I now this feed is old but wondering if you are still active and available for some follow up questions on the fuel sender issue as I am struggling with it now!! Thanks
Robert Webb
spyderwebb58@gmail.com

 

Everything you should need is in this thread. As for whether they are good or bad, mine were definitely bad. They were worn out to the point that the resistor/potentiometer had different contact points touching each other, which is a no-no. But my car had around 130,000 miles on it at that point. Another forum member, spfautsch, has a thread on here as well. You could try PMing him for the link @spfautsch

 

Thanks will follow up!! Main question was if the sender (by them selves) are still available!! so far as my Chevy dealer knows they are not at least the DS one...you can get the PS module but he said it was $700+!!
Spyder

 

I bought mine at Rock Auto. Last I knew, they had only one side available, but don't remember which side it was/is. Check Rock Auto. To make it all work happily, you have to remove one float arm from the new assembly, and remove the old float arm from that same side. Then you install the old float arm you removed onto the new assembly that you removed the new float arm from. In other words, they are identical senders EXCEPT for the float arm assembly. Hope this helps......

 

Thanks Grinder!!! I tried RA with the AC-Delco/GM numbers and got blank!! You still have the part number??? what GM says is it takes the 19421094 agree both sides are the same less the float orientation (opposite left to right}.

Spyder

 

I don't have the part#. Maybe spfautsch has it

 

I believe RA was running out of stock of the senders. That's why they were on sale and they only had 1 side left in stock. Since a lot of time has passed since I did this, and given you can't find any at RA, their NOS supply has probably sold out. I don't know of anyone making a reproduction part. But there may be someone who is. Have you tried the GM dealer. Also, the part# you checked on may be the side RA was out of when I bought my senders; i.e.-maybe you're checking the part# for the side they no longer have, but the part number for the other side may still be available? Sorry I can't help more......

 

So i found the parts in RA...under the Delphi brand... LS, LSF137 and the RS, FT4120 and both are not in stock and I left an order and contact for when they are reupped (if they actually do)!! In the mean time I think I will try and clean them....I did not have the problem till recently when I upgraded the fuel pump (Racetronic's SF255) for my supercharger application and believe I may have damaged it in the reassembly (what a mother that was to get in)! after suspecting this I went back in far enough to expose the sending unit and found I had bent the float rod, disassembled it and reinstalled and it worked briefly... then stopped!!! So I am sure my issues is on the RS sender as it is the responsible sender for below a half tank (as I have learned from the thread) and I have not put in more than 10 gals fearing I may have to go back in!!! So my finial thought was to have the sending unit in hand when I go back in!!! I will keep searching and conducting the tests laid out and hope I find a solution...I can not stand it when I have something on this car (or anything I own) that does not work, and I have to put up with a check gauge light and a low fuel indicator warring!!

 

Just my opinion-BUT!! You should consider contacting GM or the district rep for Chevrolet. Why? Because I think GM AND Chevrolet would be REAL INTERESTED to see the business practices of one of their dealers involves charging $700 for a $50 part!!! Makes GM and Chevrolet both look like dog dung. Then the "poor" dealers wonder why we call them "Stealers."

 

19421094 is still the correct part #. RA hasn't had any in stock for a couple years and shortly after selling all of them removed the part # from their lookup matrix. They only show a Delphi and Standard and neither are stocked. All that info is contained in this thread - back around post 90. Some of my pictures have gotten removed but the links to the full-resolution versions still work.

My guess is they quoted him for a complete sending unit module that comes with everything including the pump, bulkhead, etc.

Whatever the case, I'm afraid that the supply of these parts has dried up and we can only hope someone in the aftermarket recognizes the demand and makes a run. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with how these boards are created - my assumption the base material is some sort of ceramic.

In the era these cars were manufactured, GM would generally produce enough spare parts to last 10 years from end of model production. But GM and AC Delco of old are no more and the new gm doesn't care as much about keeping their vehicles on the road as they did prior to cash-for-clunkers and the government bailout.

 

FYI, you can use HPT to deactivate the fault codes for the fuel level senders and then the fuel gauge works perfect and no more tank warnings on the DIC. At least mine does and has for the past 6 months since I did this. YMMV.

 

can you elaborate on the process... i do not actually have a fault code!!...stuck on empty and post's a low fuel warring!

 

Sure, you need a tool like HPTuners that allows you to modify the engine diagnostics in the tune. When the ECU detects an issue with your fuel system it throws a DTC and also commands the fuel level needle to zero and creates warnings on the DIC. So you need to write down the DTC codes that are causing this. Then you need to read your tune and modify it, specifically the engine diagnostics to have the ECU ignore the fuel level related fault codes. Then write the modified tune back to the ECU. This is a 5 min procedure once you are familiar with HPTuners. Then the minor reading errors that cause the ECU to freak out are ignored and the fuel level works fine. If your fuel level senders are not functioning wel,l then you might not get the same results I did, that's why YMMV. But in my case, the ECU fuel level error detection was a little too sensitive since everything works fine now with the error detection disabled.

The codes you care about should be:
DTC P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Performance
DTC P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Voltage
DTC P1431 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Performance
DTC P1432 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P1433 Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-from-gm.html

 

Welp... I could use a little help with this. When I bought the car (three years ago) I saw that the sending units were still available on RA, while shopping for other parts. I've tried reaching out to RA and they have told me that both the GM and Doorman sending units are no longer offered by the manufacture.
I'm not sure if the sending unit is bad or just dirty? Original one owner car told me he ran 87 octane cat **** exclusively when I drove it home. I've fed it nothing but 93 premium since.
Keeps tripping Low fuel light at about 7/8 of a tank after every fill up now. Code P1431 comes on the DIC every time this happens. I clear it, it comes back. I tried way too much Techron to no avail. I have a 1998 coupe (70K miles). From what I read above one or both sending units has the yellow wire with 250 Ohm resistor. Is that both sides, that yellow wire with resistor, or just the right side?
I called the local tuner and he said he didn't know about anything in HP tuners about scaling back the sensitivity for the sending unit(s) and he thought it would probably be best to change the sending units both at the same time.
Last year, I procured a left side NIB ACDelco PN 10333749 however this unit does not have the yellow wire. Since this is a known problem on these cars I'd like to and leaning towards to do this one and done. However I'm willing to try another tuner in the Chi-Town area if anyone knows someone that has done the HP tuner sensitivity route while I keep looking for a known good sending unit.
I'm also half tempted to try and clean both sending units since the original owner was running cat **** gas thru it for over two decades...
I see a right side on fleebay there is people selling the right side with yellow wire. There is no mention of who makes the dang thing. Has anyone tried one of these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/297346482439



Thanks for any help with this.

 

Yaa, i bought the same one about ten yrs as a backup. My pass side went out, so i gambled and i thought i came out ahead since i bought 25 new. when i went to install it i noticed the wires were diff colors, OEM is grey and blue. I said *** it i didnt want to do this again so i put the dust back on it and bought a OEM used one for 10bucks this is yrs later and still works. Ill only ues that one if all else fall to fine an OEM unit.. Didn't want to take the chance and the quality didn't look good as OEM. Didnt care if the ohms was in spec.

 

I replaced the right side sending unit with new Carter brand and had the same issue 7/8 and goes to zero on the gauge and triggers low fuel light on the dash. I do not remember if i cleared the P1431 code after changing the right side sending unit. Would that in itself cause the same issue of 7/8 dropping to zero again?
Installed new RA Delphi brand pump assembly (with new sending unit). Bought a "low mileage" used right side sending unit from ebay. After install, the Delphi leaked at the electrical connection, so I installed a new GM 10333749 sending unit on my original left side pump assy. After all of that I cannot fill the tanks now.
I have the FSM and I'm wondering which scan tool I need to operate the fuel pump to diagnose WTF is going on with the car. Pretty sick of sucking gasoline fumes in the driveway...
Edit: I wish I could have just went to RA or the dealer and buy that right side sending unit and/or a left side pump assembly.

New Delphi pump assy leaking at Electrical bulkhead. Very noisy btw

 

Though you do have an uncommon leak, I'd try to find exactly where the leak originates. Possibly try sealing all the bolt heads. If it is actually coming thru the electrical plug itself, it's probably junk. But if you can gain access on the backside of the connector, you may be able to somehow smear enough fiberglass resin around it to seal the connector against leakage, and fiberglass resin will be impervious to gasoline. If not, try Vettenuts or C&S. Hope this helps......