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This will give you a good idea on steps. We do not lower the subframe. Instead we used 2 people move the rack to the passenger side far enough to get the tie rod inside the frame rail. Then up and out the drivers side over the fender. The second person is very helpful to keep the tie rods from catching on the frame/subframe.
Where are you located @Slicktop ? I have the Summit HB tool that you cannot find. I am glad to let you use it. I could not have removed my HB without it, your experience may differ of course.
Where are you located @Slicktop ? I have the Summit HB tool that you cannot find. I am glad to let you use it. I could not have removed my HB without it, your experience may differ of course.
I'm in Bonaire, Georgia. Oh man, that would be amazing if I could borrow (or buy it) off you!
EDIT: Just sent you a PM
Last edited by Slicktop; Mar 15, 2023 at 12:46 PM.
You don't need that wrench to hold the balancer - Leave the transmission in gear, yank on the parking brake, and hit it with an impact. If it doesn't budge or if the wheels turn, put the rear on the ground and use a breaker bar. Could also bump the starter with a socket and long breaker bar on the bolt (do this one at your own risk!).
You don't need that wrench to hold the balancer - Leave the transmission in gear, yank on the parking brake, and hit it with an impact. If it doesn't budge or if the wheels turn, put the rear on the ground and use a breaker bar. Could also bump the starter with a socket and long breaker bar on the bolt (do this one at your own risk!).
I'm sure in some cases this works, but in my case it did not. There was just enough play even in 5th or 6th and with tires on the floor and e-brake on that the impact wouldn't knock it loose. Regardless, it surely doesn't hurt to use the Summit tool.
I don't use an impact on the balancer, and I would never use an impact to tighten the bolt. If I ever did use an impact it would be to loosen the bolt.
The crank stop works great and if you can't torque it to spec, get a friend to help.
Hey Guys, I've done some research on this topic and just wanted to ask for any additional inputs...
I was going to let a shop do this job, but after watching Toys4Life and a few other videos on YouTube, as well as reading a few articles, I want to make sure the job is done properly. And we all know the saying, "If you want something done right..."
Parts Needed
Summit Racing Harmonic Balancer: SUM-c2501
ARP Harmonic Balancer bolt: 2342503
OEM GM Harmonic Balancer new seal: GM#12585673
A&A crank pin kit
Is ARP HB bolt 2342504 good as well? Only difference with the 2342503 seems to be the underhead lenght...
If you’re doing stuff while you’re in there, here’s the list I used.
The true GM OEM water pump is ACDelco # 12681185. They are not getting any cheaper, and are back ordered on Summit. Available on some GM sights, but cost more.
Last edited by vette4fl; Mar 17, 2023 at 02:51 AM.
I did NOT want to remove the Rack - So I did mine by lowering the cradle / lifting the engine. I did a LOT of other stuff 'while in there'... Heads, Cam, Guts, Pump & Seals, 3/8 shorter Engine Mounts (The are not motor mounts - motors are electric), Radiator, Headers, New, pinned Balancer, LSA, Intercooler & Plumbing, etc. For me, it was the best way - I also have a lift.
YMMV.
Engine v Motor is just a pet Peeve of mine - I assume your were being sarcastic?
Yes, I did do a lot of work - Project Creep reared it's UGLY head.
Guts = BTR Stage 3 PD blower cam, LS7 Lifters & Cups, LS2 Chain & Dampener, LS9 Head Gaskets, ARP Studs, and a few other things that short term memory has flushed, ya know - All that stuff that goes in the gut of the engine (It is NOT a Motor)
It is running but tuning has been an issue. I might have installed something upside down or ?? - it has been a BEAR to tune so far.
I just modded the Fuel system to make it easier (hopefully) for the H.O.F. Tuner. - time will tell. Soon, I hope.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by JumboShrimp
Engine v Motor is just a pet Peeve of mine - I assume your were being sarcastic?
Yes, I did do a lot of work - Project Creep reared it's UGLY head.
Guts = BTR Stage 3 PD blower cam, LS7 Lifters & Cups, LS2 Chain & Dampener, LS9 Head Gaskets, ARP Studs, and a few other things that short term memory has flushed, ya know - All that stuff that goes in the gut of the engine (It is NOT a Motor)
It is running but tuning has been an issue. I might have installed something upside down or ?? - it has been a BEAR to tune so far.
I just modded the Fuel system to make it easier (hopefully) for the H.O.F. Tuner. - time will tell. Soon, I hope.
What fuel system did you end up going with?
Your list is about as long as mine just different vendors
Seriously, no sarcasm lol, I just didn’t know what you were referring to.
Your car looks amazing, btw.
Which coils and valve covers did you choose?
Originally Posted by JumboShrimp
Engine v Motor is just a pet Peeve of mine - I assume your were being sarcastic?
Yes, I did do a lot of work - Project Creep reared it's UGLY head.
Guts = BTR Stage 3 PD blower cam, LS7 Lifters & Cups, LS2 Chain & Dampener, LS9 Head Gaskets, ARP Studs, and a few other things that short term memory has flushed, ya know - All that stuff that goes in the gut of the engine (It is NOT a Motor)
It is running but tuning has been an issue. I might have installed something upside down or ?? - it has been a BEAR to tune so far.
I just modded the Fuel system to make it easier (hopefully) for the H.O.F. Tuner. - time will tell. Soon, I hope.
