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Old May 12, 2023 | 09:49 AM
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Hey Gang,

Am about to either fix or send out for repair my EBCM on my C5 - the warming lights come on and off. The question I have is whether or not you have to bleed the brakes after you reinstall the EBCM unit Thx Max
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Old May 12, 2023 | 01:05 PM
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No, if it just the EBCM. It is the BPMV that the EBCM is attached to that contains the hydraulic circuits.
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Old May 12, 2023 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Max2fat
Hey Gang,

Am about to either fix or send out for repair my EBCM on my C5 - the warming lights come on and off. The question I have is whether or not you have to bleed the brakes after you reinstall the EBCM unit Thx Max
Are you sure it's the EBCM it could be something as simple as a bad connection to a wheel bearing. Pull the codes and see whats going on
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Old May 13, 2023 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Max2fat
Hey Gang,

Am about to either fix or send out for repair my EBCM on my C5 - the warming lights come on and off. The question I have is whether or not you have to bleed the brakes after you reinstall the EBCM unit Thx Max
We would need the year to determine if a repair can be had. 2001-2004...send that puppy to ABSfixer.com. I had the EBCM in my 2004 rebuilt by them and they did a great job with great communication and turn around time.

Bleeding the brakes are NOT required as you are just disconnecting and removing the module [not messing with the actual hydraulic side]. Is it a good idea to bleed the brakes afterwards...I did...just for piece of mind [and I was doing other brake work as well].

IF....you have lower then a 2001, send off repair is not an options unfortunately. You will either have to find a used donor unit...or live without ABS and traction control. This was one of my main concerns when shopping and the reason I selected to only look at 2001-2004's as this EBCM issue was so prevalent with these cars.
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Old May 13, 2023 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by averagejoesautos
We would need the year to determine if a repair can be had. 2001-2004...send that puppy to ABSfixer.com. I had the EBCM in my 2004 rebuilt by them and they did a great job with great communication and turn around time.

Bleeding the brakes are NOT required as you are just disconnecting and removing the module [not messing with the actual hydraulic side]. Is it a good idea to bleed the brakes afterwards...I did...just for piece of mind [and I was doing other brake work as well].

IF....you have lower then a 2001, send off repair is not an options unfortunately. You will either have to find a used donor unit...or live without ABS and traction control. This was one of my main concerns when shopping and the reason I selected to only look at 2001-2004's as this EBCM issue was so prevalent with these cars.
I don't think the '97-'00 problem is as prevalent as some here think. I'm coming up on 140,000 miles on my C5, and I've never had a problem.....yet. probably will now, though!!! You don't hear much, if anything, from owners that do not have any issues. Only the few that do. One thing some here say to do is maybe once per month, take the car out on wet street after a rain, and force/exercise the EBCM into activating. You don't have to drive it 6 miles away, driving 70mph. Just drive it down the street at 20-25mph for an 1/8 mile, and get on the brakes a few times-HARD. This would ensure nothing "freezes up" from lack of use.
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Old May 13, 2023 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
I don't think the '97-'00 problem is as prevalent as some here think. I'm coming up on 140,000 miles on my C5, and I've never had a problem.....yet. probably will now, though!!! You don't hear much, if anything, from owners that do not have any issues. Only the few that do. One thing some here say to do is maybe once per month, take the car out on wet street after a rain, and force/exercise the EBCM into activating. You don't have to drive it 6 miles away, driving 70mph. Just drive it down the street at 20-25mph for an 1/8 mile, and get on the brakes a few times-HARD. This would ensure nothing "freezes up" from lack of use.
Sage advice my man. I drive older vehicles (more money to drink beer instead of pay car notes lol). BUT...its getting harder and harder to keep em on the road as parts and re-pop stuff is becoming scarce. When my 99 dodge ABS module **** the bed, ABSfixer.com was the only one who would touch it. Here in the great state of Virginia, any brake lights on the dash is an automatic fail. I could live without ABS as did millions of Americans before 1990 did lol. I digress though...the system isnt necessarily the issue...its the SHITTY GOT DAMMwou SOLDER JOB whoever GM contracted to do the electronics in theses cars. You would think soldered joints would last longer then 20 years but...that the Achilles heel. I had ABSfixers do my ABS module and Vettronics do my climate control module. Now...all my **** works . Ask me if I have ever had to do this on my mercedes of the same year ranges....NOPE!!!!
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Old May 14, 2023 | 07:51 AM
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The environmental conditions some of these cars live in will effect internals differently than others. Cars that go through deep cold winter temps and then hot summer temps, after 20+ years, that will age components faster, especially plastic pieces. Not everybody has a sweet garage for the car to live in.

As Smoken said, pull the codes, there are multiple reason why that code is popping. Sensors, dirty or damaged connectors, chaffed wires etc., who knows. It is not always the module itself.
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Old May 14, 2023 | 08:05 PM
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Wish I was one of the many with a 2000 and working EBCM.. I can live without trac control or ABS, learned to drive on rural snow covered roads. It's the damn lights on the speedo I can live without.
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Old May 14, 2023 | 09:43 PM
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check your error codes by holding options and pushing fuel 4 times.
I had ABS fixer repair my module (did a great job) but I had not checked the codes before sending it out.
I have 29 error codes including no comm to the ABS.
Best guess is bad ignition switch contractors as many of the codes say communication error.
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Old May 16, 2023 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by averagejoesautos
Sage advice my man. I drive older vehicles (more money to drink beer instead of pay car notes lol). BUT...its getting harder and harder to keep em on the road as parts and re-pop stuff is becoming scarce. When my 99 dodge ABS module **** the bed, ABSfixer.com was the only one who would touch it. Here in the great state of Virginia, any brake lights on the dash is an automatic fail. I could live without ABS as did millions of Americans before 1990 did lol. I digress though...the system isnt necessarily the issue...its the SHITTY GOT DAMMwou SOLDER JOB whoever GM contracted to do the electronics in theses cars. You would think soldered joints would last longer then 20 years but...that the Achilles heel. I had ABSfixers do my ABS module and Vettronics do my climate control module. Now...all my **** works . Ask me if I have ever had to do this on my mercedes of the same year ranges....NOPE!!!!
GMs reputation for picking quality vendors in the last 15-20 years is legendary I have an LS7 in my C5. Their choice of cylinder head machining vendors, and cylinder head components vendors, SUCKS. Trust me on that. The vendor for the C5 SWPS, Bosch (the vendor GM EMPLOYED to make it), has dictated to GM (the customer) that they will never make the C5 SWPS again. Companies shouldn't dictate to the customer!!! GM no longer makes things up to a quality, but they sure as Hell make things down to a price. Sorry for the hijack-I digress...
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Old May 16, 2023 | 08:59 PM
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Before you get to wrapped around the axel, the WARMING message is usually caused by the EBTCM being unable to complete its initial CHECK Routine. Usually caused by the driver moving the steering wheel (maneuvering) before it has a chance to complete the checks at initial start-up. SOMETIMES, this can be also be caused by excessive zero deviation of the Steering Wheel Position Sensor (SWPS) I highly recommend checking the front wheel alignment, and having someone use a TECH2 to check the zero alignment of the steering wheel / SWPS. When the cars wheels are dead straight, the SWPS has a very specific voltage output LEFT and RIGHT when the wheel is at dead straight on. . Make sure everything is dit dot correct with the SWPS and it output voltage. ABS Fixer will not be able to fix a warming message issue! TRUST ME!
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Old May 16, 2023 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cdee63
Wish I was one of the many with a 2000 and working EBCM.. I can live without trac control or ABS, learned to drive on rural snow covered roads. It's the damn lights on the speedo I can live without.
I am the same way. If mine ever goes out I'll be fine with no abs/traction control. But the lights would drive me nuts. I did a search in the forum one time and found a thread showing how to take apart the gauges. You can just pull the bulbs for those two. That's what I will be doing if mine ever goes out
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Old May 17, 2023 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cbibb
I am the same way. If mine ever goes out I'll be fine with no abs/traction control. But the lights would drive me nuts. I did a search in the forum one time and found a thread showing how to take apart the gauges. You can just pull the bulbs for those two. That's what I will be doing if mine ever goes out
As I was getting my 04 heap back on the road...I had rebuilt the ABS module and while out...figured what the hell, let me do the dash bulbs as well [another fiasco involving the bulbs and procuring them]. Anywhoooooo...the previous owner had been driving SOOOOOO LONG with the elements on the lights for the ABS, Traction control, Seat belt, and Check Engine lights had burned out So I am hear to tell you...its a little bit of work but...if you want them lights gone...pop the cluster and pull them I'm a fan for things working as intended to lol But if you fine sending it...remove the idiot lights.

Joe
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Old May 17, 2023 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by wrmiles
No, if it just the EBCM. It is the BPMV that the EBCM is attached to that contains the hydraulic circuits.
Thx so much will do Max
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