I tighten that up . Just to be safe re input the last file tuned on and seems to keep idle just fine now . Need to adjust clutch pedal to something more my liking other then that hope it good to go will see tonight after it cools down how it runs .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 10, 2020 at 08:32 PM.
Now I really need to get this 103 throttle body on the car. The stock 78 with this big ol intake makes like a grawling sound oh it’s horrid you can hear the restriction from all the air awaiting to get in there lol . On the other hand the throttle response seems to be very intact . Will see ...
To those who said I could not use the entire vara true air ram system with a super charger I’ve got news for ya . I can be done and will be done to push more air up that dam tube using the tru air ducts out of the vara kit . I found the font bumper needed to do so . It’s got two snout inlets right dead center exact where the inner cooler meets the plenum air duct lol. Measured thought out and ordered. I will need to cut the hole for the connecting tube outlet from vara to inner cooler . Or make custom filters on each duct either way it fits so I have a couple options on it . It’s gonna be a 1 of a kind surely . Have you ever heard of a super charged double true air induction on a c5 I thought not .
If you ask why it’s because modding bigger parts needs back pressure like I been telling you all . And one can’t achieve the proper ratios needed to excel over 17-20 mph per/sec without some added force on the acceleration point . Watch it run 6’s maybe a 5 . Lol Although my end goal isn’t a quarter mile it’s reaching 300 . I think it’s just about there after this one .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 11, 2020 at 03:04 PM.