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Car started every day no problems or driving issues. Next morning went to start car dead 3v on the battery. Put charger on for 5 min and started right up NO CODES. Grove it all day on problems, 0 issues started up fine with all the stops i had to make. Though it was a fluke because never had this problem. Well i wrong next morning same. Groundhogs day. did same thing as the prior day. Put amp meter between negative side of battery and to my surprise its pulling 25 amps. Let the car go into sleep mode still pulling 25amp open the door no change. Disconnected fuse box in engine compartment no change. Checked all relays to find the one that's warm or hot considering its pulling 25 amps. I'm surprised a wire hasn't melted or a fuse blown. Checked fuses for v across fuses all good. Took feed off to alt also. ANy help would be nice,Thx
If i cant resolve this im just going to put a switch inline with the neg. Im so fed up with this car that i can't believe i didn't drive it off a cliff.
And checked amp meter, working fine
Last edited by helga203; Oct 31, 2020 at 12:13 PM.
Not understanding your diagnostic process. If you have a 25 amp draw with the meter inline, pull fuses/relays until you find when the draw stops. It could be a seat switch/motor for a draw that big - you will know when you pull the fuse to the offending circuit. There are 2 power centers on the car, one under the pass feet. Sorry if I missed something.
A 25 amp draw is really big. Are you certain it's not 2.5?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Oct 31, 2020 at 11:02 PM.
Thanks guys for answering. I have no power seats, i'm using the check the fuses for voltage draw. Here's the meter and this draw is constant. Does not change when it goes into sleep mode. Thanks for the read.
I took the positive cable from the engine compartment fuse center did that do anything for me?
What am I looking at in that last picture? You have the meter leads connected to the Volt/resistance input but the rotary switch set to DC amps. The meter won't work like that.
What am I looking at in that last picture? You have the meter leads connected to the Volt/resistance input but the rotary switch set to DC amps. The meter won't work like that.
I showed all the positions on the meter to show what values im getting. The two that are on the right connections show 0 amp draw that can't be right or am i missing something here??
Yes i forgot to change to ml amp. It's impossible not to draw amps especially not in sleep mode?? I'm i doing something wrong??
Have you isolated your current draw to either the interior fuse block or engine fuse block? I would disconnect battery cable at engine fuse block leaving only the positive cable that connects to the starter in place and check sleep mode current. Disconnect battery cable leading to interior fuse block after verifying normal sleep mode current with only the starter cable connected.
Have you isolated your current draw to either the interior fuse block or engine fuse block? I would disconnect battery cable at engine fuse block leaving only the positive cable that connects to the starter in place and check sleep mode current. Disconnect battery cable leading to interior fuse block after verifying normal sleep mode current with only the starter cable connected.
I dont know whats on right im not getting any current draw. I'm getting 0 draw. How could that be??
I order for you to check current draw the meter has to be in series with the battery (unless you use a shunt in series).
Disconnect the neg battery cable from the neg terminal of your battery and let it hang disconnected for the moment
Connect the red meter lead into the 10A socket of your meter
Connect the black meter lead to the common socket of your meter
Set the meter to DC amp, don't press the range hold, let it autorange
Connect the red meter lead to the neg terminal of your battery
Connect the black meter lead to the Neg battery cable end
What does the meter read now? If it reads more than 10Amp (unlikely) disconnect the meter leads, you don't want to blow the fuse in the meter if you can help it (they cost about $10 ea)
If it reads less then 0.3A repeat above but with the red meter lead connected to the 300mA socket.
A prefect functioning car will still draw some current after it goes into sleep mode so a reading of zero can't be right.
The only things that can draw that much power are the cigarette lighter & the lighter hole under the center console most likely try to un plug the cig lighter and disconnect the aux port inside the console and see if this shuts that off ...factory amps pull some juice as well I have my un hooked at the door amp wires because of a aftermarket stereo ...u could possible be searching for a interior light that’s not shutting off ....nothing big I would guesss to go modifying circuits
Thx for the reply guys, ill check those i did disconnected the red cable as you said but ouvioul meter wasnt working.. Don't know what happen but both the fuses are blown in the meter.
If you blew the fuse, you either over currented the meter OR put the meter leads across the positive and negative like you would measure VOLTAGE. That will blow then every time. You MUST read current in SERIES from the negative battery terminal to the NEG Battery cable. Always start the current measurement in the 10 AMP scale as the car can draw 5-6 amps during the first connection of the leads. I saw mine draw 8 amps at first connection.
If you are drawing 25 AMPS, the meter would have blown the fuse right off the bat and you would have seen a BIG spark when you connected the leads. The correct current draw that you should be seeing is 20-25 MILLIAMPS That would be 0.020 on the 10 amp scale.
The best( in my opinion) way of identifying a fuse with unwanted currentdraw is to put the meter on milli volt range and measure the voltage across each fuse .
Ok guys sorry i didn't get back sooner. Update i finally got back to tackle draw issue. Pulling .250a. Did all what was suggested and the common list to check. Disk connect positive wire under hood to the fuse back and same reading so, i can rule out fuse box under hood out, i think. So i don't know why i did not get voltage across fuse so i pulled the fuse and draw fell to .150. had to help neighbor and the temp dropped to low 20s. I read the battery volts were 12.6 before leaving After a week i checked the battery again and still 12.6 so connected battery and started car with absolutely no problems fast crack. Left battery cable on. Checked volts 2 days later battery at 7v took 5 min to charge full 12.6 again. and car started prefect again. Ok here's what confusing i connect inline with the ground wire with both my meters and it would not show an amp reading. While still connected i hear a clicking noise by the front right light.. I check the meters by putting in line with my 1amp charger and it went up to 4amps, i have a 6amp fuse in my meter.
PS i checked all relay with a laser temp gauge and there all the same reading.??
PSS I'm dead serious i'm so sick of this. I will pay u $50. Anyway u want to get payed.
Any thoughts???
This is how i set the meter.
Last edited by helga203; Jan 19, 2022 at 12:49 PM.
You measure 0.25 amp inline with the battery - is this immediately after you connect the meter or after a few minutes after it goes to sleep? Do do have an after market stereo or alarm system?
Battery Drain
