C5 climate control module /actuator problems
Take care,
Will look to the a/c as soon as i get the unit back.
Again, thanks.





If you have a dark HVAC Control module display, it is most likely is caused by cracked solder joints or loose or detached circuit board surface mounted resistors. Repeated heat/cold thermal cycling and vibrations cause the eight resistor soldered joints to crack and or fail. My resistor solder joints were cracked, and one had fully detached and was loose inside the module when I pulled it apart. This repair is very inexpensive and very straight forward. If you can solder, like WAYNE100 stated, (once the module is out, it's a 10 MIN FIX! ) You can also replace any burned out bulbs while the module is apart.
There are several excellent detailed videos on this DIY repair. Here is a very good one as it shows ANYONE can solder. LOL!
BLEND DOOR ACTUATORS: They fail! The nylon output shaft gear normally cracks/splits and can no longer move the blend door to its desired location. The two HVAC DTCs ( B3567 and B3565 ) tell you that one or both actuators are not functioning correctly. Each actuator has a feedback variable resistor inside the actuator. If it does not match what is commanded to the actual actuator position, each actuator will throw its own DTC. You should try the recommended actuator recalibration procedure first. If the drive gear or any other nylon gear is damaged it may work for a couple of cycles and eventually get out of sync again or it could just fail to resync.
ACTUATORS: GM makes TWO different types of blend door actuators for C5 HVAC systems. One specifically for the manually operated HVAC System and Two for the Automatically controlled system.
NOTE! The two different system type actuators are NOT compatible with each other system. The manual actuator does not have a feed back sensor inside of it and will NOT work on the AUTO HVAC System.
It is recommended to look at the output shaft splined hup on the actuator while you operate the temperature **** for that side. You should be able to change that (side temp ****) and watch the output shaft hub rotate through its HOT/COLD range. Do this for BOTH SIDES! If the hub fails to move or only partially moves thru its range when commanded, the actuator is BAD!
REPLACING THE ACUATORS: The drivers side actuator can be replaced without too much rigamrore. Fitting your body into the drivers footwell and under the dash is never that easy but doable. The passenger's side is a whole different story and requires dash pad removal. The easiest way to do both actuators is to remove the dash pad. A fairly time-consuming task but straight forward:
Herer is a YouTube video that you can watch to help guide you through LEFT (DRIVERS SIDE) and RIGHT (PASSENGERS SIDE) actuator replacement:
NOTE!!! If you are going to remove the dash pad, consider replacing the HUD Benzel, the Defrost Grill and the Emergency Flasher Switch. If you live in the hot south, the H Benzel and Defrost grill will be as brittle as eggshells! ASK MR HOW I KNOW! ;


Yes, I have to replace BOTH Actuators on my 02 ZO6.The Emergency Flasher Switch just fails over time and it's a bitch to get to if you don't remove the dash pad!
All of that brown foam padding on different under dash components will have turned to sticky sludge due to age. If you want to replace it, just purchase some thin foam sheet and cut it into the required shape and spray adhesive it back on the parts.
Just my take and 2 cents on this topic. Hope it helps you solve your actuator issue/s
NOTE #3 Anytime you disconnect the battery, or the battery goes very low, reconnecting it will generate random DTCs. Just clear ALL the old DTCs after you are all done with the job. If any DTCs come back, those are the ones that you should investigate further.
Bill C
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 29, 2025 at 04:16 PM.
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