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Hey Guys, I've done some research on this topic and just wanted to ask for any additional inputs...
I was going to let a shop do this job, but after watching Toys4Life and a few other videos on YouTube, as well as reading a few articles, I want to make sure the job is done properly. And we all know the saying, "If you want something done right..."
Parts Needed
Summit Racing Harmonic Balancer: SUM-c2501
ARP Harmonic Balancer bolt: 2342503
OEM GM Harmonic Balancer new seal: GM#12585673
A&A crank pin kit
Specialty Tools
Summit Racing Harmonic Balancer Wrench: SME-906008
OTC Harmonic Balancer Puller: 6667
LS Harmonic Balancer install tool: (off amazon)
Seal Installer Kit: (off amazon, PBT70961)
I don't PLAN on supercharging my vette, but pinning the balancer seems like extra insurance - so why not? I do plan on adding a cam, headers, intake, tune at some point. Am I missing anything? I have a low profile jack w/ jack stands, jack pucks, all the hand tools, and the attitude. I'll buy some extra power steering fluid to top off whatever spills.
I might buy new belts, just to change them out while I'm there. The car has 90k miles, not sure when the water pump should be replaced. What do you guys think?
I'm looking at doing mine soon too but can't find stock of some of the tools... the harmonic balancer wrench that Toys4Life used looks really useful but I can't find one online that is available any more. Summit have a fuller kit of parts but the wrench part doesn't have two holes for breaker bars, only one, which would seem to defeat the object of it somewhat.
I just finished doing the Harmonic Balancer on my 2006 base with 81,000 miles. I used the method of not pulling out the steering rack, rather, dropping the engine brace, supporting the engine with a bottle jack, which lowers the brace and steering so that you can get at the balancer. Several write ups on this forum. I did the balancer, water pump, all belts, tensioner pulleys, pulleys, hoses and pinned the balancer. I used the Summit balancer. My entire cost was maybe $650 - $700. My view is while you are in there, get as much done as you can....everything is new! I have left over the 1 1/16 socket, harmonic puller, installer and pin kit. If you are interested let me know. I will sell them for a good price. If you do this project, I can give you some pointers and maybe a little advice and some swearwords you may not be familiar with!! Not an easy job but very doable, with some patience.
If you drill and pin your crank/balancer now, when you don't really need to, you will still have to redrill it again for
a cam change, balancer replace, etc.
It's very hard to reinstall a pin in its original position.
Don't know how safe it is to be drilling multiple holes in the crank/balancer.
Doing work twice sucks, and I have breaking the cooling system apart, catching coolant etc. I'd replace, the tensioners, AC belt, and water pump. I'd look for stiff hoses with the steam vent hose bein the most likley to crank. The main serpentine belt is easy enough to change so that is your call.
Just reinstalled a balancer on a supercharger build that was professionally pinned. It wasn't a big deal to line up. Maybe we were lucky maybe it was the quality of the pinning by the machinist. Pinning is a good idea but not mandatory on a NA stock shortblock.
I just finished doing the Harmonic Balancer on my 2006 base with 81,000 miles. I used the method of not pulling out the steering rack, rather, dropping the engine brace, supporting the engine with a bottle jack, which lowers the brace and steering so that you can get at the balancer. Several write ups on this forum. I did the balancer, water pump, all belts, tensioner pulleys, pulleys, hoses and pinned the balancer. I used the Summit balancer. My entire cost was maybe $650 - $700.
I've replaced the balancer on two C5 that I owned by removing the steering rack; I did not find the rack removal to be particularly difficult. The procedure you describe sounds more involved and time consuming that removing the steering rack.
Lots of good discussion here!
* Nice looking C5!
* 100% stock doesn't require pinning - especially if the owner does not drive aggressively often.
* If you ever have to re-install a pinned balancer, make a precision mark on it before removal and take the time to make a pointer with a tip that is bolted or clamped to the car pointing right at said mark. You should be able to re-install and get the pin in the same hole if you are very diligent - but not by "eyeballing it" that is for sure.
* I would at least attach a radiator pressure tester to the system before you start and when you are in there you can get an excellent view of the weep hole in the pump to see if there is any leakage. If it is dry - I would leave it. Could it still fail next week- yes. Could a reman fail next week - yes.
Lots of good discussion here!
* Nice looking C5!
* 100% stock doesn't require pinning - especially if the owner does not drive aggressively often.
* If you ever have to re-install a pinned balancer, make a precision mark on it before removal and take the time to make a pointer with a tip that is bolted or clamped to the car pointing right at said mark. You should be able to re-install and get the pin in the same hole if you are very diligent - but not by "eyeballing it" that is for sure.
* I would at least attach a radiator pressure tester to the system before you start and when you are in there you can get an excellent view of the weep hole in the pump to see if there is any leakage. If it is dry - I would leave it. Could it still fail next week- yes. Could a reman fail next week - yes.
Cheers!
T4L
Toys,
Thank you for your video on the balancer change. I followed your process on my 99 when I changed my oil pump/sump o-ring. I went ahead and changed the balancer also.
I am still chasing the low oil pressure issue and am now dropping the oil pan. This time tearing down to the balancer level seemed like a simple task. Had the rack out, balancer off, front cover off in a couple of hours using jack stands.
There is no need to pin the balancer for a non FI application.
Originally Posted by TheBac
True, but it makes sense to do it while he's in there already. You never know....
I will strongly take your advice to heart, ipuiq. I may skip pinning the balancer this time, until I possibly do the cam.
Originally Posted by sayerbloke
... the harmonic balancer wrench that Toys4Life used looks really useful but I can't find one online that is available any more.
Can't you just flip it over and use the breaker bar hole on the other side?
Originally Posted by Ghump
If you are interested let me know. I will sell them for a good price. If you do this project, I can give you some pointers and maybe a little advice and some swearwords you may not be familiar with!! Not an easy job but very doable, with some patience.
Appreciate the offer, but I've already bought everything listed above - and I still have more stuff coming in. I'll take the swearwords though! Hahaha!
Originally Posted by MSG C5
Beautiful C5!
Thank you! It was love at first sight!
Originally Posted by johnson-rod
Change the water pump.
Originally Posted by Garyg51
change the belt and tensioners while your in there.
Originally Posted by 93Polo
I'd replace, the tensioners, AC belt, and water pump. I'd look for stiff hoses with the steam vent hose bein the most likley to crank. The main serpentine belt is easy enough to change so that is your call.
The list will never stop growing, aghhhhh!!!!
Originally Posted by nitromainia
Do it All! ....Or you’ll just be Back there Again Soon
Is.... is there a gofundme for C5 owners somewhere? My poor little $400 job has turned into quite the event!
Originally Posted by Toys4Life C5
Lots of good discussion here!
* Nice looking C5!
* 100% stock doesn't require pinning - especially if the owner does not drive aggressively often.
* If you ever have to re-install a pinned balancer, make a precision mark on it before removal and take the time to make a pointer with a tip that is bolted or clamped to the car pointing right at said mark. You should be able to re-install and get the pin in the same hole if you are very diligent - but not by "eyeballing it" that is for sure.
* I would at least attach a radiator pressure tester to the system before you start and when you are in there you can get an excellent view of the weep hole in the pump to see if there is any leakage. If it is dry - I would leave it. Could it still fail next week- yes. Could a reman fail next week - yes.
Cheers!
T4L
Huge thanks to you for all of the info you're putting up on YouTube. Wish you were closer, would love to buy you a beer and steak dinner. Maybe one day that'll happen!
I'm looking at doing mine soon too but can't find stock of some of the tools... the harmonic balancer wrench that Toys4Life used looks really useful but I can't find one online that is available any more. Summit have a fuller kit of parts but the wrench part doesn't have two holes for breaker bars, only one, which would seem to defeat the object of it somewhat.
It only needs the one hole for the breaker bar. Use the same hole for removal as well as installation just on opposite sides.
It only needs the one hole for the breaker bar. Use the same hole for removal as well as installation just on opposite sides.
Thanks
As I understand it, with the use of that tool, it means not needing to remove the starter motor to use one of the flywheel locking tools? OK, yes, that tool is more expensive than the flywheel locking ones but it seems to make the job less complicated!
Yes, lines disconnected. It will move up and stick out passenger wheel well probably 18". Car positioning for job needs to be planned for it to stick out that much. No wall or anything in the way. I did remove fans per your recommendation. Lots of room doing that!
Last edited by AJ Powers; Mar 14, 2023 at 01:12 PM.
Harmonic Balancer Job
