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OK, so you're saying you checked for voltage drop across ALL of the fuses and they all read 0.00 which they should ??...I'm assuming you have the passenger door open and "locked" like in the video to check those fuses in the IP fusebox ??...show us a picture of how you have the DVOM connected to the car...ARE YOUR 2 LEADS AND FUSES GOOD ??...DVOM fuses are usually limited to 10 amps...you have to trust your equipment so after the modules go to sleep you should see about 0.025 amps...25 milliamps is a good number...nothing written in the FSM but max current draw is usually the RC of the battery divided by 4. You also should be doing this draw test with a fully charged battery...12.66...if you want to drive to Florida I'll look at it for you !!!
You measure 0.25 amp inline with the battery - is this immediately after you connect the meter or after a few minutes after it goes to sleep? Do do have an after market stereo or alarm system?
Yes when my meters were working and it when into sleep mode it read .250. So i checked the voltage of the bose amp and it was zero. But for the **** off it i pulled the fuse and the amps fell to .150 now. Yes aftermarket stereo so pulled that fuse to radio and nothing happen. I disconnected my amps and still no change. Im at a lose with 2 problems 1 no voltage across fuse and inline to check amps dont work now. when i touch the meter wires inline it doesn't read amps but when it is connected there is a clicking sound by head light right side.
OK, so you're saying you checked for voltage drop across ALL of the fuses and they all read 0.00 which they should ??...I'm assuming you have the passenger door open and "locked" like in the video to check those fuses in the IP fusebox ??...show us a picture of how you have the DVOM connected to the car...ARE YOUR 2 LEADS AND FUSES GOOD ??...DVOM fuses are usually limited to 10 amps...you have to trust your equipment so after the modules go to sleep you should see about 0.025 amps...25 milliamps is a good number...nothing written in the FSM but max current draw is usually the RC of the battery divided by 4. You also should be doing this draw test with a fully charged battery...12.66...if you want to drive to Florida I'll look at it for you !!!
Yeah florida would be nice right now. Chicago. Yes to everything. After car sat for a week the battery is still 12.6. I hook the batt back on and the car starts right up with fast cranking. Again i checked meter with putting it in line with a battery charger and read 4amps charger, its a 1amp charge Its for electric bike battery. black ground to meter wire. red wire to battery negative. This is not how i hooked up the wires. This is just to show meter works.
And by the way there is a safty switch internal that shuts off after 2 seconds of over draw then kick back on and that's continuous.
I don't know why this popped up in my head but it's like choking or friend to death bring im back and do that over and over.
Last edited by helga203; Jan 20, 2022 at 11:24 AM.
I think someone hooked the radio up wrong . Did you disconnect the amp wires for the Bose speaker’s .
And since you hear a clicking I might also suspiciously suspect maybe a faulty connection or something is going on with a headlight actuator…maybe the main motor connection on the passenger side hook up … cigarette lighter un hooked in back of the bezel hitting some metal causing a draw ?
It's normal to hear a clicking sound when you reconnect the battery, and it is by the right side headlight, belive it is coming from the headlight module, perfectly normal.
I think someone hooked the radio up wrong . Did you disconnect the amp wires for the Bose speaker’s .
And since you hear a clicking I might also suspiciously suspect maybe a faulty connection or something is going on with a headlight actuator…maybe the main motor connection on the passenger side hook up … cigarette lighter un hooked in back of the bezel hitting some metal causing a draw ?
Whats speedy, been awhile,
There is no stock radio, speakers or amps im using. I have all aftermarket. I disconnected my whole system no power whats so ever. But when i pulled the bose amp fuse went down .100map. dont no why because i wasn't using it but the fuse is out know so my draw is .150ish in sleep mode. When car is on but not running 3.50amp.
It's normal to hear a clicking sound when you reconnect the battery, and it is by the right side headlight, belive it is coming from the headlight module, perfectly normal.
Yes i went out there today and hooked wires in line and i got a amp reading of 3.50amp car on ,not running. Haven't gone back out because it to cold but once i kill this 5th of jack off ill go out there and check amps. If i can find my garage, which is attached to my house.
If u dont hear back from me im in a ditch somewhere looking for my garage.
There is no stock radio, speakers or amps im using. I have all aftermarket. I disconnected my whole system no power whats so ever. But when i pulled the bose amp fuse went down .100map. dont no why because i wasn't using it but the fuse is out know so my draw is .150ish in sleep mode. When car is on but not running 3.50amp.
Are you sure the car went into sleep mode? You have retained accessory power to the radio for up to 15 minutes after the key is off. I haven't done this test myself on the C5 but you probably need to wait the full 15 minutes, with the meter still connected in series, until it goes into sleep mode. At a minimum you need to wait for the under hood light to go out.
And we might be doing all this diagnostic for nothing …I do know the auto theft / alarm is activated when doors get locked … a possibility here is that over time when sitting for a few months the constant draw for the alarm is just draining and causing your battery to have weak cells …maybe a new battery solves it for 2 years because of the constant draw when idle in the winter annually.
Are you sure the car went into sleep mode? You have retained accessory power to the radio for up to 15 minutes after the key is off. I haven't done this test myself on the C5 but you probably need to wait the full 15 minutes, with the meter still connected in series, until it goes into sleep mode. At a minimum you need to wait for the under hood light to go out.
**** sorry couldn't find garage after a bottle Jacks just home from laying behind a bush. Checked sleep mode now .210. Its going to be a little warmer, so im going to tackle it to day. but until then, if anybody has any more advice feel free to share or not. Thanks guys
And we might be doing all this diagnostic for nothing …I do know the auto theft / alarm is activated when doors get locked … a possibility here is that over time when sitting for a few months the constant draw for the alarm is just draining and causing your battery to have weak cells …maybe a new battery solves it for 2 years because of the constant draw when idle in the winter annually.
Bat is 6 month old. I can leave the bat off for weeks and when i hook it back up it starts right away and cranks fast. It holds 12.6. Even in this cold weather.
If i hook bat back on within 2 days its dead.
You measure 0.25 amp inline with the battery - is this immediately after you connect the meter or after a few minutes after it goes to sleep? Do do have an after market stereo or alarm system?
Yes Disconnect all aftermarket accessories. No change If i drive it every day no problems starting but a little slower crank.
Yes Disconnect all aftermarket accessories. No change If i drive it every day no problems starting but a little slower crank.
FWIW.....Helga, I had this problem once, years ago. I hope your problem isn't the same as I had. Mine turned out to be a bad BCM. Not cheap to fix, and even more to replace new (when they were still available new!). I spent close to $900.00 back in 2014 for the last new C5 BCM they had in the AC/Delco warehouse near Detroit, Mi.. Been good ever since. I know it used to be around $400.00-$500.00 to repair, but IDK what it'd cost today. Best of luck, my friend.....
Anti theft / alarm using more then expected … ? I know you have most of it unhooked but possible maybe when u did the stereo wiring did you run some wires together that maybe shouldn’t be tied ? Is the fuel pump constantly drawing power ? Just trying to help narrow your search interior light work and shut off as intended? Honestly it really does seem like a stereo wiring issue, but if it’s like ya say it’s disconnected have u pulled the stereo and taped off the ends and gave it a go or just removed the fuse ? Got me stumped
210-250mA draw is too high. Maybe start pulling fuses one at a time and watch your current meter. If the Bose draws 100mA after its asleep thats a problem. Don't forget the fuses down on the passenger floor. My first suspect would be an aftermarket stereo or amp next would be an alarm then the power seats. I had a '98 back in the day and I couldn't go two weeks without putting it on a maintainer and I think it was because of the proximity sensor for the fob on the early cars and it also had a lojack that probably drew some power. Good luck
Anti theft / alarm using more then expected … ? I know you have most of it unhooked but possible maybe when u did the stereo wiring did you run some wires together that maybe shouldn’t be tied ? Is the fuel pump constantly drawing power ? Just trying to help narrow your search interior light work and shut off as intended? Honestly it really does seem like a stereo wiring issue, but if it’s like ya say it’s disconnected have u pulled the stereo and taped off the ends and gave it a go or just removed the fuse ? Got me stumped
Thanks speedy, yes every wire was taped off and fuse pulled and i'm leavening off to keep it out of the equation. hopefully figure this out.
210-250mA draw is too high. Maybe start pulling fuses one at a time and watch your current meter. If the Bose draws 100mA after its asleep thats a problem. Don't forget the fuses down on the passenger floor. My first suspect would be an aftermarket stereo or amp next would be an alarm then the power seats. I had a '98 back in the day and I couldn't go two weeks without putting it on a maintainer and I think it was because of the proximity sensor for the fob on the early cars and it also had a lojack that probably drew some power. Good luck
All aftermarket stereo equipment is disconnected. No power seats or alarm. Thats were im at, working on the floor fues. I ruled out engine by disconnecting power to fuse box and same draw. I don't use fob because my goes crazy before i put the key in the ignition.
FWIW.....Helga, I had this problem once, years ago. I hope your problem isn't the same as I had. Mine turned out to be a bad BCM. Not cheap to fix, and even more to replace new (when they were still available new!). I spent close to $900.00 back in 2014 for the last new C5 BCM they had in the AC/Delco warehouse near Detroit, Mi.. Been good ever since. I know it used to be around $400.00-$500.00 to repair, but IDK what it'd cost today. Best of luck, my friend.....
Good question!!! I don't remember how, because it was 16 years ago, and my car went off the road for the next 8 years. Answer lost to history (and an aging memory chip!!). Sorry. But I'm sure someone will chime in that knows how...