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Don't get excited, I checked the torque chart, I tightened to 15 ft lbs, the torque wrench is still set on that. The 10 inch pounds was something else, with a different torque wrench, I ain't that dumb. I got bad short term memory so I double check everything I do.
I sometimes forget to back off the setting myself. Releasing the torque wrench to near zero will help preserve its accuracy as I am sure you know.
I have seen the TSB's, I was a dealer Tech, so that was always the drill. My engine had corrosion in the front sensor hole, the back was clean. I did the silicone fix to drain water away. My car engine only got washed once when I first got it . That may have been enough, because it had never been washed before. MY natural instinct is to NEVER wash PCM controlled vehicle's engines, based on past experience fixing cars that HAD been washed by owners. In my case, the engine compartment was a red mud pie. I can't own a performance car with an engine that looked like THAT. Now that I have had trouble, I will pull the intake to cover up everything that can be affected by water and corrosive cleaner products. There were no codes present before the radiator end tank split and I replaced it, I did do localized cleaning wherever I worked, it may just have been the time for this problem to occur. The corrosion I found was very old, the front Knock sensor's case was eaten through, and paper thin. it twisted under the strain of removal. As far as I am concerned, the new sensors are junk, I will replace them again. I don't go into closed areas and not replace it all with new. One hint I picked up from this forum is that an engine knock can cause a knock sensor code. My engine does have a minor piston slap when started from cold, I will see if that is the possible issue.
That ASE patch was not in use when I left in the late 90's, I didn't put much stock in the level of expertise need to pass them, one of my bosses was a pig farmer, knew nothing whatsoever about fixing vehicles of any kind. He passed a couple a couple of ASE categories just to get the patch and ASE sign for his business. At every testing session I attended, I was one of the first to finish, passing in areas I had no experience in. I have several 'Honor Student, First in Class' diplomas, from GM, US Army Transportation schools, and Bell Helicopter Textron, where I was given a promotion and much higher pay before I ever worked on any customer Helicopters. The GM training was useful in my work, but they hardly ever let me work on the stuff I trained for. I started fixing motorcycles and then cars when I was a kid, just never stopped until I went into Army Aviation Maintenance. They made me go to Inspector's school after Nam, I made E-6 after 3 years in the Army, got out when they were going to send me back to NAM. I also worked under US state Dept, contract to Iran as a senior line Tech/Instructor on Iranian Army Helicopters. That was good pay until the Shah defected to the US. I wouldn't go back there for a million per month.
I don't have problems with mechanical stuff, but I know that there are people in this group that HAVE had Corvette problems. I believe in researching every job for procedures and specs. before I start. I thank you guys for your experience and advice, I read everything you say and compare the info to what I read in the Tech manuals. I have the entire GM 97-04 service manuals on PC disk, they also cover a lot of other GM cars and trucks. Most of what they put into their cars is the same across the brand, with changes in particular parts to fit into the individual vehicles. The wiring diagrams are the same too.
This Vette I am working on was headed for scrap when I bought it. The owner knew me for decades, he worked on my back injuries, kept me working. When he had to sell his Vette that he had owned for 20 years, he knew I was a Vette mechanic, and offered it to me as a parts car. I bought it for that reason, only after fixing its problems and driving it did I decide I liked it. And it was cleaned, repaired and the bug eaten scratched, nicked, and faded paint was polished enough to draw compliments from people seeing it. I entered in a Chevy dealer car show as 'Factory Stock', winning best of show in that class with every other car in the class being a C6 or C7, some VERY nice cars. I realized that we are discussing a car you guys have never seen, so here it is, the Vette I saved from the junk yard. Every body panel except the hood needs repainting, that's beyond my means, so I polished, touched up, then block sanded and machine polished, (by hand in some cases) it into what you see here.
First question is where did you buy the replacement sensors, I bought a pair of "genuine AC Delco with harness" from Fleabay looked correct, from the plastic bag packaging to the markings on the sensor body. Drove for about 50 miles and codes came right back, pulled the manifold and sensor one of the sensors tested open, returned to seller, purchased AC Delco from Rockauto and problem solved. What I'm saying is there are so many counterfeits out there and you can't tell them from the real parts.
Good luck
Did you by chance take photos of the Fleabay and Rock Auto sensors? I'm chasing down a P0332 code in my car, and the previous owner replaced the rear knock sensor of unknown origin. It has no park numbers or markings of any kind, so I'm trying to determine its manufacturer.
Try tapping on the engine to activate the knock sensors. Usually a good tap with a metal wrench will wake it up and make the idle change as the timing has been pulled back. If you have a scanner you could see it in real time.
On my older C4 the one and only knock sensor went bad and the car was limited to very low performance until I replaced the knock sensor. Your C5 should automatically bring the timing back after hearing a knock.
Make sure your engine ground is clean as well. RockAuto would be a good source of quality parts even though they get bad parts sometimes. I ordered 4 O2 sensors and one of them was dead on arrival. This is the way it is today with companies trying to save money and build their parts in China. I was shocked that a Bosch O2 would be bad from the factory. It happens, unfortunately.
Sorry guys, I have been out of action, I injured my ankle and big toe. Had to put the outside work on hold until I heal. Already getting better so should be back on the Vette in a few days.
Sorry guys, I have been out of action, I injured my ankle and big toe. Had to put the outside work on hold until I heal. Already getting better so should be back on the Vette in a few days.
The man said "tap on it", not kick it!
J/K . Hope you get well soon and get the problem resolved. I just ordered two sensors today from Rock. My C4 needs a lot of attention over the next two weeks.
No, the bump on my head is from banging it on the intake manifold, I couldn't get it near the exhaust. I damaged the foot working on my mower, kicking the blades to get it going.
I went back into the knock sensor problem. I removed both sensors for an inspection. What I found was that although the sensors I bought were billed as ACdelco original equipment, with a high price to match, they didn't have 'ACdelco' stamped on the parts. Also, I had thought that I used anti-seize on the threads, I actually didn't, the threads were clean and shiny, so that blows the lack of continuity theory caused by the anti-seize. I had also installed a new harness and checked the car-side of the connector for continuity and corrosion, it is ok. Now I will locate some Acdelco replacement sensors, the car will sit until they arrive.
I went back into the knock sensor problem. I removed both sensors for an inspection. What I found was that although the sensors I bought were billed as ACdelco original equipment, with a high price to match, they didn't have 'ACdelco' stamped on the parts. Also, I had thought that I used anti-seize on the threads, I actually didn't, the threads were clean and shiny, so that blows the lack of continuity theory caused by the anti-seize. I had also installed a new harness and checked the car-side of the connector for continuity and corrosion, it is ok. Now I will locate some Acdelco replacement sensors, the car will sit until they arrive.
I need some help, please. My 98 C5 got a check engine light, so I rented a scanner from Autozone. I was an ASE master mechanic before I retired from fixing cars at a GM dealership in 98, so I know the diagnostic procedures involved. The scanner returned a code for one of the knock sensors, but didn't have the ABS section I was also interested in. I bought a new Scanner from Amazon that does address ABS, it says I need a left front sensor, I put that off for another time. I bought 2 new knock sensors (ACDelco) along with the new harness as recommended. The job itself was easy, and I took the opportunity to clean and paint the parts of the engine that were exposed by the work. The front knock sensor was badly corroded, and there was a lot of junk in the well, indicating a leaking seal.
After re-assembling the parts I now have TWO knock sensor codes, for both banks. I disassembled all of the connectors for cleaning and resetting the contact pin socket tension, that made no difference, the scanner shows a low voltage code for both knock sensors. Anyone out there have any ideas for a solution?
The engine runs normally, and does NOT knock or ping on any acceleration rate. In the past, when I found knock sensor codes in customer's Corvettes (prior to 98) I always heard spark knock on even mild acceleration. To rule out some of it, I cleaned and checked for continuity or resistance every connector under the hood, the ones I could get to. And I checked the connectors at the ECM, BCM, and all of the fuses in both fuse boxes. I don't have a problem with going back into the knock sensors, but an idea of what to look for would be nice.
Thanks in advance for any ideas you might have.
I think i might know the answer to your question but it will raise another question.
I have a 97 C5. When I bought the car 2 years ago it had a check engine light for both knock sensors. I was told that they were just replaced and it must be a glitch in the system. the car runs fine no issues. I have put maybe 6k miles on it and last week I noticed I needed a new belt and also one of my valve covers are leaking. So since I was going to be taking some stuff apart I said I'll go ahead and replace those sensors while I'm at it. This is where the problem starts.
After alot of searching and alot of frustration I found out that the 97 and 98 C5s have a different knock sensor and harness than the 99s and up.
The 97 and 98 harness is no longer in production and you cant buy a new one. All anyone has is a harness for a 99 and up. The harness has a different pigtail than the 97 and the sensor for the 97 is different from the 99 and up. If you replaced them and got codes and yours is a 98 then i am willing to bet the reason is due to you putting 99 and up sensors and harness in.
My question is what are we suppose to do to fix this?
I will attach the new harness and sensor I bought compared to the old sensor that came out of the car so you can see the difference.
I don't have the 97/98 harness so I am screwed until i can figure out what to do.
As you can see from the photos, the newer harness and sensor are completely different
This is the sensor I pulled out of the car which was unbranded and broke anyway. This is the correct sensor for the 97/98 This is the harness for the 99 and up.
