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Long story short I have a dyno appointment on Tuesday the 16th. When I drove my car on the trailer I swapped out my new Halltech Killer Bee intake. However, I'm having fitment issues like crazy.
Is there any way that I'm doing this incorrectly? I've already started from the filter to the TB and vise versa. I cut a notch out of the coupler where the new MAF is located trying to get it to push up to the TB to help with clearance issues. My hood is hitting the intake so bad its pushing it up and looks terrible not to mention the stress on the fiberglass. The filter seems too big/bridge could be too long but I could be wrong. I really want this intake to work but so far I'm hardly impressed especially with the price tag it carries. If anybody has any tips or trick I would GREATLY appreciate it. Attached are a few photos to show what I'm dealing with.
Again, all help is appreciated and thank you in advance.
You youngsters better wake up to hot rodding. Do not expect after market parts to fit. Hot rodding you cut,trim,grind
and alter to make a custom fit. Dont complain about the price . You want a custom car, pay the price.
You are not applying decals. Many should just stay stock.
What is keeping the tube from sticking up? Is the bottom of it hitting something?
You could also try to trim the tube itself to move it toward the TB if that helps.
The tube is seemingly not positioned towards the TB enough to allow for the bend to transition over the radiator in the correct spot, that's why I cut a notch out of the coupler to allow it to be pushed more towards the TB but it isn't enough. With that being said I also mocked it up without the coupler and its very, very close but almost impossible.
I don't want to trim the tube just yet seeing how its almost a $700 system but it looks like what it needs.
Originally Posted by hmhaga
Isn't that the Halltech conversion intake, to use with a 102 mm throttle body? It looks like that the transition hose is the wrong length.
Before I bought the intake I called Halltech and actually spoke to the previous owner (Jim Hall) if I remember correctly. From our conversation he sold me on the "C5 LS1/LS6 01-04 KILLER BEE II Conversion System" which I was told to be plug and play besides the new MAF recalibration for the new probe style conversion.
I have done everything in my power to get it to line up, even reversing it.
I appreciate the responses! Please help my tune is tomorrow!!! Haha
According to their website they have 2 Killer Bee kits. I'm sure you ordered the correct one but are you sure you received the correct one? I can't tell from the description on the website what the difference is between the two. I think they are located in Canada so doubtful they are closed for MLK, Jr. Day, I'd call them. Let us know what the outcome is, I'm curious to know. Good Luck!
Last edited by deuceroadster2; Jan 15, 2024 at 10:55 AM.
According to their website they have 2 Killer Bee kits. I'm sure you ordered the correct one but are you sure you received the correct one? I can't tell from the description on the website what the difference is between the two. I think they are located in Canada so doubtful they are closed for MLK, Jr. Day, I'd call them. Let us know what the outcome is, I'm curious to know. Good Luck!
I checked the box when it arrived and it showed the correct part number so I think its correct. I think they may be in TN but they haven't answered the phone.
Whatever the outcome I will let the forum know for sure. I'm frustrated at the least. My plan is to at least get the car tuned and can address it afterwards but it is definitely frustrating building a motor and a dang cold air intake giving me issues.
Mine looks similar but my hood closes better. The response I got from Halltech was that some trimming of the tube may be needed...
I'm not against trimming if it's what's needed however, I don't want to do so if I don't need to and also kind of sucks to have to modify with the cost it carries.
I got in contact with Jim Hall and emailed him photos and now waiting on his response.
He did ask if it has an aftermarket radiator and or motor mounts which it doesn't so apparently if you modify those 2 things it could be an issue.
I'll keep the forum updated and appreciate all input.
My next step would be to trim the rubber coupler even more. Cut it all the way around at the edge where you notched it for that MAF.
The coupler is doing no benefit for you extending past the outer most hose clamp. That extra material may be binding up on the MAF sensor and being stiffer than you want the coupler to be.
It's also a very short area to have a couple bend how you want it so it may be tricky. Plus couplers are cheap.
My next step would be to trim the rubber coupler even more. Cut it all the way around at the edge where you notched it for that MAF.
The coupler is doing no benefit for you extending past the outer most hose clamp. That extra material may be binding up on the MAF sensor and being stiffer than you want the coupler to be.
It's also a very short area to have a couple bend how you want it so it may be tricky. Plus couplers are cheap.
That's a good point. That was something I was thinking too but didn't know how much if any benefit it would yield but makes sense. I almost feel if i trim an 1/8" off both ends of the plastic it would fit much better but man I really didn't want to until I hear from Halltech. Either way somethings got to give and my hood cant be pressed up like this. Thank you Smitty.
You visually checked and confirmed it's on stock motor mounts? On the radiator side, might be worth double checking to make sure it's completely seated in the bottom mounts and top mounts are installed right/flush etc. Kind of a stretch, but that's all I can really think of here. I noticed my intake fitment being off a tiny bit after milling the heads and lowering the intake/TB slightly, but nothing way out of alignment like this.
You visually checked and confirmed it's on stock motor mounts? On the radiator side, might be worth double checking to make sure it's completely seated in the bottom mounts and top mounts are installed right/flush etc. Kind of a stretch, but that's all I can really think of here. I noticed my intake fitment being off a tiny bit after milling the heads and lowering the intake/TB slightly, but nothing way out of alignment like this.
I did. I also went out in this freezing weather to triple check and make sure the radiator/condenser are in the correct locations (in the correct spots in the tabs on the bottom and the slots on the sides). I understand heads being milled changes the geometry but what are we talking 20 thou? Is something so small going to determine if we all can use a cold air intake or not? haha
Something worth noting is when I pulled the coupling off and fit it in what seemed to be the correct location it was almost butted up against the TB completely and also had a pretty good angle going upwards.
Thanks for the help! I just want this thing to work.
I mean in a pinch like this, get the filter/tube assembled, lay it on the radiator where you need it to be then duct tape the tube to the TB...make your own coupler just for the dyno run lol. Use enough tape to be "rigid" and not collapse during a pull.
Then when you have more time, trim the coupler to work.
I mean in a pinch like this, get the filter/tube assembled, lay it on the radiator where you need it to be then duct tape the tube to the TB...make your own coupler just for the dyno run lol. Use enough tape to be "rigid" and not collapse during a pull.
Then when you have more time, trim the coupler to work.
lmfao it's on and assembled now its just hitting the hell out of my hood haha. I'll get the tune done then adjust/cut/ruin it afterwards lol
When the time comes, assemble the tube/filter and "install it" without the coupler. Then you can see the angles/distances you are dealing with. Proceed accordingly with coupler trimming.
When the time comes, assemble the tube/filter and "install it" without the coupler. Then you can see the angles/distances you are dealing with. Proceed accordingly with coupler trimming.
Yeah I've tried that but what I'm seeing that needs to be done is trim the coupler and tube. I really appreciate your advice.