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Old Mar 2, 2024 | 08:58 AM
  #21  
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Did you take the radiator shroud off yet?
this is done from under the car, bunch a bolts and a few clips.
spray the area where the condenser sits in the radiator clips with wd40, then carefully tap the condenser up slowly from side to side.
it should just pop off.
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Old Mar 2, 2024 | 09:40 AM
  #22  
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Just the top shroud I didn't realize the bottom had to come off also, BIG Thanks!!!
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Old Mar 3, 2024 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Mitch45
Had the ac system evacuated . I pulled the orifice tube . It doesn't appear to have any metal particles in it . Amazing there can be that much crap in a closed system .
Yow.
Have you decided on a flush methodology yet? You spoke of changing the lines, but I would think they will flush well. I worry more about the evaporator. Maybe a two way flush will do the trick.
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Old May 18, 2024 | 05:14 PM
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The system is back together and is working like new . When I flushed the evaporator , I had hoses and a funnel MacGyver 'ed to the lines . I filled the evap with flush and let it set for a while then hit it with air pressure . In all I put 48oz's thru it . The last that came out was as clear as when it went in.
I got the compresser and condenser kit , new radiator , water pump from RockAuto . There were odds and ends that I got at the local NAPA . The old water pump and radiator were not giving me any problems but since I had it apart .
I haven't totaled the receipts but I am pretty sure the total is around 1100$ . I would not have wanted to see the labor on this project . When I had the system charged the shop owner told me to do everything it would have been around 4000$ . One of the early commenters said it was a job for professionals . It comes down to how good of a mechanic you are and knowing what your limits are . There is not much that I have not done over the years . However I would never want to work as a mechanic .
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Old May 18, 2024 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitch45
One of the early commenters said it was a job for professionals . It comes down to how good of a mechanic you are and knowing what your limits are.
Well exactly. Congratulations on the success of your project, and may the gods of HVAC smile on your blood, sweat, and tears and provide a long, long life for your new compressor.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 03:49 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mitch45
I had a professional replace the compressor on my Chevy Blazer . He didn't put any oil in . burnt the compressor up . I'm not a professional but have installed several ac units in street rods and have had no problems . I will have the system evacuated before I take it a part . I only inquired here to see if anyone had any tips or tricks .
every new compressor I’ve ever replaced has oil already in it.
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 02:02 AM
  #27  
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The box was clearly marked " NO OIL " . That was the only one I've seen that didn't have some oil .
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 10:31 AM
  #28  
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I installed a Four Seasons compressor kit in my 97 last year. I did not replace any lines. worked great. had the shop recharge it.
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Mitch45
In the spring I will have to replace the a/c compressor . I have avoided doing for the last 2 seasons , but the time has come . I am thinking of replacing the refrigerant lines at the same time . Has anyone else done this ? Any problems doing this ? Looking on Rockauto there are 2 seperate lines and not that expensive .
replaced compressor at chevy dealer and got lifetime warranty. Best investment, a/c blows ice cold since. Old one started to leak oil. Paid bout $1300 installed bout 5 years ago. Very happy.
Do it!
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 09:05 PM
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God bless the child who can do his own...who can do his own.
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 06:36 AM
  #31  
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If your compressor failed and did not send metal into the system, Then the compressor can be replaced without replacing any other parts.

When a compressor fails and sends metal into the system, further inspection is required before deciding which parts to replace. Start at the expansion device (TXV or Orifice Tube). If no signs of debris is observed, then replacing the evaporator is a complete waste of time and money. The flow path of refrigerant carries debris into the condensor. The condensor has very fine/small passages that will almost certainly get restricted. It is nearly impossible to flush/clean a modern parallel flow condensor.

Downstream from the condensor is the R/D can (Receiver/Dryer). The R/D will trap metal particles. The R/D also contains the system desiccant. If you replace the condensor, replace the R/D. It is always a good idea to replace the R/D on high mileage/older vehicles. A new R/D will renew the system desiccant and help remove moisture from the system.

Oil balancing needs to happen whenever a compressor is replaced I have attached a document that describes Oil Balancing

My professional advice: Find someone with a Recovery Recycle Recharge machine who knows what they are doing. Without the right tools you will not be happy with the results and you may experience a second compressor failure.
Attached Files
File Type: doc
AC Oil Balance.doc (35.5 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by turbodave231; Feb 17, 2025 at 06:50 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 01:54 PM
  #32  
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Thanks, Dave. That A/C balance document was sweet.
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