https://cammotion.com/ls-camshafts/low-boost-films-the-track-weapon-220-232-110-4/


Hi everyone, I'm looking to see if anyone has installed this particular cam. I'm interested in it, and wanted to hear your opinions about it. I'd like to make 420/400 at the wheels if I could. I'd go with a set of 243s. Car is a manual 3.42s, LG headers, x pipe, cats. As it sits it's making 354/376 on dynojet. I'm trying to talk myself out of it. But I wanted to obtain the same rwhp/tq of a stock c6 z06. Thanks.

 

That looks like a very torquey cam. I'd be surprised if it was able to hit 420, but it ought to hit north of 400. It's not that much smaller than the high 22X cams that put down 420, but that ICL is advanced a bit more.

 

420/400 IMO will take port work on the 243s and a FAST90 with 90mm tb most likely. I'd also step up to the Titan 4 LS1 227/232. A friend is running HPDEs this Titan 3 in his C5 without any issues on Morel drop in lifters, and 11/32 pushrods

 

Thanks. I was thinking of pairing it with these heads from Texas Speed,

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-11742-...retainers.aspx

Planning for 3.90s or 4.10s down the road. Maybe this isn't enough cam. I'd rather keep it on the tame side tho. Titan 3 looks good. I appreciate the feedback.

 

That’s more than enough cam. @Prop Joe did a recent build thread, and he got 420 whp with a smaller cam.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-coupe-m6.html

Ported 243’s will do nicely and save you a bundle vs the LS3 heads you referred to.

Figure you need about 460hp at the crank for 400whp. You’re adding a cam, headers, ported heads, and a tune, vs a Z06’s 405 hp. Should be fine.

I think it’s questionable whether you need a bigger intake/tb for your desired hp range.

 

I don't know of any results with the LS3 style heads on a LS1/6. Generally cathedrals give a bit better torque. I would do quite a bit of research before going that route.

We turned 455/415 with STD correction on a Titan 4, AFR205s, Kooks 1 3/4", FAST92 and LS2 TB, no port work on the FAST or LS2 TB. Yes I know STD reads higher than SAE. We weren't tuning to get a number but dial in a safe HPDE tune.

Prop Joe has a great topic and good results. IMO his results are on the higher end of average. I say this as I wouldn't want someone to be upset if thet don't get his number. I had a friend with a cam only build which was turning numbers on the dyno and track almost with heads and cam cars with the same cam. I wouldn't believe it if I didn't know him, the dyno operator, and tuner. Some motors just turn a better number off the assembly line. Also some dynos read differenty than others. He has a strong car and should be very happy.

 

Those are LS3 heads

 

Yes, I meant these. Apparently they have both. Trying to use good stuff. AFRs would be ideal. But $$$$$. Saving now for all this.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-18424-...retainers.aspx

 

Good catch I thought they were an LS3 small bore head which never seemed to catch on.

I wish TSP gave some more info on runner size etc. in the second link.

 

It is easy to snowball things for sure. But better to save and get what you want if you think you might have regrets.

 

That's for sure. Luckily for me this isn't a daily driver and I'll take my time doing this. My father, who is a master tech and wrenches on cars for a living recommends I don't open the engine up to do the heads and cam. He also owns a C5 and enjoys it regularly with minor bolt ons. Problem for me is I want to build it up. I think it's a great thing to have worked on every piece of your car making it your own.

 

His advice isn’t bad. For most folks who aren’t dead set on having an NA car, running a supercharger is probably the safer option. Opening up the engine has its downsides. You could reach your power goal easy and reliably with an a&a kit. I get it if a supercharger isn’t your thing though

 

Good advice and warning flares raised above. Your hunt for C6 Z06 hp isn't terribly difficult to obtain out of a well setup LS1. The real challenge will be getting your torque to the 415 to 430wtq range with an NA LS1.

420 to 450 whp can easily & somewhat cheaply be achieved with a cam in the 224 to 230 range, with WELL ported 241s or WELL ported 243s (emphasis on well ported because there is a major difference from one port job to the next), Longtubes, and injectors in an MN6 with LS6 intake. Add a mamo ported FAST intake and bigger TB to get you out of the 420's and closer to that 450 number on rwhp.

Again, that rwtq is where you're not going to make up the difference NA between a well built LS1 and a stock LS7. If you decide to go the FI route ECS is in NJ. So opting for the local support and tune from the designer over an A&A CA based kit installed or tuned by a third party likely makes more sense. Then you'll have gobs more torque and HP at the wheels than a stock LS7 and you can keep your heads, cam, TB and intake stock. Just factor in the cost of the kit, springs, clutch, stickier tires, and possibly an immediate torque tube rebuild. Maybe an electric water pump if your manual pump cracks in half. So about $10k-$12k all in DIY sans the tune (but baked into that cost).

I grew up in Northwest NJ, about as NW as one can get, and my family all still live up that way. Where are you located in Northwest NJ?

 

AFAIK, LS3 heads will not work on the LS1/LS6 blocks with a 3.900" bore. Valve stems will turn to pretzels!!

 

GM LS3s will not a few after market versions were offered for the 3.900" bore

 

Thanks Johnny, I'd be happy surpassing the 400 ft lbs rwtq. I think I can get it there with what you and everyone is suggesting in the good 243s. I love the idea of an ecs or a&a kit but the price and how I want to drive/use the car don't fit what I'm going for. Since your familiar with the roads up this way I'm not sure I'd be able to take full advantage of all the hp a FI kit would give me. Your c5 seems top notch , I just don't know if that route is right for me. I was figuring that for the cost of the H/C swap plus all supporting parts and tune I could also get a the rear diff changed to 4.10s to really wake it up and still be under what a proper FI kit would be.

I grew up in Vernon and still live close. Every chance I get ill take the vette out to the back county roads in Wantage, Sandyston or Branchville. They keep the county roads well maintained. Sometimes when Im out i just want to keep driving west and not look back. One day.

 

You know better than anyone how you intend to drive your car. So keeping it NA is right for you. For now anyway. I shared the same perspective for 20 years.

I love an NA heads & cam C5 with 4.10s because they work soooo well together. I like the 3.90 gear too but love the 4.10. I've run 80k+ miles H/C with 4.10s. It's an awesome gear in a naturally aspirated MN6 with good heads and a high revving cam. The bigger the cam the more the car wants a lower gear. I went back to a 3.42 gear after I grenaded my second 4.10 diff at Island Dragway...last day of the season 2021. I had the 3.42 diff on a shelf so it was a quick and free swap in to get me running again. Forgot how much I hated the 3.42. Four months later it was supercharged.

I grew up in Vernon and Wantage myself. My siblings and nephews are all still up in Vernon and Wantage. All into the hot rod and big turbo diesel truck game. Two of my brothers work for Don at the Blue Arrow. One is a bartender nights, drives a plum purple '65 Chevelle and the other is a builder, drove a dark grey R/T Viper (which he just sold). I've not made it up for a Wednesday "car night" but someday maybe.

Roads up there are a blast to drive being rural and full of curves and twisties. But agreed it's not where you get much use out of 600+ HP. And hitting bears, deer, turkeys and porcupines is always a real threat. I've owned a few bikes that pushed me to my limits when I rode up there, but that was a dumb and different life. I too had that "keep driving west" wander lust growing up in a mountain ski town. So at 24 I hit the road and didn't stop till I got to Los Angeles. Made my way back to NJ 7 years later but didn't go that far north. Only to visit family.

I think you'll love that "track weapon" cam with well ported heads and 4.10s for driving up there. I ran a Texas Speed 228R (228/228/12) before going with a custom ground Cam-Motion 232/236/113+2 and the 228R made torque lower in the band, similar to the track weapon. Which was quite fun up your way. High Point Mountain and hitting the twisties up at Hawks Nest.

You can reach out to Lou at LRB on Lazinski Road in Franklin to see if he will port your heads and get a price. I heard he was really backed up with work but not sure how accurate that is. Top notch machine shop. Lou built my last engine, and did some more port work on my WCCH heads and it's been rock solid since '07.

LRBperformance.com

 

You may have already come across this video. This is the car/individual that the Track Weapon cam was designed for. . I believe he is running an LS6 intake, Cleaned up (not ported) 243 heads, LT Headers and X-pipe, and this cam.

I've also been eyeing this cam for my car. I love the specs for the street/road course, it is made for the powerband that I want to be in. Nice flat Tq curve. Won't get that sexy high HP number, but should feel great.

 

I have come across this video, thank you. I think this cam's specs are interesting to me in that the intake and exhaust duration difference is the same as the stock cam which was 196/208 if I remember. I may be the minority here, but just found that to be interesting. I'm sure there is plenty of reasoning and math behind that. Which I appreciate when trying to make my car go faster!

 

I have also heard great things about LRB. I'll look into getting my heads worked from there. I'm sure we probably have crossed paths with the same people. Small town life. I have been to the Blue Arrow. But for a wedding. Don is a cool guy. I've been meaning to go to cruise nights or the corvette shows there, but sometimes life gets busy. I appreciate the info thank you. Whenever I get around to doing this I'll revive it and post how it went.