Prop Joe

Deleted

lucky131969

Ya know, I was trying to understand what measurable benefit there was v/s the labor and expense. You could have just been honest and said you did not keep track of your oil consumption before the mod, and there is no definitive way to know if you really made an impact with all that work.. Some people reading your post might want to know if it was worth spending $175 in parts for the conversion..... to delete an $8.35 PCV valve.

I make no apologies for pointing out good practice when working with metal....because contrary to popular belief...there is a right and wrong way. If you don't care, that's ok...its your money..your car.

Sorry this triggered you, and you felt compelled to delete your posts.

Prop Joe

I purchased mine for $64 last year, With bolts and a gasket in GM packaging
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12577297274...3ABFBMgq-Pwexj

Prop Joe

Sure. $65 and I already had it apart to swap in CNC 243/Z06 heads/cam/intake/TB upgrades and install headers. The old intake had oil running out of it. New intake has not been off yet.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-coupe-m6.html
No worries. I wasn't asking for one. Yup its mine. I just figured out how to add to my "ignore" list. Out of respect, I will not post on any more topics you are involved in.
My original pics were posted to make the OP aware that the early blocks have that boss in the block that needs to be removed for the part/valley cover he wanted to install.

Kingtal0n

A PCV valve is a check valve and a flow regulator. If the valley cover has an internal pcv valve then adding one would be unneeded, but it wouldn't hurt anything because check valve'd flow directional functions only when sufficient vacuum is applied in the first place. In other words regulation is differential biased which means kinetic energy requirements for flow are met based on the pressure downstream of some check valve, i.e. check valves tend to add friction and reduce flow but that just means higher pressure after the first check valve which means less regulation from the second.

Now, Pulling a suction on an engine via pcv valve during idle/cruise conditions should be sufficiently achieved via the valve cover of any engine because blow-by is minimal during high intake vacuum condition. In other words the mass of blow-by ejected to the crankcase at idle and cruise is the least it can possibly be, for all other conditions approaching WOT create more and more blow-by while intake vacuum is decreasing. Furthermore the idle and cruise conditions are the most calm conditions an engine could experience, which means the least amount of hurricane whipping frothing of oil is happening. That means the engine oil system should be extremely easily to control , no oil leaking or blowing out issues for this calm condition where the PCV valve is exposed to vacuum on intake suction side. It is unlikely any issues related to oil mess from the engine crankcase are centered around cruise or idle conditions in the first place.

What is far more likely is the WOT condition is blowing oil out of the engine because of high crankcase pressure.
The valley cover adds an additional outlet for crankcase fluid which could help reduce crankcase pressure at wide open throttle - if the restriction orifice and/or PCV valves in the way allow for this type of flow sufficiently.
As an engine ages it may require more crankcase blow-by gas flow. As rings wear they may blow-by more gas. Increasing the crankcase pressure over time further interferes with ring behavior and positive feedback loops even more blow-by.
Therefore the valley cover added could serve as additional relief if used properly. To know whether you are using it properly as with anything else you must measure and collect quantitative data with which to adjust the PCV system properly to the correct pressure range.

The correct pressure range is 1.0"Hg to 3"Hg of Crankcase pressure at wide open throttle. There are high resolution vacuum gauges specifically made for this purpose of measurement of that range.
Here is a digital example



Crankcase pressure measurement and setting is to be done for all engines , any engine wet or dry sump they all have a target pressure range for idle/cruise/WOT. You must set it by measuring yourself, just like fuel pressure, tire pressure, coolant pressure, transmission pressure, boost pressure, etc... all the pressures of the vehicle need to be monitored and controlled more often as performance is increasing.

To understand why this is so important I use example (I remove words and use short phrase many places to save reading time and space that is why some of my writing seems brevity (<-- like that))
A random V8 with valley cover and 2 valve covers and a correctly connected PCV system is going wide open throttle.
The air filter flows 1000CFM @ 1.5"Hg , the engine only consumes 500CFM so the post air filter pressure is near atmospheric (0.1"Hg of pressure drop at 500CFM only).
The line leading from OEM location post air filter to the engine crankcase has friction and the final pressure applied to crankcase is only 0.04"Hg. The crankcase pressure at wide open throttle is being measured around 0.85PSI peak pressure because of this high flow air filter.
With positive pressure the engine is producing large droplets of oil and pushing them into the pcv system. Furthermore oil is being pulled up through the piston rings during intake stroke and at the end of power stroke, oil working its way into ring packs over time, consuming oil is increasing over time gradually. The pressure is forcing high density oil droplets out of the engine and into the pcv system and intake manifold over time, accumulating there as well.
This example is showing us that just having engine PCV Venting is not enough. If the engine is venting pressure then that pressure will carry additional oil into the intake system and into the ring pack, oil consumption, and that pressure will force oil into other seals front main, rear main, valve cover, timing cover, oil pan, etc... all seals gradually accumulate oil and eventually may leak.

Venting is not sufficient because it guarantees high density oil droplets will be forced out of the engine into various crevices over time.

When we measure the crankcase pressure we find it is going positive and say "OOOoooops" like this
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11930508

Notice:
- He measures the crankcase pressure and has a gauge with a warning set for positive crankcase pressure
- He noticed the crankcase pressure was forcing oil out of the engine seals and corrected it with a vacuum signal before it got worse

It doesn't matter how you get the vacuum signal - exhaust driven, electric pump, air filter pressure, kinetic energy scavenging, etc...
All that matters is that you measured and produced a negative pressure inside the crankcase to control the oil and keep it inside the engine and protect ring function.

In our example we have air filter driven which is OEM. We notice the air filter is flowing too many CFM for the engine demand so we contact AFE or K&N Or whoever we trust and say "I need a air filter that will flow around (engine flow rate peak minus ~12%) about 450 to 500CFM @ 1.5"Hg pressure drop" And they sent it to us Or we just try filters or block our filter until we achieve this pressure drop.
Now with post filter pressure drop @ 1.5"Hg after friction this applied 1.25"Hg to the crankcase and now at wide open throttle crankcase pressure is managed at around 0.95"Hg which is fine for wet sump at this level.
We can now remove the valley cover and make the engine more simple with less hoses and fewer holes because this vacuum is sufficiently achieved at the valve cover on the passenger side for most LS engines of this level.

1. measure
2. set the pressure properly

Mr. Black

Ohhh KT has arrived on scene!